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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 11-23-2011, 09:03 AM
  #24721  
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Does Losi make the rear Diff bearing parts the key into the gear box out of AL like they do with the 8th scales?
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Bigedmond View Post
Does Losi make the rear Diff bearing parts the key into the gear box out of AL like they do with the 8th scales?
The diff bearing carriers do key in to the gear box and they appear to be plastic.
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:27 AM
  #24723  
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Originally Posted by Bigedmond View Post
Does Losi make the rear Diff bearing parts the key into the gear box out of AL like they do with the 8th scales?
No they don't at this time nor do I think they have plans to do so.
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:42 AM
  #24724  
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Has anyone had issues with the motor mount screws I can tighten them down but then I cant slide the motor in the motor mount it gets hung up on the slider so I can never have the inside screw closeist to the center diff tightend all the way, or the front of the can on the motor is binding against the motor mount..

I've tryed leaving it loose then sliding the motor in and cranking it down then doing the outside screw but then I can mesh the the pinion and spur because it doesnt move. So currently have to have it as tight as I can get it slide it in mesh the spur and then crank down the outside screw. I haven't had a issue yet cause the top screw keeps the motor in place, but it has a little up and down play..

I was thinking of taking the center diff off the truck to try and figure a way to get that inside one cranked down but im not sure if there's a way. This happened with my Tekin pro 4 and castle 3800kv, It's almost like it was shaved a couple thousandths to much so it the front of the motor is binding on the aluminum motor mount.
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:55 AM
  #24725  
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Originally Posted by mo View Post
If you get too low on the gearing, it feels like you lose power overall. I needed a little bit more power to clear a long triple, that wasn't meant to be a triple , but I didn't want to gear up a tooth so I added a little timing instead and that did the trick. Sometimes you can use a little timing as a cheat to go up 1/2 a pinion size.

thanks for the input,I might try that . everyone else thats answered said theres no noticeable difference. Its getting cold up here so we can do things to motors that we normallly cant in the hot summer
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:23 AM
  #24726  
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I mounted a Tekin Pro 4 4000kv with no problem, but when I mounted a 4600 I experienced the same issue you describe. I just placed two thin washers between the motor and the mount so I could tighten down on both screws. Doing so didn't cause any issues with gear mesh or alignment at the spur/pinion.

Originally Posted by namewasdallas View Post
Has anyone had issues with the motor mount screws I can tighten them down but then I cant slide the motor in the motor mount it gets hung up on the slider so I can never have the inside screw closeist to the center diff tightend all the way, or the front of the can on the motor is binding against the motor mount..

I've tryed leaving it loose then sliding the motor in and cranking it down then doing the outside screw but then I can mesh the the pinion and spur because it doesnt move. So currently have to have it as tight as I can get it slide it in mesh the spur and then crank down the outside screw. I haven't had a issue yet cause the top screw keeps the motor in place, but it has a little up and down play..

I was thinking of taking the center diff off the truck to try and figure a way to get that inside one cranked down but im not sure if there's a way. This happened with my Tekin pro 4 and castle 3800kv, It's almost like it was shaved a couple thousandths to much so it the front of the motor is binding on the aluminum motor mount.
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Old 11-23-2011, 11:11 AM
  #24727  
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replacing my scews with a Tonys Screws kit:

the body mounts have issues: LOSA6236 is not listed in the manual , I know they are 2-56x1/2" button head but I cannot find them in the Tonys kit either

also
LOSA6256 the manual lists as 4-40x1/2" with they obviously are not, they are also 2-56x1/2, also not in my Tonys kit

are these sizes correct and did you get them in the tonys kit?
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:26 PM
  #24728  
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My SCTE should be here Friday and I hadn't really thought much about my wheels/tires.

Currently I have quite a few sets of SC wheels/tires that are mounted on Slash Front offset wheels due to me previously having a Jammin and Nexx10.

Running these on the SCTE will they make it wider or narrower?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:57 PM
  #24729  
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Originally Posted by teknic View Post
Currently I have quite a few sets of SC wheels/tires that are mounted on Slash Front offset wheels due to me previously having a Jammin and Nexx10.

Running these on the SCTE will they make it wider or narrower?
Wider, you will have problems with body clearance.
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Old 11-23-2011, 02:01 PM
  #24730  
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Originally Posted by cobraman View Post
I mounted a Tekin Pro 4 4000kv with no problem, but when I mounted a 4600 I experienced the same issue you describe. I just placed two thin washers between the motor and the mount so I could tighten down on both screws. Doing so didn't cause any issues with gear mesh or alignment at the spur/pinion.
Thanks for the trick I'll have to find some washers and see whats going to work.

Happy early thanksgiving,


we just got hit with snow so now more running my truck outdoors and our indoor dirt track is still having issues with getting permits from the city... I may have to run on carpet in the open class at this other shop which isnt fun cause there's like 2 tiny wooden jumps.
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by MMor101 View Post
What length sensor wire are you guys running?
You can Run As low as 100mm if you choose. I prefer Super Soft Wires Vs the Stock Stiff jobby's you get with most motor's/ESC's.

Originally Posted by cobraman View Post
I mounted a Tekin Pro 4 4000kv with no problem, but when I mounted a 4600 I experienced the same issue you describe. I just placed two thin washers between the motor and the mount so I could tighten down on both screws. Doing so didn't cause any issues with gear mesh or alignment at the spur/pinion.


While it may not seem like a problem, In reality it is. You have somewhat removed the Ability for the motor to dissipate heat into the Center diff mount and In turn To the Chassis. I would advise you get the proper length screw's and loose the washer's. Remove the Front bell and mount up the Slider and you'll be guaranteed to have the proper length screw's.
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:00 PM
  #24732  
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Originally Posted by Mototech View Post
Anyone having to go up in shock oil after converting to emulsion? With the same weight oil I had to go up one spring to get the ride height the same. Even then the collars were 3/4 of the way down. Checked for binding with the shocks off and there is none. Thanks.
Anyone?
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Old 11-23-2011, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Mototech View Post
Anyone?
That sounds about right, you probably had some rebound in your shocks before.
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Old 11-23-2011, 05:27 PM
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[/QUOTE] While it may not seem like a problem, In reality it is. You have somewhat removed the Ability for the motor to dissipate heat into the Center diff mount and In turn To the Chassis. I would advise you get the proper length screw's and loose the washer's. Remove the Front bell and mount up the Slider and you'll be guaranteed to have the proper length screw's.[/QUOTE]

You may be correct about the heat dissipation, but it has nothing to do with the correct length of screws, but rather a slight tolerance variance that causes the motor/slide mount to bind with the fixed portion of the motor mount and not allow it to slide all the way in for proper gear mesh.

I have many packs through mine with the thin washers and have no heat issues, so for me it works.

Last edited by cobraman; 11-23-2011 at 08:14 PM.
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Old 11-23-2011, 05:56 PM
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Just spent 100$ replacing wear and tear parts on my truck. Feels good "refreshing Up" to make it feel new again

I have to say, the most worn out parts on my truck was the tie rod balls. They were so worn they fell out of the end rods by them selves lol.
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