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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 12-19-2011, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by cuppcake80
hello,
what does someone think about putting the pro4 4600 on my havoc prosc?
will it be as fast as with an rx8?
will i have heat issues ext.?

thanx in advance!
Is it the "newer" edition of the Havok Pro SC?
Either way the only real difference would be longevity... I ran my 4000 pro4 on my old Havok Pro and it quit working...

But I have heard the newer ones are much better.
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by rchoi
wow...good to hear this is normal but
i never had a car that have wobble diff cups, how do they do that??
I think it's because of the angel on the front center driveshaft causing the issue, it's putting a weird load on the bearing and the plastic piece that holds the bearing.
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by thecman26
Is it the "newer" edition of the Havok Pro SC?
Either way the only real difference would be longevity... I ran my 4000 pro4 on my old Havok Pro and it quit working...

But I have heard the newer ones are much better.
it is the older one.thanx fer the info,scratch that idea

where can i find these tenshock motors?
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by cuppcake80
hello,
what does someone think about putting the pro4 4600 on my havoc prosc?
will it be as fast as with an rx8?
will i have heat issues ext.?

thanx in advance!
If you go to the Havoc Pro thead and read the last 2-3 pages you'll find it's not recommended to run a Pro4 on them. A Novak rep said they are about to put out a service bulletin regarding this after they did some in-house testing with Pro4's on Havoc Pro's.
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by namewasdallas
I think it's because of the angel on the front center driveshaft causing the issue, it's putting a weird load on the bearing and the plastic piece that holds the bearing.
Yeah, my plastic diff holder is pretty hashed so I ordered a strc replacement last week.
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Old 12-19-2011, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper
Bottoming out is not bad unless it bounces. Tuning the shocks stiff enough to not bottom out will really effect the handling in the bumps and turns in a negative way. IF you move the camber link to a new hole you have to reset the camber to 1-2 deg.
It doesn't bounce so I guess I'm good Thanks for the info on the camber links too, I figured that's what I would need to do, but wanted to be sure.
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:03 PM
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so the hobbywing 120A sensored esc w/ the tenshock sc411 5200kv seems like a pretty rowdy setup for a fair price, any feedback?
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by JayL
I have the DE in my right hand and a JC in my left, sqeeeze, switch hands, sqeeze, have friend try,

they seem to have very similar amount of pressure required to flex. I wonder if one "returns" straight better

they are ugly but the stock AE sc10 4x4 rims fit no rubbing
I have never played with a JC wheel, so I can't comment on that. They are substantially more flexible than a proline wheel. Some colors also seem more flexible...silver being the softest.

I have been running the DE 17mm wheels, and they are a good deal stiffer than the 12mm style, but probably still too flexible for a high traction track. I'm going to switch back to losi wheels I believe, and see if I notice any difference.
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Old 12-19-2011, 08:53 PM
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Default JCONCEPTS Wheels

Not sure about how true they stay to round but cant recommend their scte rulux wheels as all four in the set have developed cracks. Some are just on the surface and others go through the spoke. Haven't been rough with them and they are about 10 race days old. I've their slash, b4, t4 and 8 scale rulux wheels and had zero issues. Seems to be something with their wheels for scte.
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by ironman805
Not sure about how true they stay to round but cant recommend their scte rulux wheels as all four in the set have developed cracks. Some are just on the surface and others go through the spoke. Haven't been rough with them and they are about 10 race days old. I've their slash, b4, t4 and 8 scale rulux wheels and had zero issues. Seems to be something with their wheels for scte.
yours have cracked too?!?! damn i thought i was the only one. i have way more less race days on mine then you do and they have the same kind of cracks your describing. might have to get ahold of jc concepts and get a refund or new wheels
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 10sctrel0v3r
yours have cracked too?!?! damn i thought i was the only one. i have way more less race days on mine then you do and they have the same kind of cracks your describing. might have to get ahold of jc concepts and get a refund or new wheels
This is the reason why I decided on using the losi SCTE stock rims. I've seen too many rims crack on the scte aftermarket rim selection. I wonder how the new AKA rims will hold up when they release them into the market
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Old 12-19-2011, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Roger
This is the reason why I decided on using the losi SCTE stock rims. I've seen too many rims crack on the scte aftermarket rim selection. I wonder how the new AKA rims will hold up when they release them into the market
hopefully they hold up alot better. i dont like using the stock rims. i have noticed stress marks near the center of the rim. plastic starts turning white.
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by cuppcake80
it is the older one.thanx fer the info,scratch that idea

where can i find these tenshock motors?
www.builtrc.com
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Old 12-19-2011, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Ridley
They always do that. It's because of poor fitment between the outdrives and steel inserts in the diff cups. If you replace the outdrives with the HD units, before you wear the inserts out, it will eliminate most of the play.

The only downfall to the wobble really, besides noise and vibration, is it will eventually lead to the diff leaking due to the o-rings wearing out prematurely.
sorry to ask same question over...
so its not normal, losi didn't design the wobble play...did someone mentioned U-Joints? whats the HD units? should i replace the holder with STRC stuff rightaway or wait until it breaks...
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Old 12-19-2011, 11:34 PM
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Default shock length

OK, this might be a FNG question but the setups on Losi.com have a rear shock length of 100 to 102mm, how do you get the shock that short? Internal spacers? Also when they say "overall shock length" is it measured from the pivot ball centers or from the top of the shock cap to the end of the shock end? Thanks.
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