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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 12-05-2011, 12:52 PM
  #25291  
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here is a question to keep the debate going.. lol

i know its frowned upon, to take a 1/8 buggy and convert it.. but why? do the rules state you cant convert a 1/8 buggy?

and honestly.. the SCTE is basically a smaller 1/8 buggy.. when compared side by side with one.. and what is the purpose of converting a 1/8th? strenght?

i have seen people take the SCTE and convert it to a super light 1/8th buggy..
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Old 12-05-2011, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by jhautz View Post
Sounds exactly like the problem I had when mine was loose. Just wide turns with no response.

First time tightened it down quickly right before the first qualifier started and by the end of the qualifier it had backed out and I was loosing steering again. Then in between rounds I took it apart and tightened it down properly with some thread lock and it stayed put with no issues again.

TQ and win!!!
Just to be clear. We are talking about the blue anodized nut under the spring on the servo saver? looks like I need to take off the plastic side guards on the chassis so I can get to it correct?
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:10 PM
  #25293  
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
At this point, for a racer, there is no motor other than the tekin 4600kv 4 pole 540 motor that I would recommend. So smooth and such good power and speed, cant be beat.
Thanks hacker07, that would be with a 2s right?
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Jack & Coke View Post
Just to be clear. We are talking about the blue anodized nut under the spring on the servo saver? looks like I need to take off the plastic side guards on the chassis so I can get to it correct?
Yup, that's the one. I would take the front end off and do it one time than mess up the knurled nut.
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by krash'um View Post
Thanks hacker07, that would be with a 2s right?
Yeah, 2s. Most places to race only allow 2s so that is what my suggestion is based off of.
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:47 PM
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i am a long time 1/8th nitro driver and have recently converted to the scte, i cannot get this thing to not nose dive off of jumps. i literally end up upside down when coming off big jumps, help. Is there a trick to not nose dive off every jump, it is killing me, please help?
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by awidz View Post
i am a long time 1/8th nitro driver and have recently converted to the scte, i cannot get this thing to not nose dive off of jumps. i literally end up upside down when coming off big jumps, help. Is there a trick to not nose dive off every jump, it is killing me, please help?
First, make sure everything is bind free. Second, make sure your truck has no drag brake setup. Third, make sure your ride height is set level. Next, throttle control in the air with these is important and remember they are directly connected to the drive train, so if you let go, the wheels slow down and the nose dives. You will likely want to stay on throttle some going off jumps unlike 8th nitro that free wheels when you let off.
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Old 12-05-2011, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
First, make sure everything is bind free. Second, make sure your truck has no drag brake setup. Third, make sure your ride height is set level. Next, throttle control in the air with these is important and remember they are directly connected to the drive train, so if you let go, the wheels slow down and the nose dives. You will likely want to stay on throttle some going off jumps unlike 8th nitro that free wheels when you let off.
yeah i have some drag brake set, but only a little, but had the same problem when i had none. has to be that i am used to going to the peak of the jump and letting off the throttle when i raced nitro, and if i do that now it flips over in mid air

thanks
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Old 12-05-2011, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by awidz View Post
yeah i have some drag brake set, but only a little, but had the same problem when i had none. has to be that i am used to going to the peak of the jump and letting off the throttle when i raced nitro, and if i do that now it flips over in mid air

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yep

on big air i stay wide open on the throttle till i reach the peak of the jump. then i tap the brakes to level it out if i need to
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:02 PM
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Just installed the pro4 4600/rx8.....wow !! Really powerfull compared to my mamba 3800/mmp....really happy

Took it for a drive around the street and loved it right away!
Question: I know there is more power now but I'm seeing some front tires balloning. Should I wait to see how it handles on the dirt or change something now:
Shocks: 30 all around, emulsion style
Springs: blue front and orange rear
Diff: 5f/7c/2r

Thanks!
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Honu View Post
Yup, that's the one. I would take the front end off and do it one time than mess up the knurled nut.
Ok, seems to be tight. I turned the controller on and powered up the car, turned the wheels to the left and right and tried to move them back to center and it was hard as hell. I have a feeling the knurled nut is not loose. When they come lose does it unwind down to the chassis?
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Panda-PR View Post
Just installed the pro4 4600/rx8.....wow !! Really powerfull compared to my mamba 3800/mmp....really happy

Took it for a drive around the street and loved it right away!
Question: I know there is more power now but I'm seeing some front tires balloning. Should I wait to see how it handles on the dirt or change something now:
Shocks: 30 all around, emulsion style
Springs: blue front and orange rear
Diff: 5f/7c/2r

Thanks!
Run it on the dirt first and you can adjust from there. 7K is on the heavy side already for what most run.
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:19 PM
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Thanks Casper

If I continue to see front tire balloning, drop to 5 in the center?
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Old 12-05-2011, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Panda-PR View Post
Thanks Casper

If I continue to see front tire balloning, drop to 5 in the center?
Actually going down in the center diff will make the issue worse. Basically what is happening is the front tires are lifting or getting less traciton then the rear tires so the power is being transfered to the front. On dirt the rear tires will loose traction faster then on the street so you get a little better balance of power. Going to high in the center diff can take away steering though so you need to find that balance.
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Old 12-05-2011, 04:16 PM
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Good, thanks
Found out that the truck was actually at 34mm on the front and 28 rear. Changed it to 30f / 28 r and will test in a few days
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