porkchop

you measure form the center of the screw to the center of the nut.

there a screw in the arm turn it in nice and slow and get the measurement you want

Ridley

iTrader: (13)

Normal, yes, as they all do it stock. Designed that way, prolly not as it's only detrimental...just sloppy manufacturing tolerances. The HD units are the lightweight and hardened units linked below. They have a slightly larger shaft and reduce most of the wobble. They also last FAR longer than the stockers. One of the MUst BUY mods IMHO. They also make them for the front and rear, I'd buy all 3 sets if I was you as all 3 wobble, it's just easiest to see in the center diff.

The play is rarely in the holder, but if yours is loose around the bearing, I'd just use a stocker to replace it. I don't have much good to say about STRC, and once the center diff doesn't vibrate all around, the stock plastic support is just fine.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Outdrive-Set-2

eddomak

iTrader: (8)

I'm currently using a Castle 1415 2400Kv on 2S with 20T, using the MMP ESC.

Thinking about changing over to the Tenshock SC411 (ie 4 pole sensored) 4000Kv.

I'm not racing per se, only using it on a outdoor 1:10 track and quite enjoy it and am just working on improving my driving.

1) Would you recommend changing over?
2) How many teeth pinion gear would I need, still running on 2S?

Thanks!

krash'um

iTrader: (4)

Guys, what size is the lock nut for the axles?

AbstractZen

iTrader: (2)

4mm

http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSB3992

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

You measure center to center on the eyelets. You need to add about 3mm of spacers under the piston in the shock to get them to 100mm.

ChrisAttebery

iTrader: (121)

I ran 16T with the 4000kv TenShock. It was PDQ and still never got over 150F.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Krash. Get serrated nuts like Abstract posted. If you can't find the losi ones, traxxas and ofna both make them as well. For some reason these 4mm nuts don't last long with there locking feature and these serrated nuts are the answer. They will hold tight and keep your wheels one. Almost required for racing the 4X4. I used them on my 22 as well just to be on the safe side!

Asharus

iTrader: (42)

+1, those Losi nuts are great. I've never had a nut fall off since I got them, I used to use the traxxas serrated ones but it didn't have the nylon on it. These Losi ones have both to ensure they are secure. I love them so much I started using them on my TC6.

namewasdallas

Let me know how that works out for yah, I was thinking of ordering one as well and some new bearings to toss in it.

Does anyone know what abec the bearings are on the Center diff holder and the front and rear?

I was thinking of putting in a better bearing to make things spin more freely then it already is

krash'um

iTrader: (4)

AbstractZen, Casper, Asharus, Thanks guys.

lowroad

iTrader: (79)

get the durango nuts. 4mm, serrated, black, and CHEAP.
about $2 for ten pretty much everywhere.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Nut-Set-10

Littlejohn Dsgn

iTrader: (47)

Got a pack of those on their way in the order I just placed ... looked like a good deal.

kjohnsiii

iTrader: (55)

The stock losi diff holder gets pretty hot during a race, goes through allot of heat cycles. The aluminum one is better.

kazuaki

iTrader: (35)

Those are a good deal for flanged locknuts, but they aren't serrated. I continued to have issues with wheel nuts loosening until I got the ones that are serrated to dig into the wheel a bit.