9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
12-20-2011, 08:43 PM
12-20-2011, 09:16 PM
It is normal for the center diff to wiggle in this truck. IT does not have a negative effect. I will admit it was not designed to wiggle but it does and it does not hurt anything.
12-20-2011, 11:19 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
Question regarding rear sag
I am not too knowledgeable yet with this truck and I have only ever owned a Slash 4x4 before this (well other than my RC-10 and RC-10T in the late 80's and early 90's). So pardon my ignorance please.
When my SCTE is sitting on the ground if I push the rear down to where it hit bottoms and then let go, the truck never fully comes up. If I pull up on it a bit it goes to the top and stays there. I can see a few reasons why this could be, but I wanted to know the reason.
1. This is intentional
2. Stronger springs help it come up (and it should basically go back to the top)
3. Position of the shocks
4. CVD's (in the Slash 4x4, the crappy non-dog bone style would get dirt in them and wouldn't allow for in-out and they would stay down.
Tonight I swapped my stock springs with the Losi Racing Springs silver in the rear. Thinking maybe Orange, but going to try silver.
When my SCTE is sitting on the ground if I push the rear down to where it hit bottoms and then let go, the truck never fully comes up. If I pull up on it a bit it goes to the top and stays there. I can see a few reasons why this could be, but I wanted to know the reason.
1. This is intentional
2. Stronger springs help it come up (and it should basically go back to the top)
3. Position of the shocks
4. CVD's (in the Slash 4x4, the crappy non-dog bone style would get dirt in them and wouldn't allow for in-out and they would stay down.
Tonight I swapped my stock springs with the Losi Racing Springs silver in the rear. Thinking maybe Orange, but going to try silver.
12-20-2011, 11:51 PM
I am not too knowledgeable yet with this truck and I have only ever owned a Slash 4x4 before this (well other than my RC-10 and RC-10T in the late 80's and early 90's). So pardon my ignorance please.
When my SCTE is sitting on the ground if I push the rear down to where it hit bottoms and then let go, the truck never fully comes up. If I pull up on it a bit it goes to the top and stays there. I can see a few reasons why this could be, but I wanted to know the reason.
1. This is intentional
2. Stronger springs help it come up (and it should basically go back to the top)
3. Position of the shocks
4. CVD's (in the Slash 4x4, the crappy non-dog bone style would get dirt in them and wouldn't allow for in-out and they would stay down.
Tonight I swapped my stock springs with the Losi Racing Springs silver in the rear. Thinking maybe Orange, but going to try silver.
When my SCTE is sitting on the ground if I push the rear down to where it hit bottoms and then let go, the truck never fully comes up. If I pull up on it a bit it goes to the top and stays there. I can see a few reasons why this could be, but I wanted to know the reason.
1. This is intentional
2. Stronger springs help it come up (and it should basically go back to the top)
3. Position of the shocks
4. CVD's (in the Slash 4x4, the crappy non-dog bone style would get dirt in them and wouldn't allow for in-out and they would stay down.
Tonight I swapped my stock springs with the Losi Racing Springs silver in the rear. Thinking maybe Orange, but going to try silver.
It is intentional. For a lot of reasons.. Compensating chassis roll and weight distribution when turning, absorbing bumps, and so on. The spring presses the shock down, in order to have the wheels on the ground as much as possible. If it were to be up all the time alot of the handling of the car would disappear.
Stronger springs will help it come up, and position of the shocks will also change the way the shock handles. The question is if you want that.
12-21-2011, 12:21 AM
Don't be intimidated to race. Most tracks have a rookie or beginner class. Enter that. If you do well, they'll move you up as they see fit. Most of all, have fun. Also, remember slow is fast. Example, there's a big triple, it's better to double single and stay on your wheels than to go for the triple, come up short or over jump it and end up on your lid. Just concentrate on keeping it on it's wheels. Once you can go a full race with only a few crashes, watch the lines the fast guys are using because they often will cut tenth's of a second off of several turns and by the end of the lap, they've cut 1/2 to a full second or sometimes more off of a lap time. By the end of the race, that's an extra lap or two!
12-21-2011, 03:04 AM
http://www.promatchracing.com/prodde...prod=2S600060C
yes you r right but i didnt know they had that one and this one doest show that is has a burst rate do you know if it does?or is it 60c all the time
yes you r right but i didnt know they had that one and this one doest show that is has a burst rate do you know if it does?or is it 60c all the time
12-21-2011, 05:01 AM
I am not too knowledgeable yet with this truck and I have only ever owned a Slash 4x4 before this (well other than my RC-10 and RC-10T in the late 80's and early 90's). So pardon my ignorance please.
When my SCTE is sitting on the ground if I push the rear down to where it hit bottoms and then let go, the truck never fully comes up. If I pull up on it a bit it goes to the top and stays there. I can see a few reasons why this could be, but I wanted to know the reason.
1. This is intentional
2. Stronger springs help it come up (and it should basically go back to the top)
3. Position of the shocks
4. CVD's (in the Slash 4x4, the crappy non-dog bone style would get dirt in them and wouldn't allow for in-out and they would stay down.
Tonight I swapped my stock springs with the Losi Racing Springs silver in the rear. Thinking maybe Orange, but going to try silver.
When my SCTE is sitting on the ground if I push the rear down to where it hit bottoms and then let go, the truck never fully comes up. If I pull up on it a bit it goes to the top and stays there. I can see a few reasons why this could be, but I wanted to know the reason.
1. This is intentional
2. Stronger springs help it come up (and it should basically go back to the top)
3. Position of the shocks
4. CVD's (in the Slash 4x4, the crappy non-dog bone style would get dirt in them and wouldn't allow for in-out and they would stay down.
