Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
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Tech Addict
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I went with the BCE, immediate difference.
I dont think you could go wrong with any of the 3 bump. BCE or TLR. TLR requires you to still use the diff spacer under the center diff in order to plug the nitro holes. The BCE requires you to buy some extra screws (shorter screws) because you can remove that spacer and the bump I think comes with the extra screws. Do a search on here so you know what to buy and have them ready for installing the chassis if you go with the BCE.
I dont think you could go wrong with any of the 3 bump. BCE or TLR. TLR requires you to still use the diff spacer under the center diff in order to plug the nitro holes. The BCE requires you to buy some extra screws (shorter screws) because you can remove that spacer and the bump I think comes with the extra screws. Do a search on here so you know what to buy and have them ready for installing the chassis if you go with the BCE.

My BCE came with the shorter screws for the center diff.

Im going to have to agree also, I was asking a few question's in prep to buying a Mount and was basically brushed off by Brandon when i asked a few Generic question's.
I went with the BCE, immediate difference.
I dont think you could go wrong with any of the 3 bump. BCE or TLR. TLR requires you to still use the diff spacer under the center diff in order to plug the nitro holes. The BCE requires you to buy some extra screws (shorter screws) because you can remove that spacer and the bump I think comes with the extra screws. Do a search on here so you know what to buy and have them ready for installing the chassis if you go with the BCE.
I dont think you could go wrong with any of the 3 bump. BCE or TLR. TLR requires you to still use the diff spacer under the center diff in order to plug the nitro holes. The BCE requires you to buy some extra screws (shorter screws) because you can remove that spacer and the bump I think comes with the extra screws. Do a search on here so you know what to buy and have them ready for installing the chassis if you go with the BCE.
Actually you can run the holes plugged and the diff lowered, You just have to bust out the dremel and get Grinding a bit on the plastic and the diff will drop right in.

I've been having problems with the car suddenly braking. At first it was just once every now and then, for a split second, but yesterday at the track it escalated.. leading to my hobbywing sc8 dying on the track in a ball of smoke 
Here's how it looked on the inside after opening it up (hoping that it wouldnt be too bad.. lol)

2 months old with racing a couple of times every week. Ran with a 1410.
Installed the backup esc, a Hobbyking 120a esc directly after, alot less punch, but the brakes actually felt better.
Atleast I now have an excuse to get the Copperhead combo

Here's how it looked on the inside after opening it up (hoping that it wouldnt be too bad.. lol)

2 months old with racing a couple of times every week. Ran with a 1410.
Installed the backup esc, a Hobbyking 120a esc directly after, alot less punch, but the brakes actually felt better.
Atleast I now have an excuse to get the Copperhead combo


that should buff right out.
Tech Addict
iTrader: (19)

You can also just swap the long screws with the sort ones that hold the diff case/bulkhead too the chassis , the diff cases need the longer screws in them anyways IMO ....
Tech Addict
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http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-Chassis-SCTE
anyone running this chassis comes with screw kit?
anyone running this chassis comes with screw kit?
Tech Regular
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Ditto. Kevin has helped me the most out of anyone at the track with my setup and he happens to be one of the fastest/nicest guys there. I won't touch those mounts with a 10' pole.

I know Kevin pretty well myself and he is a straight shooter. So, I would believe what he says myself.