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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 03-29-2012, 06:10 PM
  #31846  
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Originally Posted by rifraf View Post
Does anyone know where I can find a losi scte roller,that is in stock and accepts paypal? I can't find one anywhere..LOL
1-928-453-7111 give em a call I think they have one or 2
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:35 PM
  #31847  
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Originally Posted by rifraf View Post
Does anyone know where I can find a losi scte roller,that is in stock and accepts paypal? I can't find one anywhere..LOL
I saw Tacoma RC Raceway up in Tacoma, WA had one behind the counter last Saturday bet they would be willing to work something out with you 253-565-1935
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:40 PM
  #31848  
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Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
Diff shims can be bought from mcmaster for dirt cheap in mass quantities and in varied thicknesses.
Yeah, but it's more fun to buy stuff from Gary at GMK - he's a nice guy, has well thought out products and even better names for them!

PLUS, you're helping support a fellow racer!!!
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:40 PM
  #31849  
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Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post



Are you not going to run side mud guards?
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:40 PM
  #31850  
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Great post!! You did your homework!!!
This post should be on the first page.
And yes, Casper and Ryan are awesome!

Originally Posted by RC_Woody View Post
Total Lurker here.... went through every page and read most posts.
Curious, I finally log in with my account and it says there is only 796 pages, but as guest there is 2122.

Great information guys,
I got a lot of great info.

But this is what I took away off the top of my head:
IMOP must have buys:
Spring kits(for Orange and black springs)
TLR tuning kit - best price ratio (budget: buy rear shk twr)
Hardened lightened out drives (replace only after stock is worn)

There were some early problems with diff pins(that Chris Atterberry had a solution) but since have been fixed. J

There was a running change on the diff gears, run what you have until they NEED to be replaced, old ones are fine.

Setup: Go to Losi site, pick one and try, Lanes seems to be the most popular.

Diff weights: 553 still seems to be the most recommended starting point. (753, and 332 closely follow)

Seal your metal inserts in the diff cup - RTV, CA, Grease, pick one

Diff rebuild: Take your time, make sure everything is seating properly, dont over fill, may be a little notchy when first put together due to square nuts not quite seated, but should smooth out. Metal shim under shim gear does wear out, Chris Atterberry, makes what most use to replace. Most replace with diff oil, but few are still using grease.

Out drives: they can wobble a little and its ok - There are a couple aftermarket center diff braces that have a second bearing to reduce some wobble.

Great Chassis debate - Run your stock for a while, then pick one of the aftermarket chassis's - personal pref. on which one. TLR, BCE, BUMP, Jammin, Xtreme, King Headz, etc, Just read up and see which one you would like to try

Chassis braces: seems to vary based on track, and which aftermarket chassis you choose.

Sway bars: Make sure where they are attach on the bulk heads that they can move freely, those set screws should not be overly tight and should allow the bars to move.

Great Motor debate: Winner still seems to be pro4 4600(13-16 tooth pinion most popular for this motor), but there were some great alternatives mentioned.

Pinion to use: varies greatly on which motor. So make sure to include what motor and spur gear you are using when asking what pinion

Great ESC debate: Tekin rx8 and MMP still seems to be the top choices, but again some other good alternatives were offered

Batteries: Turnigy nano-tech 65-130c 6000-6600 seems to be the most recommended, but shipping times could take a while and cost just as much as other good batteries once you factor in faster shipping. There were some other good recommendations on local batteries at a decent price, search...

Emulsion shocks: Seems to be the rage, but there are a few out there that like the bladders still.

Shock oils: seems to have a very narrow range, 27.5 - 32.5 seems to be the most recommended.

Droop: Full droop(screws not touching chassis) also popular 2 turns out on shocks ends for even more droop.

Front end is going to have some slop you may be able to get rid of some of it by upgrading your posts to the harden ones, Aftermarket Bell crank, and new harden balls new Rod links, to varying success. In the end you are still going to have some slop still, Just the way it is. Run it the way it is for a season then think about reducing some slop for next season(depending on how much you run)

Tires: just like any other car, it all depends on the track. However the stock eclipse tires, are not bad for out of the box.

Wheels: Losi stock still most recommended, however AKA just came out for SCTE.

Well take that for what its worth from a newb, I bought a new SCTE at the beginning of march and have applied the knowledge I learned here. I took my car out to the track for the first time last weekend, and I had a blast driving it, It was good enough to just drive and get around the track and had a blast! I didn't have worry about setup quite yet. Now all the fine tuning begins.

Thank you all that contributed, specially Casper and Hacker7. You guys really did answer a lot of the questions asked, and kept this thread together. There are quite a few people on this thread that I value there opinion after seeing how much it has helped others.

(whew longer than I thought post!!!, back to lurker status...)

-Woody
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Old 03-29-2012, 06:56 PM
  #31851  
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Originally Posted by RC_Woody View Post
Total Lurker here.... went through every page and read most posts.
Curious, I finally log in with my account and it says there is only 796 pages, but as guest there is 2122.

Great information guys,
I got a lot of great info.

But this is what I took away off the top of my head:
IMOP must have buys:
Spring kits(for Orange and black springs)
TLR tuning kit - best price ratio (budget: buy rear shk twr)
Hardened lightened out drives (replace only after stock is worn)

There were some early problems with diff pins(that Chris Atterberry had a solution) but since have been fixed.

There was a running change on the diff gears, run what you have until they NEED to be replaced, old ones are fine.

Setup: Go to Losi site, pick one and try, Lanes seems to be the most popular.

