Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
Tech Master
iTrader: (38)

That's a bit of a loaded question. Sometimes there is no difference, it's just that some people call the same material by a different name. Sometimes there is actually a difference. Carbon fiber is a woven material impregnated with resin. Graphite parts are sometimes graphite powder that is mixed with resin, pressed and cured, then milled to shape. There is also graphite impregnated plastic that is sometimes referred to as graphite. Most of the time you can tell by looking at the parts in question. If you see the woven pattern it's carbon fiber, or a composite of some sort with carbon fiber as an outside layer. If it has no weave, but looks almost like a part that was painted flat black, then it's powdered graphite, or graphite / plastic.
Tech Master
iTrader: (42)

I got bored today and did some GPS testing with my Losi, I always wondered how fast it was.
Castle MMP with a 1410 3800kv
Start power at high
0 timing
16t pinion
High Velocity 6000mah 60c 2s
some old Proline Snipers to use as road tires
It topped out at 39.9!
I was pretty surprised
so I threw 10 degrees timing in it, speed dropped by 1.5 mph and with a full 20 degrees timing it was topping out at 38.9
I know speed doesnt necessarily win races, but like I said, I was curious as to just how fast it really was.
Castle MMP with a 1410 3800kv
Start power at high
0 timing
16t pinion
High Velocity 6000mah 60c 2s
some old Proline Snipers to use as road tires
It topped out at 39.9!
I was pretty surprised
so I threw 10 degrees timing in it, speed dropped by 1.5 mph and with a full 20 degrees timing it was topping out at 38.9
I know speed doesnt necessarily win races, but like I said, I was curious as to just how fast it really was.

Let it dry, and then trim any excess/sand it some to give it some form and make it look pretty. JBWeld is pretty good a being formed using a file/dremel/sandpaper.
At least it might save you some money, or make a real nice backup part for you.
Also - as another poster mentioned - replace your pin as it might be bent, adding to the issue.

Bout time.. lol.. i know you was scared of me havin your setup this weekend.. hahah.. jk.. ur truck was railed.. some peeps were talkin sayin they think you are running 3s packs.. i said.. i didnt see a huge speed difference.. but i did see a huge setup difference.. benefits of the home track i suppose.. lol
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)

FYI that the new T-Bone Racing bumper for TEN-SCTE doesnt mount to that at all anymore. I had many issues, after speaking with the owner a lot on this, they enhanced it and it looks like their new version is way more stable and you shouldnt really break their center brace piece that was in the original one. Also, no attaching to that tiny piece, so you can probably leave it out. I would probably get a new one and just screw it in so that it is there, but not doing anything
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)

The pin after this initial break was replaced. After putting a brand new insert in and a brand new hinge pin, it came out on the second lap.
I have a replacement on it's way and will use the new 1mm longer TiNi coated hinge pins which should drastically reduce the chance of this happening again.
I have a replacement on it's way and will use the new 1mm longer TiNi coated hinge pins which should drastically reduce the chance of this happening again.
This might fix it (but make your insert permanent). Remove the plastic insert, and use some 120 to 200 grit sand paper to scuff up the aluminum around the broken area. Mix up some JBWeld and put it in the aluminum cavity. Push the insert back into the cavity (JBWeld will ooze out). Form a bit of the oozed JBWeld around the aluminum area that broke to give some structure.
Let it dry, and then trim any excess/sand it some to give it some form and make it look pretty. JBWeld is pretty good a being formed using a file/dremel/sandpaper.
At least it might save you some money, or make a real nice backup part for you.
Also - as another poster mentioned - replace your pin as it might be bent, adding to the issue.
Let it dry, and then trim any excess/sand it some to give it some form and make it look pretty. JBWeld is pretty good a being formed using a file/dremel/sandpaper.
At least it might save you some money, or make a real nice backup part for you.
Also - as another poster mentioned - replace your pin as it might be bent, adding to the issue.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (41)

I didn't know t-bone was making a redesigned bumper for the scte, I'll check it out, thanks!

I asked this question several pages back but no answer. I've been looking but can't find exactly what I'm looking for. What kind of shock setups are everyone using. Springs, Pistons, Bladders or bladders with foams or Immulsion setup, vented caps or not, oil, rebound.
Thanks
Thanks
Works great for a rough, loose outdoor track, I may try differen't weight shock oil's this spring.

Hello All, I just wanted to make you all aware of some new parts that got announced today and will be in stock shortly. I will give the description and possibly what was altered to make them better.
TLR4004 - New 7075 HA servo saver tube (tolerances are much improved at the bearing fitments)
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...ProdId=TLR4004
TLR5063/TLR5064 - Fr/Rr titanium nitride shock shafts
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...ProdId=TLR5063
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...ProdId=TLR5064
TLR6080 - Titanium Nitride hinge pins (made the inner hinge pins 1mm longer to aid with the angles we are using with these adjustable pivot supports so they do not pull out any longer)
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...ProdId=TLR6080
If you have any questions, please let me know...just an FYI though.
TLR4004 - New 7075 HA servo saver tube (tolerances are much improved at the bearing fitments)
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...ProdId=TLR4004
TLR5063/TLR5064 - Fr/Rr titanium nitride shock shafts
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...ProdId=TLR5063
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...ProdId=TLR5064
TLR6080 - Titanium Nitride hinge pins (made the inner hinge pins 1mm longer to aid with the angles we are using with these adjustable pivot supports so they do not pull out any longer)
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...ProdId=TLR6080
If you have any questions, please let me know...just an FYI though.
Sweet to have some more new option parts for this truck, I think im going to order the nitride coated shock shafts to make them even smoother then they already are. I've yet to have any issues with the Hinge pins so I'll have to pass on those.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Bar-Kit-Ten-T
How to do you know what sizes are in this sway bar set?
How to do you know what sizes are in this sway bar set?

3 for the front 3 for the back plus the ones that came with the truck. heavy med soft three sizes

how does the adjusting of the droop screws affect the handling of the truck
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance

The servo saver tube will be on the must have list as it will take a lot of the slop out of the steering system.

Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)

Oh that and the HA ball ends that are never in stock :P