Tonight I swapped my stock springs with the Losi Racing Springs silver in the rear. Thinking maybe Orange, but going to try silver.
12-21-2011, 05:21 AM
This is not intentional. Chances are that your rear arms are binding. Many of our did the same thing. Remove your rear shocks and then filp your truck from right side up to upside down. When you do this the rear arms should flop back and forth like a limp noodle. If not you need to find out where they are binding, usually it is because you need to trim the nipple off the back of the rear arm and possibly loosen up the 2 screws that hold the hinge pin cover on. Check that and then let us know if it solved your problem.
And scrub in the tires when the suspension moves, unless it's on a very slippery surface.
No matter how free everything is, the truck will never be exactly the same height when you compress it and let it spring up, or set it down easy and let it settle.
12-21-2011, 05:27 AM
Guess i was totally wrong then, lol.
How can i locate this nipple you are talking about?
And what is stiction in the shocks?
How can i locate this nipple you are talking about?
And what is stiction in the shocks?
12-21-2011, 07:09 AM
You may also need to ream the holes in the a arms larger to free it up. Also stock springs rub on the shock body abd you hear a clicking type if sound when compressing the shocks. Your truck will never be as good as the shock action on a dingo
12-21-2011, 07:37 AM
I am not too knowledgeable yet with this truck and I have only ever owned a Slash 4x4 before this (well other than my RC-10 and RC-10T in the late 80's and early 90's). So pardon my ignorance please.
When my SCTE is sitting on the ground if I push the rear down to where it hit bottoms and then let go, the truck never fully comes up. If I pull up on it a bit it goes to the top and stays there. I can see a few reasons why this could be, but I wanted to know the reason.
1. This is intentional
2. Stronger springs help it come up (and it should basically go back to the top)
3. Position of the shocks
4. CVD's (in the Slash 4x4, the crappy non-dog bone style would get dirt in them and wouldn't allow for in-out and they would stay down.
Tonight I swapped my stock springs with the Losi Racing Springs silver in the rear. Thinking maybe Orange, but going to try silver.
When my SCTE is sitting on the ground if I push the rear down to where it hit bottoms and then let go, the truck never fully comes up. If I pull up on it a bit it goes to the top and stays there. I can see a few reasons why this could be, but I wanted to know the reason.
1. This is intentional
2. Stronger springs help it come up (and it should basically go back to the top)
3. Position of the shocks
4. CVD's (in the Slash 4x4, the crappy non-dog bone style would get dirt in them and wouldn't allow for in-out and they would stay down.
Tonight I swapped my stock springs with the Losi Racing Springs silver in the rear. Thinking maybe Orange, but going to try silver.
12-21-2011, 08:14 AM
Tips on tuning 4 the day.
clean it, wash it, lube it, make it loose, free it up and it will treat you right. check your toe in front ,, adjust to even to 1 deg toe out, camber -1, good tires ride height, droup and have a nice christmas
clean it, wash it, lube it, make it loose, free it up and it will treat you right. check your toe in front ,, adjust to even to 1 deg toe out, camber -1, good tires ride height, droup and have a nice christmas
12-21-2011, 08:27 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
This is possible. Getting the shocks back in to the A arms was a chore, they are tight as all holy hell. Just to get them out I didnt want to pull hard on the shock (shaft) so I had to use something under the A-arm to push the bottom of the shock out of the A-Arm. I will check and maybe use my hobby knife and ream the hole a little so there may be room for the shocks to pivot. Maybe they are too tight and that is preventing them from coming up on their own as much as they need.
12-21-2011, 08:29 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
The springs will help and you will likely want to end up wtiht he orange springs on. The primary things to check on the rear of this truck are that the top of the shock where it attaches to the rear tower is not too tight. You should always be able to hold the shock cap and wiggle it freely on the shock bushing. The next thing to check is the set screws that adjust how free the sway bar is. Where the sway bar attaches to the rear bulkhead, there are two screws, one on top and one on bottom of a bracket and in the center of that bracket, there is a set screw. You want to loosen those until the sway bar slides back and forth freely. If this doesnt solve it, try the inner hinge pins next but usually that frees up after a couple of runs.
I will say that the new springs fit the shock tubes better. The stock springs would rub on the shock tubes in the rear and I already lost anodizing off them and some of the lower threads look a little polished and have lost their sharpness. The new springs must be a little wider in diameter so they clear the tubes a ltitle better.
12-21-2011, 08:56 AM
I did tighten the nut on the back of the shock really tight. It is possible that the shocks cant move too freely. I ca see them move when I would raise and lower the A-arm but that is under my power. I will losen them a little and do as you said and see if it improves. Yes I was thinking the Orange but I went silver, I agree I will likely want the ORange (from all the reading i did others put orange on rear and black on front).
I will say that the new springs fit the shock tubes better. The stock springs would rub on the shock tubes in the rear and I already lost anodizing off them and some of the lower threads look a little polished and have lost their sharpness. The new springs must be a little wider in diameter so they clear the tubes a ltitle better.
I will say that the new springs fit the shock tubes better. The stock springs would rub on the shock tubes in the rear and I already lost anodizing off them and some of the lower threads look a little polished and have lost their sharpness. The new springs must be a little wider in diameter so they clear the tubes a ltitle better.
I would highly recommend freeing up the A Arms front and rear where the hinge pin goes. Take a drill bit that's a tad larger then the hinge pin and push it in the end of the arms and twist it by hand a few times until the hinge pin can slide freely. My hinge pins were so tight i had to grab pliers to get it out, should be able to slide it out by hand. Someone in this thread it has the perfect size drill bit to use.