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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 02-02-2012, 12:03 PM
  #28651  
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Originally Posted by Aluma View Post
try lowering your steering maximum on your radio...I noticed that too, but once I backed that down it works perfect box stock. I have mine to 95percent and some of my buddies have theirs down to 75percent(different radio).
With my steering on max, I ended up breaking the arm on the servo saver off. Hitec HS7955TG is a crazy powerful servo. I replaced it, set the center as perfectly as I could, then lowered to 93% and it reaches both R/L perfectly without unwanted stress.
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by AgroAMG View Post
With my steering on max, I ended up breaking the arm on the servo saver off. Hitec HS7955TG is a crazy powerful servo. I replaced it, set the center as perfectly as I could, then lowered to 93% and it reaches both R/L perfectly without unwanted stress.
you should use subtrim to center out the steering rack as best you can, then use L/R EPA to set the maximum throw in each direction
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by AgroAMG View Post
They have relux for SCTE, but they are crud at the moment. Everyone who runs them they report their wheels cracking, in as little as their first pack. You can see lots of posts about it on RCTECH here, and if you look at them on amainhobbies you see the reviews are junk. I love the look of them, but JC needs to fix this.

DE Racing wheels have worked great for me on the SCTE. Losi work well too. I personally like the look without the beadlocks too.
Ugh I have a set of the rulux sitting hare, and I'm afraid to glue them up. I agree ain't nothing wrong with the stockers once you take off the silly trim ring.
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Asharus View Post
you should use subtrim to center out the steering rack as best you can, then use L/R EPA to set the maximum throw in each direction
I remember seeing the L/R EPA, I'll look at that. I have so many options on the Sanwa MT-4, I need to read the book...

I did install the STRC aluminum steering rack, which of course would take way more stress than the plastic, but i think it is overkill and probably unnecessary, since when it is set properly, you shouldnt really stress the components much anyhow.

Thanks for the 411.
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BDRMBULLY View Post
maybe your "diffing out" time to change them fluids.
that shouldn't be the case as I just did the diffs like 2 weeks ago and have only ran the car maybe three different times since then
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by NitroLuver View Post
Raced my car last night and I have two problems.

1 huge problem I've always had is the rear of my car just wants to slide.I try hitting a little brake before entering a high speed corner and it doesn't help and if I try to just roll through the corner my truck slides out. I lose so much time off the straight because of it.

2. For some reason last night my car just felt slow/ actually was physically slow I didn't have any acceleration and down the straight I didn't have any top speed...First time this have ever happened to me.

Current Setup:
Stock Everything ie. Chassis,shock towers,sway bars.
Shock Setup 35F Black Spring, 30 Rear Orange Spring
Shocks in middle of a-arm both front and rear
Front shock inner hole on tower rear shocks stood all the way up
unsure of ride height(forgot to check it)
camber whatever stock is
diffs 5F 3C 3R
tekin rx8/4600kv pro 4 geared 13/40
Jconcepts barcodes (orange)

Track is med/high bite indoor clay(WC/RC)

I would start with moving the Frt shock out on the tower and the arm, Rr shock middle on tower and middle on arm. I would recommend getting the sway bar kit and run 2.0 in front and 1.8 in back (stock is opposite). Try running the ride height around 27mm without the body
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by lowroad View Post
Well, it's a wear part, so, yes, you are kind of over reacting. It's no different than scrapes on the bottom of the chassis, at least to me. They don't last forever. Replace every couple, maybe two three years? Not bad.

If it really bugs you, you can back off the droop screws all the way, or drill and tap the chassis for 4/40 droop screws. You can also glue some little kevlar or even rubber pads in there I guess. Personally, I couldn't care less about it. I think of the guys that used to put tail guards on their skateboards so they wouldn't get scracthed up!

Unprotected Droop plates on the chassis as they wear in Cause inconsistent Droop #'s and Requires Constant Adjusting to compensating for the Screw's digging in to the chassis.

Yes for the most part we run Full droop on our SCTE's but when it comes to ANY chassis, I Highly suggest a Screw VS bare aluminum.
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Old 02-02-2012, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Integra View Post
Unprotected Droop plates on the chassis as they wear in Cause inconsistent Droop #'s and Requires Constant Adjusting to compensating for the Screw's digging in to the chassis.

Yes for the most part we run Full droop on our SCTE's but when it comes to ANY chassis, I Highly suggest a Screw VS bare aluminum.
meh, to each his own. There are plenty of things you can do, as I mentioned, if it bothers you. I f you are worried about "constantly" adjusting for fractions of a millimeter in droop as the chassis wears, you are a far better racer than I.
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Old 02-02-2012, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by NitroLuver View Post

Track is med/high bite indoor clay(WC/RC)
i run at wcrc, i run Ryan Dunford's setup and swap the sway bars to match the track.

also run barcodes in gold
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by lowroad View Post
Ugh I have a set of the rulux sitting hare, and I'm afraid to glue them up. I agree ain't nothing wrong with the stockers once you take off the silly trim ring.
I have a set of rulux that i use for racing, I have about 20-30 packs through them and no cracks at all.

And what do mean silly beads, you have to look good going around the track too sometimes
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:18 PM
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Just mounted up my new HA shock bodies, they are SWEET and the HA shock collars threaded right on! No crazy wrenching involved as compared to the debauchle that occured when I tried to put them on the blue bodies! Nice and CHEAP upgrade, way to go Losi on this one! Great bang for the buck!
Looks good too!
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Old 02-02-2012, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Integra View Post
Unprotected Droop plates on the chassis as they wear in Cause inconsistent Droop #'s and Requires Constant Adjusting to compensating for the Screw's digging in to the chassis.

Yes for the most part we run Full droop on our SCTE's but when it comes to ANY chassis, I Highly suggest a Screw VS bare aluminum.
Enlighten me on this screw vs going with bare aluminum (how it is now). How can I do what you suggest? Any pics? Any part numbers, sizes, etc. ?
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Old 02-02-2012, 04:12 PM
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I just bought 2 new 6600 nano techs. Does know if there is a "Break In Period" for these? If so what do I need to do?
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Old 02-02-2012, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Gas Rat Racin View Post
I just bought 2 new 6600 nano techs. Does know if there is a "Break In Period" for these? If so what do I need to do?
You got 'em? Lucky dog. I've been backordered on those since like 12/26/11.. No they are good to go right off the bat. balance em out and charge em up.
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Old 02-02-2012, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by AgroAMG View Post
You got 'em? Lucky dog. I've been backordered on those since like 12/26/11.. No they are good to go right off the bat. balance em out and charge em up.
Great, Thanks
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