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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 10-20-2011, 11:05 AM
  #22906  
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Originally Posted by Feint Motion View Post
Not sure if you guys are just talking about 4000kv in general or just for the Tekin pro for but. I'm Easily the fastest guy at my track with a Tenshock 4000kv. Geared @ 15 150 degrees all day on 2s. 1/8thscale tracks.
Even have to tune down my esc, so much power. lol

If your running a 4000kv and you think its S-L-O-W Gear up.
Feint...

When are we going to see you at West Coast ? Come out and race indoors against some of the fastest drivers around. Maybe next week after the race on Saturday.
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Old 10-20-2011, 11:34 AM
  #22907  
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Originally Posted by Bondonutz View Post
It seems to go against all BL logic to choose the 4600 for the smaller tracks when the lower KV motors should be ideally be the better choice regardless of wind and another pound in weight ? How are the buyers to know this when Tekin reps or the website doesn't clarify this, hence why bother with the 4000 at all. StPete40 made his purchase for the 4000 and I agreed that is was the sounder choice for our smaller local tracks, If all this crap is true then that kinda blows for him and his wallet ?
You made me thinking I guess the lower kv motors may have advantages in the left-right balance area. I think it would be a minor difference, but you may feel it better, but it is just a guess, it might even be worse. Another possibilty is that the 4600 might require too small pinion for the desired speed, there's about two tooth difference between those two motors.
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Old 10-20-2011, 11:35 AM
  #22908  
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Originally Posted by Mike1977 View Post
how does the lightened truck handle? does it become easier or harder to drive I have a small track at my house we run on 60x35. wondering if its worth it ?
This OPINION is coming from a guy who could not understand why anyone would want to lighten the SCTE because I thought the fat pig handled better than anything I have ever driven. With that being said my truck used to weigh in at 6lbs. 8oz w/o the body, now it weighs in at 5lbs. 12oz w/o the body and I love it more that I ever have. Running less weight on the same tires gived you more traction. The track i run on is mainly hard packed clay with sand so it can get very slippery. The lighter truck doesn't have as much a tendency to slide as much. I am running the BCE chassis, lightned outdrives, and TLR tuning kit. It has the 4600 tekin motor, mmp esc and gensace 2s, 50c, hardcase packs. 5lbs.12oz. is with the battery and wheels, minus the body. I am running the Hot Bodies Megabites on de racing wheels.
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Old 10-20-2011, 11:40 AM
  #22909  
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Originally Posted by lbckevin View Post
Feint...

When are we going to see you at West Coast ? Come out and race indoors against some of the fastest drivers around. Maybe next week after the race on Saturday.
Its a bit of a drive for me, Me being in the IE. Would like to be down there in the next few weeks. It will be a big change from what the tracks I'm used to running. Should be fun.
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Old 10-20-2011, 11:41 AM
  #22910  
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Originally Posted by Bondonutz View Post
It seems to go against all BL logic to choose the 4600 for the smaller tracks when the lower KV motors should be ideally be the better choice regardless of wind and another pound in weight ? How are the buyers to know this when Tekin reps or the website doesn't clarify this, hence why bother with the 4000 at all. StPete40 made his purchase for the 4000 and I agreed that is was the sounder choice for our smaller local tracks, If all this crap is true then that kinda blows for him and his wallet ?
I opted to go with the 4600 motor simply because it is a wye wind motor. Personally I believe the 4000 is the perfect KV as it would put you as close to 30,000 rpms as possible on 2s. The 4000 is a delta wind motor which is generally less efficient than a wye. I believe the perfect motor would be a 4000kv that is a wye wind, unfortunately with the size of the Tekin motor it is not possible. If you notice Castle only sells wye wind motors because of the in efficiency of a D wind. I believe Tekin has done an outstanding job with their 3300 and 4000 as D winds since no one seems to be having any problems with runtime or heat. I would love to have a 4000 to test against my 4600, geared comprable of course.
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:35 PM
  #22911  
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Originally Posted by srvoodoo View Post
Hi guys!
...did a search but couldn't find an answer...
I just ran two battery packs on my brand new truck in practice & broke the center rear drive shaft inside the coupler. has anyone else had this problem?
Is there a known issue with them?...going to call Horizon today but thought I'd check here too.
thanks!
Mike
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p.s sorry if this has already been addressed & i missed it
That is not typical at all for a new truck, give Losi a call and we will get you a new one.

