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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 01-02-2012, 03:30 PM
  #26881  
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Originally Posted by LosiMadMan
It would be nice if my iPhone didn't load all the setup sheets blank.
Get the adobe reader app. It shows the sheets properly.
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by namewasdallas
I just redid my diff's last week and there smooth as butter.

When you take them apart to clean them. Here's how they go back together. Take the out-drivesr push them into the Diff case, place the rubber O ring over the inside shaft. and press it firmly into the case. Add the washers then the Sun Gear and make sure it goes as far onto the out-drive as possibly and sits evenly.
-When dropping the spider gears in make sure you have the shims on the the square blocks that seat in the Diff case there's 4 total, If your missing one or don't place them where they go it will make the gears in the Diff not aligned and feel gritty. Also make sure the notch in the middle of that bar where the 2 sets cross each other gets locked into place, Then push them down to seat them with the Sun gear at the bottom.

I noticed if you test them dry by hand and spin it some to check to see if it works it actually kick's up the gears and throws them out of alignment, So after u fill up the case, I rim mine out with diff fluid press the set of gears down in.

Here's where stuff could go wrong if you pick up the side of the diff with all the gears they could some how move enough to miss align so I leave that side sitting on the out-drive and take the side with the paper gasket and place it on top of the other side of the diff. Add some diff fluid to the back of the sun gear to make it stick so it doesn't fall off while trying to do this... It took me awhile to figure that little trick out...

Make sure to clean the bearings that hold the diff as well, Motor spray then Re-oil them

If you can understand what im saying your Diff's should run smooth.
you forgot a step....put the pin in under the sun gears after the washer.
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:39 PM
  #26883  
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Originally Posted by 10sctrel0v3r
you forgot a step....put the pin in under the sun gears after the washer.
I just figured that was common sense, even though the entire diff rebuild is common sense to me. So Guys dont forget the Pin to Lock on the Sun Gears in or youll have serious carnage
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by namewasdallas
I just figured that was common sense, even though the entire diff rebuild is common sense to me. So Guys dont forget the Pin to Lock on the Sun Gears in or youll have serious carnage
lol i had to point it out.
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Ridley
Neither will be the updated ones
Ahh maybe I read wrong thought hacker07 said something about they were all the new ones at horizon
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by cwilkinson
Ahh maybe I read wrong thought hacker07 said something about they were all the new ones at horizon
He said all the new ones were the old style, unfortunately
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:58 PM
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there was a batch of old ones that were still around and got sent out. the new ones will be out after the old ones so keep buying em boys
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Ridley
He said all the new ones were the old style, unfortunately
Missed that part of the memo
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Old 01-02-2012, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Ridley
Why not velcro?

I use industrial velcro, and it works great. I use it for all of my electronics because it's the best vibration dampener out there. I did separate the boards on an RX8 by mounting with 2 sided tape, switched to velcro and never had an issue since. It also seems to keep the POS spektrum rx's from debinding from a hard hit(soooo glad 4PKS is on its way!). I like it, so just curious why some don't.
I just said I don't use Velcro I didn't say not to use it.
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Old 01-02-2012, 04:12 PM
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I squeezed out 15min out of my replacement Orion 6500 pack at practice today. After installing the TLR kit my truck is nose diving again. Will putting some anti squat in help that at all? It seems like its springing off the jumps. I'm waiting for my chassis guard before installing my TLR chassis so I'm sure my setup will change again. I guess I can setup the shocks as emulsion to help with the bounce.
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Old 01-02-2012, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by LosiMadMan
I squeezed out 15min out of my replacement Orion 6500 pack at practice today. After installing the TLR kit my truck is nose diving again. Will putting some anti squat in help that at all? It seems like its springing off the jumps. I'm waiting for my chassis guard before installing my TLR chassis so I'm sure my setup will change again. I guess I can setup the shocks as emulsion to help with the bounce.
I just got some tlr adj. Rear hinge pin holders myself and was wondering what everyone is setting their antisquat at in the rear. Thx
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Old 01-02-2012, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by nitro0619
I just got some tlr adj. Rear hinge pin holders myself and was wondering what everyone is setting their antisquat at in the rear. Thx
stock 0's for the inserts. havent really seen anybody else trying anything different. i think most people got them because they are lighter then stock
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Old 01-02-2012, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 10sctrel0v3r
stock 0's for the inserts. havent really seen anybody else trying anything different. i think most people got them because they are lighter then stock
ive got mine with 3* anit squat and 3* of toe and it feels great!
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Old 01-02-2012, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by black05stxjt
ive got mine with 3* anit squat and 3* of toe and it feels great!
what kind of track are you running on? and whats the rest of your setup like?
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Old 01-02-2012, 05:17 PM
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That is a very common setup, the 1 insert upward on the front for antisquat and 0 instert for the rear to keep the stock toe @ -3

The "front" part of the rear hinge brace is what im refering to.
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