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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 12-23-2011, 08:36 AM
  #26296  
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Originally Posted by nazman01
havent been on the forum in a while, is there any word or talk on a team truck? like with all the upgrades? or is that not ever goin to happen?
From what I have seen it does not look like its happening
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Old 12-23-2011, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Factory Seal
i bought mine 2 months ago,so should i update the pins and shims or does it have updated ones ...also,do i need to seal anyhthing up when i install Diff fluids?...im installing the HD outdrives.....and was thinking about buying the chris stuff..pins ,shims.steel blocks....
Thanks..
Any of the newer trucks should not have any diff issues. Should not need to upgrade any parts but if you feel better then go for it.

The hardest part of putting silicone diff fluid in the diff is getting the stock grease out. With the o-rings and gasket the diff seels pretty good.

If you want to go the extra mile. here are some tips and tricks.

On a smooth surface with some fine sand paper you can sand flat the diff cups to make sure there is a flat surface for the gasket to seal to. The stock surface is the usually ok but never hurts to make it flat.

Also a lot of guys have found that the metal inserts in the diff cup and the plastic diff cap benefit from being glued in place. Helps them seal a little better. Some use CA which seems to work well. Others have used JB weld or liquid gasket (RTV) from a auto store to seal the metal inserts.

http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/LOS/250/LOSB3542-250.jpg

You can see the insert in the picture above. They give the outdrives something to ride against. They should push out pretty easy when you take the diffs fully apart.

Originally Posted by Ridley
Isolated incident, there is NO problem with the gears!! User error, Shimmed improperly, or flat out lies!!!!


Merry Christmas Doug
There have been gear failures. They have been pretty issolated. Some sound like they have had more issues then others. If that is the case I am sorry. It looks like from posts on here though more people have had great longevity of stock gears then have had major issues. I guess that is my point.
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:06 AM
  #26298  
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Originally Posted by Josey Wales
what other packs have you tried? anything to compare to?
We test our packs against everything out there in a pretty advanced battery test lab. I dont post here very often, and I dont want to come across like Im spamming our products, but the new packs really are that good. Im not even going to post a link...if you want to check them out, search ProTek 70C at AMain.

The only disadvantage when comparing our packs to the rest, is ours are a little heavier @ 318g...but all that power comes at a price and that is slightly heavier weight. Kendall wants to provide our customers with the BEST product possible, and our 70C packs are awesome.
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:27 AM
  #26299  
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Originally Posted by scoobie1
We test our packs against everything out there in a pretty advanced battery test lab. I dont post here very often, and I dont want to come across like Im spamming our products, but the new packs really are that good. Im not even going to post a link...if you want to check them out, search ProTek 70C at AMain.

The only disadvantage when comparing our packs to the rest, is ours are a little heavier @ 318g...but all that power comes at a price and that is slightly heavier weight. Kendall wants to provide our customers with the BEST product possible, and our 70C packs are awesome.
thanks for not spamming because I know the Novak guy and Revtech guy does. It is obivous why they do but also annoying when you want to hear user opinions on a product and not manufacture non-sense.
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Littlejohn Dsgn
I just ordered a bearing set from Avid .... I would like to keep my old bearings as emergency backups, there not it to bad of shap a little dirty but would work in a pinch. Whats the best way to clean them up? Should I blast them with some break cleaner and soak them in WD40 over night then put them in a case in the pit box?

Thanks for all your help guys.
Yeah let them soak over night to get all the grease and dirt out, Then buy some bearing lube and go through the bearings and lube. Here's the lube you want to use by Acer http://www.acerracing.com/ball_beari...il-967-70.html
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Old 12-23-2011, 09:58 AM
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I've also herd of people having good results lubing bearings with marvel mystery oil, you can pick up a big bottle at Napa or Advanced auto for $8.00 or less if I recall
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Old 12-23-2011, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by namewasdallas
Yeah let them soak over night to get all the grease and dirt out, Then buy some bearing lube and go through the bearings and lube. Here's the lube you want to use by Acer http://www.acerracing.com/ball_beari...il-967-70.html

Originally Posted by namewasdallas
I've also herd of people having good results lubing bearings with marvel mystery oil, you can pick up a big bottle at Napa or Advanced auto for $8.00 or less if I recall
Thanks guys I know its not wise to reuse them .... but I donít want to toss them either, the tracks I race at have no shop onsite so if something happens and I donít have a spare my days over so I like to have lots of backups even backups to the backups .

I have a bottle of Marvel I use for other things, I will let the bearings soak, I have an ultra sonic parts cleaner (its actually for my wifeís jewelry but she does not need to know I use it for car parts too) I will drop them in their overnight then lube up Should work in a pinch for a heat or two till I can get new bearings to put back in.
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Old 12-23-2011, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by namewasdallas
I've also herd of people having good results lubing bearings with marvel mystery oil, you can pick up a big bottle at Napa or Advanced auto for $8.00 or less if I recall
I spray out my bearing with motor cleaner first and then soak them in marvals over night. It's the best thing to do if you want to keep your bearing.
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Old 12-23-2011, 11:37 AM
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Hey guys, I picked up a truck with some STRC hop ups that I'm not gonna use. Front and rear chassis braces were on the truck and gun metal rear hubs new in package. Anyone interested in this stuff for $65 shipped PM me.

Nick... I'll see you at the dome buddy!
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:00 PM
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Guy's what KV Tekin Pro 4 motor is best for the SCTE 4000 or 4600kv??
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:14 PM
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go with the big boy. i like speed. turn it down if its too much.
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Benny 13
go with the big boy. i like speed. turn it down if its too much.
+1 4600 or bust
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Littlejohn Dsgn
I just ordered a bearing set from Avid .... I would like to keep my old bearings as emergency backups, there not it to bad of shap a little dirty but would work in a pinch. Whats the best way to clean them up? Should I blast them with some break cleaner and soak them in WD40 over night then put them in a case in the pit box?

Thanks for all your help guys.
I usually remove the rubber seals with a pick and try not to damage. Let them sit over night in WD40 and the repack bearing with chassis grease, then pop seals back on. Works great and did this in my crawler as well.
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Old 12-23-2011, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by jetcam2
Guy's what KV Tekin Pro 4 motor is best for the SCTE 4000 or 4600kv??
4000, easy on curves.
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Old 12-23-2011, 03:17 PM
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Both motors work well. If you go 4600 you can always turn it down.

Turning motors down is far easier then spooling them up.
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