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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 11-05-2011, 08:44 AM
  #23836  
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The Delta vs Wye thing has been done to death by people more knowledgeable than us. For a quality motor with the same number of turns on all coils it makes no difference whether it is delta or wye. For cheap motors that have differing numbers of winds on any coil it can be a problem though if you have one of these is your car you have bigger issues. Since we tend to use very low numbers of turns it would be very unlikely you would get this though. For our purposes, copper fill and gearing are the biggest factors in determining the efficiency of our motors.
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Old 11-05-2011, 08:56 AM
  #23837  
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Originally Posted by namewasdallas View Post
I got a question,

Whats the difference between running the inside hole compaired to the outside hole on the rear hubs?

I run the AL setup but I've been running them on the inside hole instead of the outside, so would I get better traction running them outside?

I also run the spacers up front for more rear traction

Inboard Camber Location: The TEN-SCTE has two inner
camber link locations. These locations work in the same
fashion and have the same eff ect as noted for the front. You
will fi nd that you will get more noticeable changes with the
outer locations in the hub. In general the upper hole will make
the TEN-SCTE more stable and keep the front end fl atter. This
works well on higher traction surfaces. The lower location will
make the steering more aggressive which works well on lower
traction surfaces. This can be good in some conditions but can
also make the TEN-SCTE diffi cult to drive in others.
Outboard Camber Location: Running the camber link in the
inside position on the hub will generate more rotation entering
a turn, but decrease steering on exit. Running the camber link
in the furthest outer position on the hub will generate more
stability entering a turn and increase steering on exit.
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Old 11-05-2011, 10:25 AM
  #23838  
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Originally Posted by BashemSmashem View Post
The SCTE is too heavy for 1406 motors , the 1410 has a larger rotor which gives it the torque needed to pull the SCTE's weight .

The 1406 motors have the standard size rotors that 540 motors use and dont have as much torque and will heat up quickly as omenwolf found out ....
Although this is probably true for most, it is not true for me.
I ran a CC/Neu 1406/1Y 4600kv motor in the SCTE and the only problem I experienced was the shaft not holding up, so I fixed that problem and it works just fine for me and was what I was running before the PRO 4 (4600kv) came out
Another one that I run with no probs neither is a Neu 1406/3Y on 4s in the SCTE
I do not recommend this to all but for those who know what they are doing and have lightened up their rigs but honestly now that the PRO 4's are out it isn't a great solution anymore.
I only ran the CC/Neu 1406/1Y 4600kv w/5mm shaft because at the time their was nothing else with enough snap for me, this has changed with my PRO 4 4600kv.
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Old 11-05-2011, 04:09 PM
  #23839  
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What's the best way to cut away the radio box without messing up the stands for the servo. I assume you need to be careful you don't weaken the structure. Pics?
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:00 PM
  #23840  
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ok, lost my 3rd center/front driveshaft. ready to try packing the coupler with grease for the next one. will associated black grease work for this?
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:12 PM
  #23841  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
ok, lost my 3rd center/front driveshaft. ready to try packing the coupler with grease for the next one. will associated black grease work for this?
I use that. I also had some seized bearings in the front tranny - I stopped breaking the front coupler after putting in some decent bearings.
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:14 PM
  #23842  
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
I use that. I also had some seized bearings in the front tranny - I stopped breaking the front coupler after putting in some decent bearings.
bearings don't have anything to do with it. it's the angle of the driveshaft that is the issue.
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:17 PM
  #23843  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
bearings don't have anything to do with it. it's the angle of the driveshaft that is the issue.
If a bearing is seized your going to have the motor applying force to a drive shaft that cannot move as freely as it should. I'm not saying its the only cause - only that when I pulled them I stopped busting the coupler. YMMV
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:19 PM
  #23844  
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
If a bearing is seized your going to have the motor applying force to a drive shaft that cannot move as freely as it should. I'm not saying its the only cause - only that when I pulled them I stopped busting the coupler. YMMV
how were you busting the coupler?
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:27 PM
  #23845  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
ok, lost my 3rd center/front driveshaft. ready to try packing the coupler with grease for the next one. will associated black grease work for this?
Yes it will,have not had a problem since going to grease it just seems to attract more dirt
Should work jus fine till the new ones start to show
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:39 PM
  #23846  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK View Post
how were you busting the coupler?
The pin in the coupler.
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:47 PM
  #23847  
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Originally Posted by BmainStar View Post
Yes it will,have not had a problem since going to grease it just seems to attract more dirt
Should work jus fine till the new ones start to show
cool. thanks.
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Old 11-05-2011, 06:07 PM
  #23848  
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Smile VW Full Fender Baja Bug Body



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Old 11-05-2011, 09:47 PM
  #23849  
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Which JConcepts body best fits the SCTE?
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Old 11-05-2011, 09:52 PM
  #23850  
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Originally Posted by JayRC66 View Post


How does that look with the wheels on, and how are the clearances with the tires and body?
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