Originally Posted by Mike1977 View Post
What about modding the battery tray and or moving the battery towards the center of the chassis?
yeah, the battery track is thick and rigid. You can mod that and be just fine.
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:37 PM
  #22912  
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I been bouncing back and forth between both the 4000 and 4600 tekin motors, would like the 4600 but wondering how low it has to be geared, the elite motor mount will only let you gear down to a 13 tooth pinion. How low has anyone had to gear using this motor?
I will do the 4000 if I have to but would like a little extra rip. there have been times were I wished the 3800 castle had a little more on the top end.
last time I tried to gear the castle for a little more top end (16 tooth pinion) I fried my dean conector from both sides.
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:41 PM
  #22913  
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Originally Posted by wcrase101 View Post
I been bouncing back and forth between both the 4000 and 4600 tekin motors, would like the 4600 but wondering how low it has to be geared, the elite motor mount will only let you gear down to a 13 tooth pinion. How low has anyone had to gear using this motor?
I will do the 4000 if I have to but would like a little extra rip. there have been times were I wished the 3800 castle had a little more on the top end.
last time I tried to gear the castle for a little more top end (16 tooth pinion) I fried my dean conector from both sides.
13 is the lowest I've geared it at. I'm planning on running 13T on most small to medium tracks and maybe bump up to 14-15 for large 1/8 scale tracks.
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:54 PM
  #22914  
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hi all,
been running my truck twice
all i can say is: top class
changed shock towers to CF
truck is PLANTED
really happy with it
might try a 3s pack soon
enjoy the WE
V
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by vasidudu View Post
hi all,
been running my truck twice
all i can say is: top class
changed shock towers to CF
truck is PLANTED
really happy with it
might try a 3s pack soon
enjoy the WE
V
awesome man
glad you enjoy it
i love mine too
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Old 10-20-2011, 01:01 PM
  #22916  
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Originally Posted by rob martin View Post
Not having to go thru 1500 pages what are the absolute needed upgrades on this truck.i see alot of guys are running the bce chassis and the tlr tuning kit. Anything else to know? Thanks.
My personal opinion is that nothing is absolutely needed. I have run the truck straight out of the box with only changing out the diff grease for silicone and the truck is awesome.

Carbon fiber shock towers at least for the rear are pretty important if you land on your lid from time to time. The stocker in the rear at least bends pretty quickly. Other than that, if you want the best bang for the buck, but the Losi (TLR) upgrade kit. For $129 I think it is, you get a load of hop ups and it includes the carbon shock towers and many other goodies.
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Old 10-20-2011, 01:07 PM
  #22917  
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Built the emulsion shocks last night and they feel buttery smooth now, i cant wait to track it again!!
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Old 10-20-2011, 01:09 PM
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I'm gonna have to keep an eye on the cvd's of my kids truck. I just don't understand all the failures of the center cvd's. My little plastic sleeves have never shown any wear and after a summer of racing, probably 10 race days or so with practices in there as well, I just replaced my whole drivetrain but it really didn't need it. My pins at the front and rear haven't even worn enough to consider moving them to the alternate holes and the pins at the other ends that go into the outdrives look barely worn. The front is a bit worn due to the angle, but even it really didn't need to be replaced, I just wanted to freshen the whole truck so I did.

I'm wondering if there was a bad batch from the supplier because more than one person has reported it, but knock on wood, mine have been great. I do use a teflon lube meant for bicycle cables on the joint where it attaches to the gear in the bulkhead, maybe that is the reason, but for whatever reason, they have hardly worn at all.
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Old 10-20-2011, 01:10 PM
  #22919  
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Originally Posted by Littlejohn Dsgn View Post
To the guys that have lightened the stock chassis got pics or info as to where you made your reliefs? Not sure I will be doing this but it would be nice to know if I ever get a new chassis and decide to test this out on the stocker.
I wouldn't suggest lightening the stock chassis. When we make milled chassis, we have to use a stronger grade of Alum to avoid bending/failures so I am confident you may have issues if you mill the stock Chassis.

Pacific Coast Hobbies (pchobbies.com) have the TLR Lightened Chassis instock, so give them a call @ 310-530-7127 if you are looking for one.
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Old 10-20-2011, 01:20 PM
  #22920  
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I am running the stock chassis right now and see nothing wrong with it, in time I might upgrade it, at which point just for $h!ts and giggles I might try to mill out the stock chassis (I enjoy making and modifying my own parts) so I was just looking for feedback from people who have already done this.
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