Krafcik

iTrader: (70)

next dumb question - how do you bleed it? What keeps the fluid from escaping out of the hole in the shock collar if you remove the middle of the bladder?

BmainStar

iTrader: (1)

. Classic !!!

chucko

iTrader: (3)

the hole in the cap is below the top of the gasket. when you bleed it you fill it to the top put the cap on holding it at around 45 degrees. slowly screw the cap on at the angle with the hole pointed to the top with the shock compressed all the way in.. do that until holding the shock level to one another and compress both and see if the rebound the same.. if they dont do it over tell they match in equal rebound..

photobrat

iTrader: (33)

Those of you using the Attebery diff inserts, do you still need the small shim that goes between the insert and the sun gear with this upgrade?

Krafcik

iTrader: (70)

you are talking about the super tiny little shim right? I'd also like to know.

Jake C6R

iTrader: (8)

Took my SCTE out to the track today for the first runs and had a blast! I ran 4 batteries through it and could not keep the grin off my face! Coming from nitro this is my first electric - I usually run my 8ight-T 2.0 at that track, so I am sill learning that electric is a whole new world! Instant torque is awesome! Landed badly only a few times over the triples but most were pretty good for being new to this truck.

Man it was so much fun, this truck is so forgiving and adjust in the air. Can't make big adjustments in the air like my Truggy but pretty good!

I only broke a rear bumper support, everything else was flawless! Not ready to give up on nitro but it's nice to have both! I think this truck was a great purchase, and the Tuning kit with the RX8 and Pro4 4600 make it fly! Thanks everyone for the tips as I continue to figure this electric stuff out!

oldschoolnewb

I have his stuff in my diffs and run the shims. they are just there to keep the gear mesh a little better. The diff parts don't change the clearances, so why not run them?

oldschoolnewb

My scte had this problem, then one day I tried putting the stock rear chassis brace back on. Suddenly the car had all kinds of on power steering. This is just in case you are running a long chassis brace.

My set up last time at the track was very close to identical to the Dakota Phend set up sheet on the losi web site. Only change was the RC Shox two stage shock pistons with 32.5 front fluid and 30 rear fluid.

The car turned around corners on power very effortlessly with this set up, the Jammin cnc aluminum chassis, and the stock short rear chassis brace.

Next time out I am upping the shock fluids, I am pretty sure I can get away with it with the increased rebound dampening of the two stage pistons. I am trying 40 front and 35 rear with silver front spring and purple rear. I am also going to the middle thickness sway bar in the rear.

Panda-PR

iTrader: (4)

I would go lower in that front diff to start with.
Here is JQ's The Guide

http://jq-products.com/the-news/43-t.../160-the-guide

lowroad

iTrader: (79)

Chris said yes when I asked him the same question. Use the shims.

N8racer

I just got my new hd lightened out drives and ripped into my front diff to start. I decided to clean out the grease and put 5,5,3 in and I noticed my replacement diff pins from horizon with only 8 packs on them were super worn!! Badly gouged!! Like they just sent me the soft pins to replace my original soft pins WTF?? Ryan what could have caused that??? I was so mad I have not opened my other diffs but I suspect I replaced all those pins for nothing!! I know I need Chris pins but thought Losi/Horizon took care of the soft pins guess I got another bad batch??? My truck was bought the second week it was released by the way!!

Krafcik

iTrader: (70)

Ok - rookie question here. I ordered the HA shock bodies and I noticed threads on the tops on bottom. Obviously the top is where the shock cap threads on, but what are the threads on the bottom for? on the original blue shock bodies, there is a black piece on the bottom, but this doesn't seem to be removable.

Thanks for the help

elex300

iTrader: (106)

You can unscrew the black thing. Thats how you replace the orings.

Krafcik

iTrader: (70)

Got it, wrench helped

ScottKelly911

iTrader: (9)

The diff pin issue has long since been resolved. Call up Losi and have them send you replacements. Or do better and go out, buy a set of the NEW mold gears and use the ones that come in the pack with them. Only 8 packs on the replacement diff pins from a first release of the truck? Why haven't you been driving it? That's like over a year old. The diff pin issue is nolonger an issue and hasn't been for a LONG time. Also, with the very first release (mine is also a first release as I got the truck the first week it came out), they probably didn't immediately realize there was an issue and may have thought your issue was solitary and yes just sent you more softies. Or...more likely, you received the INTERIM pins that were given out that were better than the original soft pins, but still not as good as the later hardened PRODUCTION pins. You probably just got the ones that were supposed to hold you over until the new ones came out. Yes, it sux, but seriously, you've been holding onto the truck for that long and haven't been driving it. I know life sometimes gets in the way, so you probably have very valid reasons for it, but you're obviously way out of the loop, so don't be mad about it, it's been fixed, just email or call them and get what you need. Good Luck and do yourself a favor, GO OUT AND ENJOY YOUR TRUCK!!!!!