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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 12-20-2011, 03:06 PM
  #26176  
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Originally Posted by black05stxjt View Post
I had 3 out of the 4 wheels do this on my truck and contacted JC and sent the pictures and supposed to have a new set coming to me. just wish the tires on them werent a wash
Get some acetone, put it in a bucket, put wheels/tires in, squeeze wheels to get acetone inside, wait 24 hours and the tires will come right off.

I was skeptical of this, but I recently got my SCTE and all my wheel/tire combos were Slash Front offset due to having a Nexx10SC. I was able to reuse all 5 sets of my tires doing this. All of the tires literally came off like there was no glue in the first place.
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Old 12-20-2011, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by spider882009 View Post
Dear LOSI,
Thank You for sending me a new body!!!
Chad
I still haven't got my replacement.
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Old 12-20-2011, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by JayL View Post
I have had better luck with the Losi Serrated Wheels nuts.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ut-Set-6-Black


I have tried both sets of the Durango ones and lost a nut during Qual's.

The stock HPI Blitz ones are my second choice, the flange is too big for some wheels.

I would like to try the M2C Steel serrated ones
I have some losi serrated wheel nuts on order found some HPI flanged ones at my LHS will give that a try.
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:39 PM
  #26179  
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Default Which springs front/rear to use from Losi Racing Spring Set

I bought the LOSB2963 and LOSB2959 racing spring sets and wondering if these springs might be better than the stocks on my TEN-SCTE. I can say that the rear stock springs seem to touch the threads on the shock bodies each time so I'm sure it will eventually hose those threads. I think I recall someone saying silver in the rear? Dunno, anyone have suggestions? For now I am just hitting some large outdoor parks with jumps and such, so bashing mostly. I think in 2011 I'll do my first day at the track

Last edited by AgroAMG; 12-20-2011 at 08:54 PM.
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:43 PM
  #26180  
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I use these on my truck.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ima-SC-SCRT-10
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Old 12-20-2011, 09:16 PM
  #26181  
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Originally Posted by rchoi View Post
sorry to ask same question over...
so its not normal, losi didn't design the wobble play...did someone mentioned U-Joints? whats the HD units? should i replace the holder with STRC stuff rightaway or wait until it breaks...
It is normal for the center diff to wiggle in this truck. IT does not have a negative effect. I will admit it was not designed to wiggle but it does and it does not hurt anything.
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:19 PM
  #26182  
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Default Question regarding rear sag

I am not too knowledgeable yet with this truck and I have only ever owned a Slash 4x4 before this (well other than my RC-10 and RC-10T in the late 80's and early 90's). So pardon my ignorance please.

When my SCTE is sitting on the ground if I push the rear down to where it hit bottoms and then let go, the truck never fully comes up. If I pull up on it a bit it goes to the top and stays there. I can see a few reasons why this could be, but I wanted to know the reason.

1. This is intentional
2. Stronger springs help it come up (and it should basically go back to the top)
3. Position of the shocks
4. CVD's (in the Slash 4x4, the crappy non-dog bone style would get dirt in them and wouldn't allow for in-out and they would stay down.

Tonight I swapped my stock springs with the Losi Racing Springs silver in the rear. Thinking maybe Orange, but going to try silver.
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:51 PM
  #26183  
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Originally Posted by AgroAMG View Post
I am not too knowledgeable yet with this truck and I have only ever owned a Slash 4x4 before this (well other than my RC-10 and RC-10T in the late 80's and early 90's). So pardon my ignorance please.

When my SCTE is sitting on the ground if I push the rear down to where it hit bottoms and then let go, the truck never fully comes up. If I pull up on it a bit it goes to the top and stays there. I can see a few reasons why this could be, but I wanted to know the reason.

1. This is intentional
2. Stronger springs help it come up (and it should basically go back to the top)
3. Position of the shocks
4. CVD's (in the Slash 4x4, the crappy non-dog bone style would get dirt in them and wouldn't allow for in-out and they would stay down.

Tonight I swapped my stock springs with the Losi Racing Springs silver in the rear. Thinking maybe Orange, but going to try silver.

It is intentional. For a lot of reasons.. Compensating chassis roll and weight distribution when turning, absorbing bumps, and so on. The spring presses the shock down, in order to have the wheels on the ground as much as possible. If it were to be up all the time alot of the handling of the car would disappear.

