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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 03-05-2012, 07:48 AM
  #30526  
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Originally Posted by Cult Racing
Dude you are truely an idiot. BCE has been making chassis's for how long? Im not talking about the specific chassis for the scte, im talking about products even for other cars. KH has made lots of quality parts for the 8ights. Do you not see where I'm coming from or no? For example I would rather buy a chassis thats from a company thats been making quality parts for a while, LIKE TLR BCE and KH, then this Xtreme company I've never heard of till the end of last year, not trying to bash them but thats me. Plus i wouldnt recommend a cf chassis for a sc.
FYI , Xtreme has been around for quite some time and they make VERY nice C/F parts for many different R/Cs .

Bruce Sayre , the owner is a stand up guy who gives great customer service/support .

Not sure about that chassis but his other parts are top notch IMO ..........
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:50 AM
  #30527  
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Originally Posted by hacker07
Guys, if you are gonna just scream at each other, please do it via PM.

I raced at the JBRL this weekend and am happy to report that my truck was 55 grams lighter than the most competitive SC10 4x4 this weekend. So much for all the reports of how much lighter it is...made me smile.

LOL yeah , cause they are all adding weight trying to get it to handle better
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:00 AM
  #30528  
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Originally Posted by gawith0413
YES!!!, I had problems with the alum collars on the stock bodies, but not on the HA ones!
Thanks! Future new shock parts decided then.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Chad Smith
Ok cool, thanks for the quick reply!
In the gear cases, there is a metal sleeve/insert that you can remove and glue to help take some of the wobble out (and also help prevent leakage). Some use RTV sealant, some use CA (this sets too fast for me... I don't like it), but I would recommend JB Weld epoxy given it's strength and set time (lets you easily wipe up excess).

Also, the hardened outdrives help a bit too. I believe their tolerances are a bit higher/accurate for what should be on the truck.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:24 AM
  #30530  
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Originally Posted by hacker07
Guys, if you are gonna just scream at each other, please do it via PM.
I think we should all step back and realize that the majority of what all people write is opinion, and in some cases experience, and even less cases fact.

Here's a primer:

"X store has Y part in stock!"

Chances are this is a fact.

"X chassis sucks!"

Chances are this is opinion, and not enough information to justify a response. Move on.

"X chassis sucks I would never run it!"

Chances are this fact (for that person), but still not enough information to base your own opinion/purchase on. No need to respond.

It's going to get really annoying if everyone needs to disclaimer every statement with 'in my opinion/IMO'.

You can always counter someone elses negative experience with a positive of your own, or vice versa.

I know this all sounds so simple. That's the point. Let's get back to basics and a bit of courtesy...
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:29 AM
  #30531  
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Originally Posted by goehm
In the gear cases, there is a metal sleeve/insert that you can remove and glue to help take some of the wobble out (and also help prevent leakage). Some use RTV sealant, some use CA (this sets too fast for me... I don't like it), but I would recommend JB Weld epoxy given it's strength and set time (lets you easily wipe up excess).

Also, the hardened outdrives help a bit too. I believe their tolerances are a bit higher/accurate for what should be on the truck.
Thanks for the tip, I will give it a try.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:34 AM
  #30532  
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Originally Posted by dtr
Hi guys,
Has anyone tried the alum collars with HA shock bodies? Do they fit the threads better then on the stock ones?
just got them myself, they went on fine.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:43 AM
  #30533  
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Originally Posted by omenwolf
just got them myself, they went on fine.
[pic]
Looks really nice!
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:54 AM
  #30534  
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Think I am going to try to run a 5.5t 550 Novak instead of my 4.5t 550 Novak to get a long run time. Where should I start on the pinion? This will be running on a large outdoor track. Running the 4.5t on a small indoor track now. The 4.5t is just not going to make a 10 minute main that is required on the outdoor track.
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:04 AM
  #30535  
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Originally Posted by nitro0619
Im gonna try a set of the jc hazzard wheels on my scte.....i know they will make the truck a tad wider but should work well otherwise
i had them on my truck when i first got it.. made the truck turn like crap.. stock offset is the way to go.. in my opinion..
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:17 AM
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Hey Ryan,
How did you get 3 rear toe on your setup on the losi website for an indoor track?
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by gawith0413
Hey Ryan,
How did you get 3 rear toe on your setup on the losi website for an indoor track?
are you asking how to get 3* toe.. im sure ryan has the TLR tuning kit.. has adjustablility. i think its the 0 inserts on the rear blocks..
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:22 AM
  #30538  
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911
I used the plastic one when I was running my SNR Chassis. I feel the plastic still gives you enough torsional flex that you get good traction through the turns, while it stiffens the chassis up front to rear. Fits perfect on the stock chassis too and what my friend is using.

I ran the SNR CF chassis twice a week for 8 months. It worked VERY well for me. Didn't break. I've been running the BCE chassis for about 1 1/2 months, bent it yesterday. Now, I will admittedly say, it was my fault because the screws that hold the front of the Diff housing to the chassis were backing out and acted as a big shovel and lever and bent the front of my chassis. But I have been very happy with the BCE chassis (went back to stock rear brace when using this chassis). Bummed I bent it and will try to bend it back. I was also very happy with the SNR chassis, it was just time to replace it from wear after running it as much as I did. I'm sure I coulda probably put another 4 month's into it easily, but the BCE chassis became available at a price that was too good to refuse.



Are you using the stock rear chassis brace on the stock chassis or are you talking about a plastic rc8 rear brace ?
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:47 AM
  #30539  
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Originally Posted by SC-Racer
Think I am going to try to run a 5.5t 550 Novak instead of my 4.5t 550 Novak to get a long run time. Where should I start on the pinion? This will be running on a large outdoor track. Running the 4.5t on a small indoor track now. The 4.5t is just not going to make a 10 minute main that is required on the outdoor track.
I was running a 15t on my 5.5 tekin and it ran for a good 15 min with a 6000mah 65c 2s @ 160-170 degrees

Originally Posted by dtr
Looks really nice!
Thanx
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by omenwolf
I was running a 15t on my 5.5 tekin and it ran for a good 15 min with a 6000mah 65c 2s @ 160-170 degrees
Thanks. I hate to have to go to a 5.5 but the 4.5 just doesn't give me the runtime no matter what I do.
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