RC_Woody

yeah I did skip a few things, but early on in my research I picked the rx8, the Pro 4 4000( I run on a smaller tight track) and the Savox 1258TG servo.

So I didn't pay as close attention to what servo I wanted to run. I have seen that people have seemed to have good luck with a variety of servo's. I think the main thing is to a servo probably in the 150+ oz torque range(definately debatable). You have to have enough to turn these beasts. I think the Savox has 166 oz torque just as a reference. I think there is so many good servo's at different price ranges, that basically figure out what you want to pay for a servo and go searching.

The only thing I have seen is some had reported that if you running a power hungry servo(Savox seems to be the pop. one that had the problem) and a spektrum type radio plus a MMP that you may need a glitch buster/BEC. Not totally sure on what the actually combination is, but that is what I remember seeing in my reading.

Hope that helps.

Woody

RC_Woody

ok Ryan I gave you props and edited my orig. post lol.

Woody

Briguy

iTrader: (125)

http://www.avidrc.com/flexkit/?kit=327&kitname=TEN-SCTE

DoogieLee

iTrader: (42)

I hope this isnt a dumb question, or its already been covered...but when measuring shock length...where are the measurement points? Center to center on the mounting holes? Kinda hard to do those accurately with calipers.
Thanks

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Yes the measurements are center to center of the mounting screws. Yes it is kind of hard to do it super accurate but you can get close enough.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

Not a props kind of thing, more of a easier than saying run this setup except change this, this, and this, lol.

DoogieLee

iTrader: (42)

Thanks man, after doing some looking around, I found the Losi shock matching tool, looks like i'll be ordering one of them as soon as the TiNi hinge pins and shock shafts come in stock.
Thanks for the reply

RC_Woody

yeah I guess my jest was hard to read from my post. I have been meaning to look at your setup and when I did, its very similar to Lane's, I think both will get your in the ball park. However one thing I did notice for people copying others setup is Lane's has 2.5 toe-in in the rear. Correct me if I'm wrong but you can only do that if you have the Adjustable Rear Hinge Pin Holder Set [LOSB4113].

so you are right your setup is probably more out of the box friendly.

Might be useful to post if you want to do Dunford setup you at min:

Losi Piston Pack [LOSB2909]
Losi Rear Shock Spring Tuning Set [LOSB2963]
Losi Front Shock Spring Tuning Set [LOSB2959]
Losi Silicone Differential Fluid (5,000cs) [LOSA5280]
Losi Silicone Differential Fluid (3,000cs) [LOSA5279]
Losi Certified Shock Fluid (30wt) [LOSA5224] (dont need if you don't plan on re-doing your oil anytime soon - stock is 30wt)
Losi Silicone Shock Oil (27.5wt) [LOSA5214]
Sway Bars(can use stock, but I believe they need to be switched to opposite ends)
Edit: Sway Bars LOSB2222 is required to get a 1.8mm rear and 2.0mm front.

So Basically a Piston Pack, front and rear springs, sway bar kit, and your fluids and you can do exactly Dunford setup from box stock.

Lanes I believe you also need:

Adjustable Rear Hinge Pin Holder Set [LOSB4113] ( to get the rear 2.5 toe in)
1 more thing of diff fluid (7,000cs) for the front diff

But I agree with you Ryan.

BlackStarRacing

iTrader: (40)

gook look on the info!!!

cwilkinson

iTrader: (3)

Hacker I pre ordered the new shock shafts and hinge pins.. most the retailers pretty accurate with an instock date of April 20th? I've got a slightly bent rear shock shaft (long story but my fault lol) just curious cause I can limp on that for a few weeks

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Ryan's setup should have 3 deg of antisquat. You need the rear adjustable pivots for that as well. (stock is 2).

I would say fronts are a little more optional but they are a little lighter for those looking to save weigth. Rears we do us the adjustments more. both come in the TLR tuned kit!

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

Went to the track today to test out the xtreme racing carbon chassis. When i put the chassis together, there was no instructions as to what kind of chassis brace to run, so i opted to not run a front or rear brace due to the design tieing the front middle and rear of the truck with the upper chassis section(felt plenty stiff enough). I weighed the truck in the shop on their shipping scale, and the truck weighed 5lbs 7oz with battery and wheels mounted super light. with the body on it, it weighed 5lbs 14oz. I did notice that the chassis wasnt balanced and was light on the battery side, so i added 1oz between the front and rear.

On the track the truck felt very light, responsive and nimble, and also more twitchy. I did manage to run my fastest lap ever, a 33.3. I also managed to break the top upper chassis piece( nosedived the huge tripple)

so after that, I decided to put the front chassi brace, and also the short rear stock brace. After that, no more problems, and the truck felt great. i just got home and decided to dremel the broken side of the top deck(xtreme racing sell a short topdeck anyways)

So, buyer beware: use the front chassi brace if you buy the extreme racing chassis. Other that that, its rock solid ( cased, and nose-dived the tripples without any other chassis issues)

If you are looking to get as light as possible, then this chassis is for you!

Chase1472

iTrader: (76)

Whats the thickness of that top brace? that chassis looks badass though

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

2mm.. they also sell a 2.5mm top deck, and other various top decks for tuning.
I am 100% sure it woud not have broken if i were running the front chassis brace at the start.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

That is probably pretty accurate...they are supposed to be on their way or going out first part of next week via air. Then they have to be QA'd and put in a location.