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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 12-25-2011, 05:35 PM
  #26431  
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Originally Posted by Gilley11 View Post
I picked this up 2nd hand but I was told that it only has 5min on it and thats what the chassis shows. He said that he had issues with getting it running but it was motor/esc related. Now i wonder if the diff was binding and it was the issue causing the isssue.
When i removed the diffs it had the blackish grease in it so I assume he did not sand them
I have assembled them in both washer above o ring and without as some have done. With shims between diff pin blocksand without.

Could the sun gear pin recess not be deep enough? I have read about gear issues but just wasn't sure this is what others have run into.

Thanks for the help
whats up gilley!!!!!!!

make sure the metal inserts are all the way seated maybe???
I ran into the same problem with mine and got around it by not using the shims between the spider gears and the lil blocks. I also did back the screws out one turn also, I use the green slime to seal the diffs, never leaked. keep the shim behind the sun gear so the diff will seal, maybe the previous owner glued the metal inserts in and didn't have them seated in all the way???? hope this might help, can't wait to get a chance to race you again, soon as I get a motor back in mine
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Old 12-25-2011, 06:11 PM
  #26432  
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Originally Posted by sir miles View Post
Merry Christmas everyone!

Is there an aftermarket rod end with metal ball for our SCTE? I have the 1st gen SCTE and the aluminum balls on all my rod ends are all worn out.
Here:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ot-Ball-Set-16
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Old 12-25-2011, 06:12 PM
  #26433  
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I just ordered my SCTE and figure that while I am waiting for it to come in I should get a spare parts list going what kind of parts should I try to keep on me at all times?

I am going to run it stock and replace the parts as needed I see that the shock towers are something I will want to keep around but what else should I keep?
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Old 12-25-2011, 07:22 PM
  #26434  
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hello,
I just got a aftermarket chassis and the losi torque rod. Can someone please post a picture of this torque rod In their car so I can see I make sure I build it correctly, and can someone tell me how do you adjust it. What adjustments do what to the rear end?

thanks for the help
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Old 12-25-2011, 07:52 PM
  #26435  
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.
no adjustments really needed.

Last edited by Feint Motion; 12-25-2011 at 11:32 PM.
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Old 12-25-2011, 09:19 PM
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I just got my SCTE yesterday and want to get it track ready for Tuesday. Got track tires, RC8 chassis brace, serated wheel nuts, spring kits, electronics, and diff fluid. My question is diff building technique. I have seen bits and peices of tips on building them, but no "how to/tips and tricks" post. Can anyone walk me through it and help me out. I've been a Associated guy forever, and this is the first time I've jumped ship to Losi. No other real option in Pro4 imo. i'm going to run 5-7-3 and associated black grease on the ring & pinion. I have silicone for the diff cups as well. Love the truck so far, but the screws are sub-par. Good wrench's are a must on this sc.
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Old 12-25-2011, 09:32 PM
  #26437  
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Originally Posted by nismomike View Post
I just got my SCTE yesterday and want to get it track ready for Tuesday. Got track tires, RC8 chassis brace, serated wheel nuts, spring kits, electronics, and diff fluid. My question is diff building technique. I have seen bits and peices of tips on building them, but no "how to/tips and tricks" post. Can anyone walk me through it and help me out. I've been a Associated guy forever, and this is the first time I've jumped ship to Losi. No other real option in Pro4 imo. i'm going to run 5-7-3 and associated black grease on the ring & pinion. I have silicone for the diff cups as well. Love the truck so far, but the screws are sub-par. Good wrench's are a must on this sc.
as far as tips for the diffs, most have been CA gluing the metal insert that pushes into the cup (i put a small ring just under the hex lip of the insert). that helps seal it and keeps the insert from pushing in on the diff (which has happened to people). i would also recommend getting the hardened bushings and sun gear shims from chris attebery. also be aware of the very small shims that go between the spider gears and the square bushings.
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Old 12-25-2011, 10:19 PM
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I just love Losi's aluminum arm for Hitec. Everyone I have ever bought doesn't fit. This one's anadising is so thick it screwed up the threads going on. I guess I'll have to call Losi.
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Old 12-25-2011, 10:34 PM
  #26439  
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Originally Posted by LosiMadMan View Post
I just love Losi's aluminum arm for Hitec. Everyone I have ever bought doesn't fit. This one's anadising is so thick it screwed up the threads going on. I guess I'll have to call Losi.
I use a few drops of triflow to get them on. Even the stock blue arms that come from hitec can be difficult.
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Old 12-25-2011, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Linkdead View Post
I use a few drops of triflow to get them on. Even the stock blue arms that come from hitec can be difficult.
Yea there was something wrong with this one. I've got them to fit on all my Hitec's up untill this one. It's no good any more the inside is toast. If they don't replace it I'll just order another one.
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Old 12-25-2011, 11:34 PM
  #26441  
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Originally Posted by netmaster View Post
I run 7 5 3 and it works well for me. I like the stability it gives going into turns and how when coming out of the turn it makes the front pull harder, fits my driving style. Here is a video of my truck running those diff weights.

I'm the all black truck. I end up third behind Hupo and Kinwald.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hp3MdHaaNaY
Thanks for the vid, that is actually my local track. I used to race at it 20 years ago with an RC10 and a Shumacher Pro Cat. I just finished piecing together my race set up on this SCTE after a few months of purchases and will be practicing there next week. Great track, it went down hill for a while about 10 years ago. Now it is bad ass.
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Old 12-26-2011, 01:00 PM
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Well my brand new Orion 6500 $130 battery puffed and exploded. On the first charge!!
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Old 12-26-2011, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by LosiMadMan View Post
Well my brand new Orion 6500 $130 battery puffed and exploded. On the first charge!!
what esc motor combo do you run?
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Old 12-26-2011, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by LosiMadMan View Post
Well my brand new Orion 6500 $130 battery puffed and exploded. On the first charge!!
good luck getting it replaced. i would never buy an orion battery.
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Old 12-26-2011, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by LosiMadMan View Post
I just love Losi's aluminum arm for Hitec. Everyone I have ever bought doesn't fit. This one's anadising is so thick it screwed up the threads going on. I guess I'll have to call Losi.
Yeah mine didnt fit perfectly. It didnt mess anything up really but i couldnt push it on. i found where the threads matched then used the screw to help it go on. Took it off later and threads on the Hitec 7955 look fine, but the anodizing on the aluminum arm prob was a bit thick in a few areas so it was a little harder to get on. Losi needs to correct that.
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