Originally Posted by cavg

Going up in front should make it turn less.

Try 5 7 3, and make the front shocks a little bit more vertical.

I went to that from 5 5 3. turns quicker, and best of all, more onpower steering in those low speed 180 corners. The rear does get a good bit looser so have to adjust throttle for that.

Originally Posted by Grandturk

I am, BBQ

I've been running a 12T at Critters and 14T during the summer at CRC - big 8th scale track. Temps are low 120 at most on motor with 12T. I think I may have been as high as 180 with the 14T outdoors in the summer.

Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK

if it's a small track, i'd start with a 15 tooth pinion.

hop ups/spares: the TLR tuning kit is nice and has most of the hop ups you'd want to do other than the HD outdrives and spring kits. you can wait a bit on those until your stock outdrives start to wear. i'd get the spring kits right away. for spares, i bought a bunch of spares (like arms, spindles, carriers, etc) but have never used any of them. the only parts i've replaced have been the front center driveshaft, rear bumper, pivot balls, and steering rack. the truck is very durable and i don't think you need to keep a bunch of spares around unless it's going to take a long time to get parts.

i think the stock rims are the best ones out for the truck. i'd just get those.

i'd get a decent set of hex drive wrenches like these: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...h-Set-US-Sizes

i think the most common issue you would see with the new trucks (that have updated diff pins) will be the front center driveshaft coupler. make sure you keep that coupler well greased which is supposed to help.

your english is fine!

Originally Posted by Casper

Your english is way better then a lot of poeple on here!

I would get the TLR tuned kit as it has a lot of great parts for tuning and added strength for a great price.

Other things that don't come in the tuned kit are the spring kits really help with performance.
Lightened outdrives are nice as they are stronger and lighter. (replace when stock ones wear out!)
Shock piston sets for tuning.

I would say those are the high points for upgrades.

Then you can look at an upgrade chassis that will be stronger and lighter.

Originally Posted by porkchop

so when losi going to release a yellow rim this black is getting old.

and no i dont want the de rims they got more flex in them then a gymnist

Originally Posted by Cesar676

I'm selling my Slash 4x4 and I'm going to buy a Losi SCTe...

- What pinion I need to run with that motor? *The track isn't big*

Originally Posted by hacker07

I ran the esc at 100% with the motor geared at an 18 on 2s and had very good lap times and in 110 degree weather, the motor never got over 185. So, in normal temps and given its a 4 pol which are usually safe up to about 200, you could gear it up but it would be stupid fast at that point. As for the castle link...yep.

Originally Posted by RustyRC

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ow-2-2WD-Slash


http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...te-2-2WD-Slash


NOTE: These wheels are compatible with the Losi TEN-SCTE, but minor trimming of the inner support webs will be required to prevent rubbing.

Originally Posted by RustyRC

There you go

Originally Posted by Toiffel

Anyone running a Havoc Pro and 4.5 Ballistic?? What gearing is being used ??
Thanks!

Originally Posted by teknic

I run this combo, but I have the older 4.5 HV model motor. I think they're pretty much the same though as far as gearing. I run a 14t right now and my motor/esc both temp at around 140 degrees after a 7 minute run. I'm going to try a 15t and see how that does. Just got the truck so haven't had much time to mess around with it.

I did read that if you have the High Torque version of the motor with the longer rotor most people seem to run 16t.

Originally Posted by teknic

I did read that if you have the High Torque version of the motor with the longer rotor most people seem to run 16t.

Originally Posted by BDRMBULLY

What a waste of time that was. He meant the webs on the inside of the rims not the wheel wells