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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 02-08-2012, 12:15 PM
  #29026  
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Originally Posted by MX304 View Post
That's a bit of a loaded question. Sometimes there is no difference, it's just that some people call the same material by a different name. Sometimes there is actually a difference. Carbon fiber is a woven material impregnated with resin. Graphite parts are sometimes graphite powder that is mixed with resin, pressed and cured, then milled to shape. There is also graphite impregnated plastic that is sometimes referred to as graphite. Most of the time you can tell by looking at the parts in question. If you see the woven pattern it's carbon fiber, or a composite of some sort with carbon fiber as an outside layer. If it has no weave, but looks almost like a part that was painted flat black, then it's powdered graphite, or graphite / plastic.
Thanks for clearing that up. Always wondered but never asked. And thanks to SEF as well for his detailed information, greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:12 PM
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I got bored today and did some GPS testing with my Losi, I always wondered how fast it was.
Castle MMP with a 1410 3800kv
Start power at high
0 timing
16t pinion
High Velocity 6000mah 60c 2s
some old Proline Snipers to use as road tires

It topped out at 39.9!
I was pretty surprised
so I threw 10 degrees timing in it, speed dropped by 1.5 mph and with a full 20 degrees timing it was topping out at 38.9

I know speed doesnt necessarily win races, but like I said, I was curious as to just how fast it really was.
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by AgroAMG View Post
I'm probably the only person to have ever broken this piece. Once this happens even if you replace the plastic insert, it just continues to break the new plastic inserts as the aluminum isn't there to provide support anymore.

This might fix it (but make your insert permanent). Remove the plastic insert, and use some 120 to 200 grit sand paper to scuff up the aluminum around the broken area. Mix up some JBWeld and put it in the aluminum cavity. Push the insert back into the cavity (JBWeld will ooze out). Form a bit of the oozed JBWeld around the aluminum area that broke to give some structure.

Let it dry, and then trim any excess/sand it some to give it some form and make it look pretty. JBWeld is pretty good a being formed using a file/dremel/sandpaper.

At least it might save you some money, or make a real nice backup part for you.

Also - as another poster mentioned - replace your pin as it might be bent, adding to the issue.
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by "Smiley" View Post
NITROALM/Bill- Will do. The BCE Chassis is more stable, and provides more traction. Its much better than some of the other chassis out for the scte. I'l get my setup posted tonight.

dmwilson09- No problem. I'll post my setup tonight.
Bout time.. lol.. i know you was scared of me havin your setup this weekend.. hahah.. jk.. ur truck was railed.. some peeps were talkin sayin they think you are running 3s packs.. i said.. i didnt see a huge speed difference.. but i did see a huge setup difference.. benefits of the home track i suppose.. lol
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by TheRevolution View Post
Plastic is fine, it would be great though if you could purchase it separately instead of having to buy the whole front bumper set! Especially since I have t-bone bumpers on mine.
FYI that the new T-Bone Racing bumper for TEN-SCTE doesnt mount to that at all anymore. I had many issues, after speaking with the owner a lot on this, they enhanced it and it looks like their new version is way more stable and you shouldnt really break their center brace piece that was in the original one. Also, no attaching to that tiny piece, so you can probably leave it out. I would probably get a new one and just screw it in so that it is there, but not doing anything
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:15 PM
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The pin after this initial break was replaced. After putting a brand new insert in and a brand new hinge pin, it came out on the second lap.

I have a replacement on it's way and will use the new 1mm longer TiNi coated hinge pins which should drastically reduce the chance of this happening again.
Originally Posted by goehm View Post
This might fix it (but make your insert permanent). Remove the plastic insert, and use some 120 to 200 grit sand paper to scuff up the aluminum around the broken area. Mix up some JBWeld and put it in the aluminum cavity. Push the insert back into the cavity (JBWeld will ooze out). Form a bit of the oozed JBWeld around the aluminum area that broke to give some structure.

Let it dry, and then trim any excess/sand it some to give it some form and make it look pretty. JBWeld is pretty good a being formed using a file/dremel/sandpaper.

At least it might save you some money, or make a real nice backup part for you.

Also - as another poster mentioned - replace your pin as it might be bent, adding to the issue.
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:24 PM
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I didn't know t-bone was making a redesigned bumper for the scte, I'll check it out, thanks!
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mdhyams View Post
I asked this question several pages back but no answer. I've been looking but can't find exactly what I'm looking for. What kind of shock setups are everyone using. Springs, Pistons, Bladders or bladders with foams or Immulsion setup, vented caps or not, oil, rebound.


Thanks
I'm running the arron lane setup for mounting location's, Black springs Front/Orange springs Rear, with 27.5wt Losi shock oil all the way around, I try to build them with no rebound, I leave the bladder in.


Works great for a rough, loose outdoor track, I may try differen't weight shock oil's this spring.
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Hello All, I just wanted to make you all aware of some new parts that got announced today and will be in stock shortly. I will give the description and possibly what was altered to make them better.

TLR4004 - New 7075 HA servo saver tube (tolerances are much improved at the bearing fitments)

http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...ProdId=TLR4004

TLR5063/TLR5064 - Fr/Rr titanium nitride shock shafts

http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...ProdId=TLR5063
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...ProdId=TLR5064

TLR6080 - Titanium Nitride hinge pins (made the inner hinge pins 1mm longer to aid with the angles we are using with these adjustable pivot supports so they do not pull out any longer)

http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...ProdId=TLR6080

If you have any questions, please let me know...just an FYI though.



Sweet to have some more new option parts for this truck, I think im going to order the nitride coated shock shafts to make them even smoother then they already are. I've yet to have any issues with the Hinge pins so I'll have to pass on those.
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TheRevolution View Post
I didn't know t-bone was making a redesigned bumper for the scte, I'll check it out, thanks!
Been using the t-bone bumper for a month or so and it is great.
And it protects the front of the chassis to...
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:49 PM
  #29036  
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Bar-Kit-Ten-T

How to do you know what sizes are in this sway bar set?
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:55 PM
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3 for the front 3 for the back plus the ones that came with the truck. heavy med soft three sizes
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:56 PM
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how does the adjusting of the droop screws affect the handling of the truck

Thanks in advance
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Old 02-08-2012, 03:08 PM
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The servo saver tube will be on the must have list as it will take a lot of the slop out of the steering system.
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Old 02-08-2012, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
The servo saver tube will be on the must have list as it will take a lot of the slop out of the steering system.
Amazing how the little things like this excite me so much. At 33 years old, it reminds me slightly of what it was like to be a kid and want something so bad.

Oh that and the HA ball ends that are never in stock :P
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