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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 04-07-2012, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rctrucker2 View Post
Thank you for the great information RC Phreak, that explains it very well. Woody you are spot on. I was totally confused on this. I thought they were talking about the square metal spacers and no wonder I could not see any reason to seal them. Now, looking at the diff housing and black insert, I can totally understand what you are saying and how it would help.
Where do you apply the RVT to the black insert? It looks like maybe around the barrel or under the collar of the insert. What seems to work best? I assume that either CA or Blue RVT is permanent so the insert is glued to the plastic housing. Would there ever be a reason to want to take the insert out of the plastic housing? Sorry for all the questions, I know I am over thinking this but I want to learn to do it right the first time.
Thank you for your help RC Phreak and Woody, you guys are great contributors and have been very helpful to all us newbies.
CA is pretty much permanent, RTV you might be able to get out. I don't think the diff housing and insert is very expensive though, so I wouldn't worry too much about that.

So I popped the insert out. I would also take the O-ring out so you dont accidently get CA or whatever on the o-ring. Then put a good covering coat of RTV around the outside of the barrel(underneath the hex top) then push it all the way in the diff housing and then wipe off all the excess both in the inside of the diff and on the outside where the insert comes out( I use cotton swabs). You should see(I like blue cause you can see it good) where the hex head fits flush inside the diff a light ring of RTV around the hex, thats how I know I got a good seal. Make sure your insert is pushed all the way in, I like to stick like the butt-end of an exacto knife and give it a good firm push. With RTV you have a bit of time to get it in place.

Now if you use CA ( I have only read, so I don't have first hand experience)
Because CA dries so fast and you want that insert in flush, it seems people have the best luck by putting the insert in first with no CA. The kinda wick the glue around the seam of the hex and the edge of the diff housing. I assume you would want a good thin CA that would flow down in the seam. You don't want any glue(or RTV) on top, If you do, you might not be able to get the pin in after you put the shim back. It would probably wear down and be ok after a bit, but your diff may feel a little rough until id does so I would try to avoid it if possible.

Hope this helps,

Woody
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:21 PM
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I know that the diff pin issue had been resolved and I thought the pins I received from Horizon were the new ones! Yes my truck has seen the shelf more than the track for sure, but life has gotten in the way!! I have been slowly upgrading her. I'm just shocked and bummed about my pins!! I have and only run her at the track which is an hour away so I don't get to drive her much, but I love the truck she is my favorite of all my RC's by far!!!
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by RC_Woody View Post
CA is pretty much permanent, RTV you might be able to get out. I don't think the diff housing and insert is very expensive though, so I wouldn't worry too much about that.

So I popped the insert out. I would also take the O-ring out so you dont accidently get CA or whatever on the o-ring. Then put a good covering coat of RTV around the outside of the barrel(underneath the hex top) then push it all the way in the diff housing and then wipe off all the excess both in the inside of the diff and on the outside where the insert comes out( I use cotton swabs). You should see(I like blue cause you can see it good) where the hex head fits flush inside the diff a light ring of RTV around the hex, thats how I know I got a good seal. Make sure your insert is pushed all the way in, I like to stick like the butt-end of an exacto knife and give it a good firm push. With RTV you have a bit of time to get it in place.

Now if you use CA ( I have only read, so I don't have first hand experience)
Because CA dries so fast and you want that insert in flush, it seems people have the best luck by putting the insert in first with no CA. The kinda wick the glue around the seam of the hex and the edge of the diff housing. I assume you would want a good thin CA that would flow down in the seam. You don't want any glue(or RTV) on top, If you do, you might not be able to get the pin in after you put the shim back. It would probably wear down and be ok after a bit, but your diff may feel a little rough until id does so I would try to avoid it if possible.

Hope this helps,

Woody

I've been using black grease in that space with no issues for over a year now.. but if you were having issues iMO some clear silicone caulk would be ideal. Not only will it keep a perfect seal but you can remove it, if need be. For that matter if you have some shoogoo for your bodys a touch of that and presto done.. no leaky again.
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Old 04-08-2012, 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Throwindirt View Post
Ready to upgrade my RTR esc & motor but not sure what to get was thinking of keeping the esc and pairing it with the castle 1410 but now I'm leaning towards the new viper copperhead system w/ the 5150. those of you using this motor how would you gear it for a med sized track thats technical with a straightaway thats around 80ft long. Thanks for your help Bob
The 5150kv Copperhead is a pretty fast setup. Allot of power and speed, and it can pull a pretty big pinion. I have found that unless you are running a track that has a very wide open layout, you are more than likely to behest off with a 13t pinion.

