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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 01-04-2012, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by AgroAMG View Post
I know as soon as I disassemble my differentials I'll have tons more knowledge. I think the exploded view will help with that. However, I havent done it YET but plan on it. When you are re-assembling do you put a little bit of RTV on the blue gasket as pictured in this image? Just a thin later applied around, then the diff cases tightened up? I wonder if that makes the gasket usable in the future the next time you take apart the diff?

Even having to use rtv sealant seems wrong. the purpose of the gasket is to seal it. i wonder if this is a common problem if Horizon is looking at this and possibly some changes. I also saw double gaskets, seems the wrong long term fix too.

I did NOT use any rtv sealand on the blue gasket. You use the sealant on the metal inserts that sit in the hex on the plastic housing. The o-ring and washer are supposed to be the seal but for some people it manages to leak out, ME being one of those people. Make sure when doing this your inserts are fully seated otherwise your diff will not be smooth or it may even lock. Which was my first mistake using CA glue. On my first diff i had to buy a whole new housing but for the other 2 i re used everything.. I sealed every diff even although the center diff was the only one i noticed leaking. I would recommend this step if you are switching out your grease for fluid.
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Old 01-04-2012, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by myl3s91 View Post
I did NOT use any rtv sealand on the blue gasket. You use the sealant on the metal inserts that sit in the hex on the plastic housing. The o-ring and washer are supposed to be the seal but for some people it manages to leak out, ME being one of those people. Make sure when doing this your inserts are fully seated otherwise your diff will not be smooth or it may even lock. Which was my first mistake using CA glue. On my first diff i had to buy a whole new housing but for the other 2 i re used everything.. I sealed every diff even although the center diff was the only one i noticed leaking. I would recommend this step if you are switching out your grease for fluid.
Okay, yeah, I am not looking at the exploded view, but as I disassemble my diff's I'm sure I'll realize what you mean. I have RTV sealant, I'll use it anyhow just to be sure. Gonna pick up some more acetone on the way home and some electronic motor cleaner spray as I dont know how difficult it may be to get rid of the losi grease.
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Old 01-04-2012, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by LosiMadMan View Post
So this may be the problem. The timing screen does not load in The Vegas software. When I click on it it is blank. I have to work tonight but I will try again in the morning. I have the latest software and updates applied to the speed control.
Put the esc into C1 or C2, hit apply, go to the "timing" tab.
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Old 01-04-2012, 03:55 PM
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seems like alot of people are having problems with their diffs leaking...i see some of you are RTVing your inserts in. im unsure if it cures hard or rubbery but i know it would seal good but im not sure on how well it would keep the inserts from popping back in. i have glued mine in once about 6 months ago and havent had to do it again. i highly recomend using the team associated green slim on the outdrives befor you slide them in and then on the o-rings and both sides of the gasket. tighten everything up and it should be perfect. also make sure the screw holes are not stripped out on your diff case or it will also not seal properly.
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Old 01-04-2012, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Littlejohn Dsgn View Post
One other thing I lost a pin that goes behind the wheel hex on Amain it looks like to get the pins you also get the wheel hex ... is there another brand that works thats just the pins?

Also the pins that are in the diff that the gears are on those only come with the gear set too correct?
Ive used a pin from a slash 4x4. I believe u can buy them in a pack from traxxas
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Old 01-04-2012, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by myl3s91 View Post
Today i rebuilt my center and rear diff, I sealed them with rtv sealant and let it dry over night. After assembling everything today they are so smooth! Success finally! Lol. Waiting for the sealant to cure on the front diff, then ill put it back together and my truck will be ready to go!! For everyone debating on doing this, use RTV sealant. Now i CANT WAIT for my bce chassis!!!!!!!!!!!
Just for future reference that rtv should set in an hours time so u dont have to wait so long to reassemble. I use the same stuff to assemble engines and transmissions and i never let them sit overnight before running them usually. No leaks......
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Old 01-04-2012, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by AgroAMG View Post
Okay, yeah, I am not looking at the exploded view, but as I disassemble my diff's I'm sure I'll realize what you mean. I have RTV sealant, I'll use it anyhow just to be sure. Gonna pick up some more acetone on the way home and some electronic motor cleaner spray as I dont know how difficult it may be to get rid of the losi grease.
I would get Mineral Spirits for the grease.......It breaks it down Fast....
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:03 PM
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Mineral spirits, or kerosene will break down grease faster.
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Old 01-04-2012, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Feint Motion View Post
I don't know what motor to run, halp
Awesome looking truck man, For motor choices you got a few, Tekin Pro4's, Tenshock 401 or Sensored 411 , Castle 3800 or the Revtech 3800kv or 4800kv. I would deff go with a sensored motor I like the feel to them more then my castle.

Another thing I noticed is your running aluminum front and rear braces on that BCE chassis. From what I've herd that is going to my make that truck way to stiff. From reading the thread I think they said to run the plastic braces so it has some flex.
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Old 01-04-2012, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by namewasdallas View Post
Awesome looking truck man, For motor choices you got a few, Tekin Pro4's, Tenshock 401 or Sensored 411 , Castle 3800 or the Revtech 3800kv or 4800kv. I would deff go with a sensored motor I like the feel to them more then my castle.

Another thing I noticed is your running aluminum front and rear braces on that BCE chassis. From what I've herd that is going to my make that truck way to stiff. From reading the thread I think they said to run the plastic braces so it has some flex.
Hey thanks,
Im going to go for the Pro4 4600kv. Should be a beast on my local track. I never ran sensored before, so this should be like a breath of fresh air.

Re guarding the chassis braces, I agree, its way too stiff. I have all the chassis braces made for this truck, so ill mix and match and see whats good for my local track.
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Old 01-04-2012, 06:49 PM
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Quick question if anyone can help I would appreciate it. Just got and RTR for xmas, it comes with the 4 pole 550 2800 motor, my ? is am I better off running this on 3s? I just race for fun at local tracks...second part of the question is if I would want to put in a tekin 4600 would the esc that came with the truck work with that motor? thanks in advance
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Old 01-04-2012, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
Put the esc into C1 or C2, hit apply, go to the "timing" tab.
So the default under C1 was 10. Would this cause 170* temps?
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Old 01-04-2012, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 93Cobra View Post
Quick question if anyone can help I would appreciate it. Just got and RTR for xmas, it comes with the 4 pole 550 2800 motor, my ? is am I better off running this on 3s? I just race for fun at local tracks...second part of the question is if I would want to put in a tekin 4600 would the esc that came with the truck work with that motor? thanks in advance
I believe u can run that motor on 3s just have to gear properly. Yes the tekin pro 4 will work fine w that esc
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Old 01-04-2012, 07:18 PM
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What kind of run time we talking about with the scte?
please list motor and battery size?
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Old 01-04-2012, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by kahuna2793 View Post
What kind of run time we talking about with the scte?
please list motor and battery size?
With my Orion 6500 I can get close to 15min, but I'm having a temp problem right now so my motor might not be super efficient. Pro4 4600, RX8.
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