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Old 01-20-2012, 09:49 PM
  #28051  
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I ordered gears from amain were old ones which are just fine I just munched some trying to push the envelope on some wore out pins I now have awhole set of extra built diffs which make it nice encase of emergency... I wouldn't stress about getting new gears I would just keep an eye on your pins so you dont get those gears bound up tighter then a nuns ____ fill in the blank haha
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Old 01-20-2012, 09:57 PM
  #28052  
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guys I got a question about building turnbuckles for my stadium truck, I just got these titanium turn buckles, I was putting them together and I thought when you put each ball cup on and turn them in opposite direction it would screw them on but when I try this one side will loosen it's self off..

Am i suppose to thread them all the way on first one side at a time then back them out to get the right camber and such?

I've just never put them together I've always just adjusted them while on the truck. I mean its 3 parts so im guesing they have to be threaded all the way on then backed out?
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Old 01-20-2012, 11:21 PM
  #28053  
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Originally Posted by namewasdallas
guys I got a question about building turnbuckles for my stadium truck, I just got these titanium turn buckles, I was putting them together and I thought when you put each ball cup on and turn them in opposite direction it would screw them on but when I try this one side will loosen it's self off..

Am i suppose to thread them all the way on first one side at a time then back them out to get the right camber and such?

I've just never put them together I've always just adjusted them while on the truck. I mean its 3 parts so im guesing they have to be threaded all the way on then backed out?
They are just like all the other turnbuckles, one side is right hand threads and the other side is left handed. That way when you turn the turnbuckle (after they are installed) it tightens both and the other way loosens both at the same time.
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Old 01-21-2012, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by cwilkinson
I ordered gears from amain were old ones which are just fine I just munched some trying to push the envelope on some wore out pins I now have awhole set of extra built diffs which make it nice encase of emergency... I wouldn't stress about getting new gears I would just keep an eye on your pins so you dont get those gears bound up tighter then a nuns ____ fill in the blank haha
ball of yarn
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Old 01-21-2012, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by goehm
ball of yarn
You win one million dollars I need your routing number and account number please
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Old 01-21-2012, 06:56 AM
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Checked my center diff the other day and re-filled the fluid. When I tighten down the screws it locks up the gears. I don't have any more seals so I can't double up and I tried to cut another seal out and put it in but it just blows the fluid out. I decided to pack it full of grease for the race today and wait for a new cup and seal to re-build it. I see this happening to allot of people, and my diff is built perfectly. I have built a ton of diffs and don't usually run into this problem. It probably wouldn't leak if I could tighten it all the way down.
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Old 01-21-2012, 07:12 AM
  #28057  
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Originally Posted by LosiMadMan
Checked my center diff the other day and re-filled the fluid. When I tighten down the screws it locks up the gears. I don't have any more seals so I can't double up and I tried to cut another seal out and put it in but it just blows the fluid out. I decided to pack it full of grease for the race today and wait for a new cup and seal to re-build it. I see this happening to allot of people, and my diff is built perfectly. I have built a ton of diffs and don't usually run into this problem. It probably wouldn't leak if I could tighten it all the way down.
Try a new diff case.
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Old 01-21-2012, 08:02 AM
  #28058  
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Originally Posted by LosiMadMan
Checked my center diff the other day and re-filled the fluid. When I tighten down the screws it locks up the gears. I don't have any more seals so I can't double up and I tried to cut another seal out and put it in but it just blows the fluid out. I decided to pack it full of grease for the race today and wait for a new cup and seal to re-build it. I see this happening to allot of people, and my diff is built perfectly. I have built a ton of diffs and don't usually run into this problem. It probably wouldn't leak if I could tighten it all the way down.
I have also had this issue. Going to try a new case tomorrow. Hope this will help. I will keep you update on any fixes as well.

Also kind of a newbie question but which motor combo seems to have success. I typically run outdoor loose dusty tracks. I have a CC MMP and 3800 installed. Have a Trinity Monster Horse 5.5 as backup.

Also acquired a Tekin Pro4 and RX8. Any comments would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-21-2012, 08:33 AM
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Those of you with tight diff problems try this first. Take the pins and cross them. Put them on a flat surface. They should both sit flat without any rocking. If the pin was not cut deep enough they can cause the problem you're describing.

If you bought my pins and are having this type of problem please let me know and I will replace them.

Thanks,


Chris
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Old 01-21-2012, 09:15 AM
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Will a ARR SCTE purchased and drop shipped directly from Horizon around the first of the year have the lastest revisions or should I pull the center diff out to seal it better? Motor will be here next week, never been run.
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Old 01-21-2012, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by TheRevolution
Ok it must be just me doing something wrong, sure, whatever. Does anybody have a answer to the question: how can I get a the new diff gears and not the old diff gears? I'm not sure exactly why I cannot get a answer to this question!
I think your tactic of killing us with kindness is definitely going to help get you an answer faster.
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Old 01-21-2012, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by LosiMadMan
Checked my center diff the other day and re-filled the fluid. When I tighten down the screws it locks up the gears. I don't have any more seals so I can't double up and I tried to cut another seal out and put it in but it just blows the fluid out. I decided to pack it full of grease for the race today and wait for a new cup and seal to re-build it. I see this happening to allot of people, and my diff is built perfectly. I have built a ton of diffs and don't usually run into this problem. It probably wouldn't leak if I could tighten it all the way down.
I had this problem with my center diff last week when I rebuilt them and since it was my 1st time doing a diff I disassembled and reassembled it 10+ times thinking I was doing something wrong. Ultimately adding a 2nd seal fixed it so I'm wondering if there is something off on the center diff cases that are going out? My truck does have the updated gears and I started to think that maybe the updated gears are a little beefier and the case needs to widened a tiny bit for them to spin freely? Not an expert just uneducated guessing.
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Old 01-21-2012, 09:34 AM
  #28063  
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Originally Posted by goehm
This link might help:
http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=new+diff+ge...www.rctech.net

-Sent from my iPhone
That's epic lol!
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Old 01-21-2012, 09:42 AM
  #28064  
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Originally Posted by Steve.
Will a ARR SCTE purchased and drop shipped directly from Horizon around the first of the year have the lastest revisions or should I pull the center diff out to seal it better? Motor will be here next week, never been run.
Yes, everything that has been out for 4-5 months has the updates to them.

Originally Posted by LosiMadMan
Checked my center diff the other day and re-filled the fluid. When I tighten down the screws it locks up the gears. I don't have any more seals so I can't double up and I tried to cut another seal out and put it in but it just blows the fluid out. I decided to pack it full of grease for the race today and wait for a new cup and seal to re-build it. I see this happening to allot of people, and my diff is built perfectly. I have built a ton of diffs and don't usually run into this problem. It probably wouldn't leak if I could tighten it all the way down.
The likely culprit is one of the little square metal pieces that are on the end of the diff pin that slide into the slots. Sometimes those are much tighter than we realize and dont get pushed down all of the way. Put the diff assembly together and then while holding the opposite side of each, push those metal squares down and do this to all four. Then press the center where the pins cross and the action should be free with all four planet gears moving. Assemble, put in car and run...good to go.
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Old 01-21-2012, 09:53 AM
  #28065  
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Thanks for the help I will try this when rebuilding them tomorrow.
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