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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 12-20-2011, 12:24 AM
  #26146  
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Originally Posted by ae4ever
OK, this might be a FNG question but the setups on Losi.com have a rear shock length of 100 to 102mm, how do you get the shock that short? Internal spacers? Also when they say "overall shock length" is it measured from the pivot ball centers or from the top of the shock cap to the end of the shock end? Thanks.
you measure form the center of the screw to the center of the nut.

there a screw in the arm turn it in nice and slow and get the measurement you want
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Old 12-20-2011, 12:57 AM
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Originally Posted by rchoi
sorry to ask same question over...
so its not normal, losi didn't design the wobble play...did someone mentioned U-Joints? whats the HD units? should i replace the holder with STRC stuff rightaway or wait until it breaks...
Normal, yes, as they all do it stock. Designed that way, prolly not as it's only detrimental...just sloppy manufacturing tolerances. The HD units are the lightweight and hardened units linked below. They have a slightly larger shaft and reduce most of the wobble. They also last FAR longer than the stockers. One of the MUst BUY mods IMHO. They also make them for the front and rear, I'd buy all 3 sets if I was you as all 3 wobble, it's just easiest to see in the center diff.

The play is rarely in the holder, but if yours is loose around the bearing, I'd just use a stocker to replace it. I don't have much good to say about STRC, and once the center diff doesn't vibrate all around, the stock plastic support is just fine.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Outdrive-Set-2
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Old 12-20-2011, 02:04 AM
  #26148  
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Default Castle 1415 2400Kv or Tenshock SC411 4000Kv?

I'm currently using a Castle 1415 2400Kv on 2S with 20T, using the MMP ESC.

Thinking about changing over to the Tenshock SC411 (ie 4 pole sensored) 4000Kv.

I'm not racing per se, only using it on a outdoor 1:10 track and quite enjoy it and am just working on improving my driving.

1) Would you recommend changing over?
2) How many teeth pinion gear would I need, still running on 2S?

Thanks!
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Old 12-20-2011, 02:10 AM
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Guys, what size is the lock nut for the axles?
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Old 12-20-2011, 03:34 AM
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Originally Posted by krash'um
Guys, what size is the lock nut for the axles?
4mm

http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSB3992
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Old 12-20-2011, 06:26 AM
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You measure center to center on the eyelets. You need to add about 3mm of spacers under the piston in the shock to get them to 100mm.


Originally Posted by ae4ever
OK, this might be a FNG question but the setups on Losi.com have a rear shock length of 100 to 102mm, how do you get the shock that short? Internal spacers? Also when they say "overall shock length" is it measured from the pivot ball centers or from the top of the shock cap to the end of the shock end? Thanks.
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Old 12-20-2011, 06:27 AM
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I ran 16T with the 4000kv TenShock. It was PDQ and still never got over 150F.

Originally Posted by eddomak
I'm currently using a Castle 1415 2400Kv on 2S with 20T, using the MMP ESC.

Thinking about changing over to the Tenshock SC411 (ie 4 pole sensored) 4000Kv.

I'm not racing per se, only using it on a outdoor 1:10 track and quite enjoy it and am just working on improving my driving.

1) Would you recommend changing over?
2) How many teeth pinion gear would I need, still running on 2S?

Thanks!
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Old 12-20-2011, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by krash'um
Guys, what size is the lock nut for the axles?
Originally Posted by AbstractZen
Krash. Get serrated nuts like Abstract posted. If you can't find the losi ones, traxxas and ofna both make them as well. For some reason these 4mm nuts don't last long with there locking feature and these serrated nuts are the answer. They will hold tight and keep your wheels one. Almost required for racing the 4X4. I used them on my 22 as well just to be on the safe side!
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Old 12-20-2011, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper
Krash. Get serrated nuts like Abstract posted. If you can't find the losi ones, traxxas and ofna both make them as well. For some reason these 4mm nuts don't last long with there locking feature and these serrated nuts are the answer. They will hold tight and keep your wheels one. Almost required for racing the 4X4. I used them on my 22 as well just to be on the safe side!
+1, those Losi nuts are great. I've never had a nut fall off since I got them, I used to use the traxxas serrated ones but it didn't have the nylon on it. These Losi ones have both to ensure they are secure. I love them so much I started using them on my TC6.
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Old 12-20-2011, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by kjohnsiii
Yeah, my plastic diff holder is pretty hashed so I ordered a strc replacement last week.
Let me know how that works out for yah, I was thinking of ordering one as well and some new bearings to toss in it.

Does anyone know what abec the bearings are on the Center diff holder and the front and rear?

I was thinking of putting in a better bearing to make things spin more freely then it already is
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Old 12-20-2011, 10:03 AM
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AbstractZen, Casper, Asharus, Thanks guys.
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Old 12-20-2011, 10:30 AM
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get the durango nuts. 4mm, serrated, black, and CHEAP.
about $2 for ten pretty much everywhere.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Nut-Set-10

Last edited by lowroad; 12-20-2011 at 03:49 PM. Reason: fixed the link
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by lowroad
get the durango nuts. 4mm, serrated, black, and CHEAP.
about $2 for ten pretty much everywhere.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Nut-Set-10
Got a pack of those on their way in the order I just placed ... looked like a good deal.
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Ridley
Normal, yes, as they all do it stock. Designed that way, prolly not as it's only detrimental...just sloppy manufacturing tolerances. The HD units are the lightweight and hardened units linked below. They have a slightly larger shaft and reduce most of the wobble. They also last FAR longer than the stockers. One of the MUst BUY mods IMHO. They also make them for the front and rear, I'd buy all 3 sets if I was you as all 3 wobble, it's just easiest to see in the center diff.

The play is rarely in the holder, but if yours is loose around the bearing, I'd just use a stocker to replace it. I don't have much good to say about STRC, and once the center diff doesn't vibrate all around, the stock plastic support is just fine.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Outdrive-Set-2
The stock losi diff holder gets pretty hot during a race, goes through allot of heat cycles. The aluminum one is better.
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Old 12-20-2011, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by lowroad
get the durango nuts. 4mm, serrated, black, and CHEAP.
about $2 for ten pretty much everywhere.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Nut-Set-10
Those are a good deal for flanged locknuts, but they aren't serrated. I continued to have issues with wheel nuts loosening until I got the ones that are serrated to dig into the wheel a bit.
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