Diff weights: 553 still seems to be the most recommended starting point. (753, and 332 closely follow)

Seal your metal inserts in the diff cup - RTV, CA, Grease, pick one

Diff rebuild: Take your time, make sure everything is seating properly, dont over fill, may be a little notchy when first put together due to square nuts not quite seated, but should smooth out. Metal shim under shim gear does wear out, Chris Atterberry, makes what most use to replace. Most replace with diff oil, but few are still using grease.

Out drives: they can wobble a little and its ok - There are a couple aftermarket center diff braces that have a second bearing to reduce some wobble.

Great Chassis debate - Run your stock for a while, then pick one of the aftermarket chassis's - personal pref. on which one. TLR, BCE, BUMP, Jammin, Xtreme, King Headz, etc, Just read up and see which one you would like to try

Chassis braces: seems to vary based on track, and which aftermarket chassis you choose.

Sway bars: Make sure where they are attach on the bulk heads that they can move freely, those set screws should not be overly tight and should allow the bars to move.

Great Motor debate: Winner still seems to be pro4 4600(13-16 tooth pinion most popular for this motor), but there were some great alternatives mentioned.

Pinion to use: varies greatly on which motor. So make sure to include what motor and spur gear you are using when asking what pinion

Great ESC debate: Tekin rx8 and MMP still seems to be the top choices, but again some other good alternatives were offered

Batteries: Turnigy nano-tech 65-130c 6000-6600 seems to be the most recommended, but shipping times could take a while and cost just as much as other good batteries once you factor in faster shipping. There were some other good recommendations on local batteries at a decent price, search...

Emulsion shocks: Seems to be the rage, but there are a few out there that like the bladders still.

Shock oils: seems to have a very narrow range, 27.5 - 32.5 seems to be the most recommended.

Droop: Full droop(screws not touching chassis) also popular 2 turns out on shocks ends for even more droop.

Front end is going to have some slop you may be able to get rid of some of it by upgrading your posts to the harden ones, Aftermarket Bell crank, and new harden balls new Rod links, to varying success. In the end you are still going to have some slop still, Just the way it is. Run it the way it is for a season then think about reducing some slop for next season(depending on how much you run)

Tires: just like any other car, it all depends on the track. However the stock eclipse tires, are not bad for out of the box.

Wheels: Losi stock still most recommended, however AKA just came out for SCTE.

Well take that for what its worth from a newb, I bought a new SCTE at the beginning of march and have applied the knowledge I learned here. I took my car out to the track for the first time last weekend, and I had a blast driving it, It was good enough to just drive and get around the track and had a blast! I didn't have worry about setup quite yet. Now all the fine tuning begins.

Thank you all that contributed, specially Casper and Hacker7. You guys really did answer a lot of the questions asked, and kept this thread together. There are quite a few people on this thread that I value there opinion after seeing how much it has helped others.

(whew longer than I thought post!!!, back to lurker status...)

-Woody
Great post. Looks like you got most all of it to me. Glad you are having fun with your SCTE!
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Old 03-29-2012, 07:13 PM
  #31852  
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Originally Posted by Kevin_M View Post
Are you not going to run side mud guards?
The sides are not bent upwards, so the mudguards dont fit like they do on an aluinum chassis
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Old 03-29-2012, 09:57 PM
  #31853  
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Ya Woody!!!! A + on Your report!!Summed it up very well!!!!!
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Old 03-30-2012, 05:24 AM
  #31854  
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when will the lightend outdrives be back in stock ?
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Old 03-30-2012, 05:46 AM
  #31855  
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Default Tekin pro 4 or Reedy Sonic

Which one is better for losi scte? the tekin pro4 or the reedy 550 size motor paired with novak gtb2 esc?
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Old 03-30-2012, 05:59 AM
  #31856  
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Originally Posted by zonked View Post
Which one is better for losi scte? the tekin pro4 or the reedy 550 size motor paired with novak gtb2 esc?
The pro4 or similar 540 4-pole motor will be most peoples recommendation
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by zonked View Post
Which one is better for losi scte? the tekin pro4 or the reedy 550 size motor paired with novak gtb2 esc?
I believe that the novaks can have issues running the tekin pro 4 unless they have been updated with the x drive tech.
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:10 AM
  #31858  
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Originally Posted by lowroad View Post
I love your products and will be buying these.
Originally Posted by cwilkinson View Post
I saw Tacoma RC Raceway up in Tacoma, WA had one behind the counter last Saturday bet they would be willing to work something out with you 253-565-1935
Thank you folks! One of the things I like the best about having started GMK Supply has been the opportunity to expand the circles of racers I have been able to meet - even if many of them have been electronic meetings.

I know you can probably relate to this Chris, as a fellow geezer (I turn 60 in July - how the hell did THAT happen???). I have been racing 'smaller than full size' cars virtually my entire life - I started with slot cars in 1964, and was building static models even before that. As time goes by age makes it harder to keep up with the kids (treachery can only carry me so far...) but as my meager driving skills diminish, I find myself appreciating even more the fun of learning something new all the time, and the relationships I have with other people who have the same interest and passion. I started GMK while I was at the 26 year mark in a career at IBM, and being able to scratch an entreprenurial itch while being a small cog in a very large corporate machine was another real blessing I received through these hobbies. I still really get a bang out of coming up with new ideas, or in some cases, just finding a better or cheaper way to do something. I guess what I'm saying is all this is an important part of what makes my life blessed, and I do thank all of those folks who allow me to continue to learn and grow and have fun by supporting my little enterprise. I have had the opportunity to talk with a number of other RC micropreneurs like myself, and I find they often express the same feelings to me. All of us appreciate the support of our fellow racers!
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:19 AM
  #31859  
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
The pro4 or similar 540 4-pole motor will be most peoples recommendation
does it have a 550 size motor?
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by symmetricon View Post
I believe that the novaks can have issues running the tekin pro 4 unless they have been updated with the x drive tech.
issues like what?
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