The 4500kv motor geared a tooth higher will net you about the same overall speed, yet be a little smoother at lower throttle speeds. The 5150 is good, it is just allot of snap to try and drive smooth.
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Old 04-08-2012, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
I've been using black grease in that space with no issues for over a year now.. but if you were having issues iMO some clear silicone caulk would be ideal. Not only will it keep a perfect seal but you can remove it, if need be. For that matter if you have some shoogoo for your bodys a touch of that and presto done.. no leaky again.
I just rebuilt my rear and middle with ca gluing the inserts and in the front I tried out just putting grease around the insert. After about 20-30 packs I will check to see if the grease worked as well as the glue. If it does, then that is easier to deal with when building.
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Old 04-08-2012, 05:42 AM
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Originally Posted by oldschoolnewb View Post
I just rebuilt my rear and middle with ca gluing the inserts and in the front I tried out just putting grease around the insert. After about 20-30 packs I will check to see if the grease worked as well as the glue. If it does, then that is easier to deal with when building.
Keep in mind w/ the grease you'll reset it, when cleaning and inspecting the diffs during rebuilds, that is if you don't just use a new diff housing. I think losi should sell those inserts seperate, as they wear and that is where you get most of the wobble in the diffs. But normally diff fluid should be swapped several times through a year with an avg racer, I know some who swap every other week or so. I'm not that anal though ;P Or maybe I'm just too lazy, however you want to look at it.
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Old 04-08-2012, 06:01 AM
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Originally Posted by RC_Woody View Post
CA is pretty much permanent,

Woody
CA glue wear's out over time. (from heat/friction) I glued my inserts back in Aug'11, rebuilt my diffs yesterday for the 1st time in about 8 months, and they just poped right out.
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Old 04-08-2012, 06:34 AM
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I ordered a BCE Chassis off Ebay Tuesday.Had it in the mail Thursday.Got it installed and wow what a difference.I was a bit skeptical but after comparing it to my stock chassis,the stocker was very tweaked(Im the 4th owner of this truck).I didnt feel a need to get one after winning the local winter points series without it.The truck feels more planted and steers a bit better.It was a tad nose heavy but worked out perfectly as I could down side jumps without having the stab the brakes.Now that I have a feel for it Ill start making changes to make it better.Great product!
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Old 04-08-2012, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by FLHX1550 View Post
The 5150kv Copperhead is a pretty fast setup. Allot of power and speed, and it can pull a pretty big pinion. I have found that unless you are running a track that has a very wide open layout, you are more than likely to behest off with a 13t pinion.

The 4500kv motor geared a tooth higher will net you about the same overall speed, yet be a little smoother at lower throttle speeds. The 5150 is good, it is just allot of snap to try and drive smooth.
Thankx FLHX1550 maybe I'll get the 4500kv and use a 14t pinion as our track has alot of tight turns and only one straightaway that your wideopen .Will the 4500kv give me enough bottom end to get me over a good sized triple with a short runup distance and witch of the two will give me lower running temps or are they pretty equal? Thankx again Bob
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Old 04-08-2012, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
Keep in mind w/ the grease you'll reset it, when cleaning and inspecting the diffs during rebuilds, that is if you don't just use a new diff housing. I think losi should sell those inserts seperate, as they wear and that is where you get most of the wobble in the diffs. But normally diff fluid should be swapped several times through a year with an avg racer, I know some who swap every other week or so. I'm not that anal though ;P Or maybe I'm just too lazy, however you want to look at it.
I think manufacturing tolerances play a role on whether one guy can get away with grease and others can not. However after experiencing this myself, I think probably most of the people who did use grease and it leaked, probably wasn't from the insert, it was probably from not screwing down/sealing the top of the diff housing properly.

Originally Posted by Feint Motion View Post
CA glue wear's out over time. (from heat/friction) I glued my inserts back in Aug'11, rebuilt my diffs yesterday for the 1st time in about 8 months, and they just poped right out.
Yeah you are probably right, but I would never expect to get something back out that I CA'd and it still be in one piece . Sure heat will deteriorate the glue so will probably soaking in some sort of solvent. I would be scared to use solvent because of what it might do to the plastic housing.

-Woody
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by RC_Woody View Post
I think manufacturing tolerances play a role on whether one guy can get away with grease and others can not. However after experiencing this myself, I think probably most of the people who did use grease and it leaked, probably wasn't from the insert, it was probably from not screwing down/sealing the top of the diff housing properly.



Yeah you are probably right, but I would never expect to get something back out that I CA'd and it still be in one piece . Sure heat will deteriorate the glue so will probably soaking in some sort of solvent. I would be scared to use solvent because of what it might do to the plastic housing.

-Woody
a good tip i learned is always replace oring and gasket every time you rebuild diffs. no matter how many packs you run. never over tighten the screws as well. no leaks for sure!
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:24 AM
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[QUOTE=Panda-PR;10572312]I would go lower in that front diff to start with.
Here is JQ's The Guide

Thanks for all the great input guys! Looking forward to making some adjustments and heading to the track again.

That guide is great!

Joe
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:51 AM
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this question has probally been answered. which chassis would be better bce or the losi flex tuned chassis. raced my scte yesterday for first time and the chassis is tweeked.
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ww29 View Post
this question has probally been answered. which chassis would be better bce or the losi flex tuned chassis. raced my scte yesterday for first time and the chassis is tweeked.


They are both very good options, as well as a hole bunch of othres. People are having success with those as well as the Bump chassis, SNR Graphite chassis, King Headz chassis and I'm sure I'm missing a few. Personally I've ran both the SNR chassis and now the BCE chassis. Both of them handle very similarly and like them both. With the BCE I'm running the stock short chassis brace, with the SNR chassis I ran the longer RC8 chassis brace.
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Old 04-08-2012, 11:00 AM
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not trying to open a flood gate up. just wanting to get a chassis that wont tweek easily
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