Stronger springs will help it come up, and position of the shocks will also change the way the shock handles. The question is if you want that.
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Old 12-21-2011, 12:21 AM
  #26184  
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Originally Posted by AgroAMG View Post
For now I am just hitting some large outdoor parks with jumps and such, so bashing mostly. I think in 2011 I'll do my first day at the track
Well you better hurry then, there's only about a week and a half left in 2011!!! Don't be intimidated to race. Most tracks have a rookie or beginner class. Enter that. If you do well, they'll move you up as they see fit. Most of all, have fun. Also, remember slow is fast. Example, there's a big triple, it's better to double single and stay on your wheels than to go for the triple, come up short or over jump it and end up on your lid. Just concentrate on keeping it on it's wheels. Once you can go a full race with only a few crashes, watch the lines the fast guys are using because they often will cut tenth's of a second off of several turns and by the end of the lap, they've cut 1/2 to a full second or sometimes more off of a lap time. By the end of the race, that's an extra lap or two!
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Old 12-21-2011, 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by pfraser2488 View Post
http://www.promatchracing.com/prodde...prod=2S600060C
yes you r right but i didnt know they had that one and this one doest show that is has a burst rate do you know if it does?or is it 60c all the time
i just recevied an email from jeff at promatch and he said that the promatch batteries are 60c/120c burst so that sounds like a heck of a lipo for the price.so thanks to who ever sent him this link and got my question answered
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:01 AM
  #26186  
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Originally Posted by AgroAMG View Post
I am not too knowledgeable yet with this truck and I have only ever owned a Slash 4x4 before this (well other than my RC-10 and RC-10T in the late 80's and early 90's). So pardon my ignorance please.

When my SCTE is sitting on the ground if I push the rear down to where it hit bottoms and then let go, the truck never fully comes up. If I pull up on it a bit it goes to the top and stays there. I can see a few reasons why this could be, but I wanted to know the reason.

1. This is intentional
2. Stronger springs help it come up (and it should basically go back to the top)
3. Position of the shocks
4. CVD's (in the Slash 4x4, the crappy non-dog bone style would get dirt in them and wouldn't allow for in-out and they would stay down.

Tonight I swapped my stock springs with the Losi Racing Springs silver in the rear. Thinking maybe Orange, but going to try silver.
This is not intentional. Chances are that your rear arms are binding. Many of our did the same thing. Remove your rear shocks and then filp your truck from right side up to upside down. When you do this the rear arms should flop back and forth like a limp noodle. If not you need to find out where they are binding, usually it is because you need to trim the nipple off the back of the rear arm and possibly loosen up the 2 screws that hold the hinge pin cover on. Check that and then let us know if it solved your problem.
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by alvinsmith75 View Post
This is not intentional. Chances are that your rear arms are binding. Many of our did the same thing. Remove your rear shocks and then filp your truck from right side up to upside down. When you do this the rear arms should flop back and forth like a limp noodle. If not you need to find out where they are binding, usually it is because you need to trim the nipple off the back of the rear arm and possibly loosen up the 2 screws that hold the hinge pin cover on. Check that and then let us know if it solved your problem.
Also, stiction in the shocks.

And scrub in the tires when the suspension moves, unless it's on a very slippery surface.

No matter how free everything is, the truck will never be exactly the same height when you compress it and let it spring up, or set it down easy and let it settle.
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Old 12-21-2011, 05:27 AM
  #26188  
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Guess i was totally wrong then, lol.

How can i locate this nipple you are talking about?

And what is stiction in the shocks?
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Old 12-21-2011, 07:09 AM
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You may also need to ream the holes in the a arms larger to free it up. Also stock springs rub on the shock body abd you hear a clicking type if sound when compressing the shocks. Your truck will never be as good as the shock action on a dingo
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Old 12-21-2011, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by AgroAMG View Post
I am not too knowledgeable yet with this truck and I have only ever owned a Slash 4x4 before this (well other than my RC-10 and RC-10T in the late 80's and early 90's). So pardon my ignorance please.

When my SCTE is sitting on the ground if I push the rear down to where it hit bottoms and then let go, the truck never fully comes up. If I pull up on it a bit it goes to the top and stays there. I can see a few reasons why this could be, but I wanted to know the reason.

1. This is intentional
2. Stronger springs help it come up (and it should basically go back to the top)
3. Position of the shocks
4. CVD's (in the Slash 4x4, the crappy non-dog bone style would get dirt in them and wouldn't allow for in-out and they would stay down.

Tonight I swapped my stock springs with the Losi Racing Springs silver in the rear. Thinking maybe Orange, but going to try silver.
The springs will help and you will likely want to end up wtiht he orange springs on. The primary things to check on the rear of this truck are that the top of the shock where it attaches to the rear tower is not too tight. You should always be able to hold the shock cap and wiggle it freely on the shock bushing. The next thing to check is the set screws that adjust how free the sway bar is. Where the sway bar attaches to the rear bulkhead, there are two screws, one on top and one on bottom of a bracket and in the center of that bracket, there is a set screw. You want to loosen those until the sway bar slides back and forth freely. If this doesnt solve it, try the inner hinge pins next but usually that frees up after a couple of runs.
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