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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 10-19-2011, 11:19 AM
  #22786  
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just curious,

wondering since the new gears have little more teeth area wondering if that would be enough to change how the diffs are tuned as far as diff oil weight?

just something I was curious about
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:28 AM
  #22787  
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What, if anything have you guys been doing to limit/lessen the slop in the steering of this truck?

thanks in advance.
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Lap Traffic View Post
What, if anything have you guys been doing to limit/lessen the slop in the steering of this truck?

thanks in advance.
I'm waiting on the hardened ball ends similar to the one that comes with the torque rod.
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Lap Traffic View Post
What, if anything have you guys been doing to limit/lessen the slop in the steering of this truck?

thanks in advance.
I found all of my rod ends/pivot balls to be extremely sloppy after some run time. Replacing them, along with the shock shaft ends, cleaned it up alot. Tighten the servo saver. Check the the servo am to make sure it is tight. A very small amount of slop on the servo will create alot of movement at the tires. Other than that, it inherently has some play in it that isn't going to go away.
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by SoCal Jared View Post
I'm waiting on the hardened ball ends similar to the one that comes with the torque rod.
Hardened balls?
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:37 AM
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I asked if Losi was gonna hook us up because something was said about "as replacements" sorry, got crossed up!
But, that being said, I was under the impression that this was a forum for questions about the scte, so, I asked a question. I have had no durability issues with the diffs, but I know three guys locally who sold their scte's because of heating issues and such, I've been fortunate and haven't had the problem. Maybe some people were luckier than I, but right from day one, the mesh of the diff gears were poor, but worked fine, I purchased another complete set as backup, and the mesh of those were also poor, as in comparison to many other diffs I've built. I wasn't looking to "swat the wasps nest" just looking for some info, I thought that maybe the gear mesh was causing increased drag/resistance/heat in some of these vehicles, I also wasn't looking for a handout from Losi, just a solution!
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:38 AM
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Have you guys noticed the hinge pins in the rear arms are tight. Tight to the point where the suspension does not rebound back up. I had to drill them out some to get them to move freely.
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:44 AM
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This truck is heavy. No argument there and is a major reason for motor heat issues. You have to get the motor geared properly and not get too agressive with ESC settings. Getting a good 550 or 4 pole setup in the truck and you can really get them to move and keep temps in check but you have to get your stuff setup right. I don't see how diff gears can cause motor heat but I have been suprised in how some thing correlate in the past so who knows. Yes the current ten diffs are not the smoothest out there but they do work well and hold up to abuse fine. New kits and replacement gears from here on out should feel a lot better.
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by TheRevolution View Post
I asked if Losi was gonna hook us up because something was said about "as replacements" sorry, got crossed up!
But, that being said, I was under the impression that this was a forum for questions about the scte, so, I asked a question. I have had no durability issues with the diffs, but I know three guys locally who sold their scte's because of heating issues and such, I've been fortunate and haven't had the problem. Maybe some people were luckier than I, but right from day one, the mesh of the diff gears were poor, but worked fine, I purchased another complete set as backup, and the mesh of those were also poor, as in comparison to many other diffs I've built. I wasn't looking to "swat the wasps nest" just looking for some info, I thought that maybe the gear mesh was causing increased drag/resistance/heat in some of these vehicles, I also wasn't looking for a handout from Losi, just a solution!
I agree with you. I noticed the same thing as well. Even the updated Losi hardened pins are starting to wear. Now I know things wear after time but diff ring and pinion gears are something that should last a long time. I am a huge AE fan because of there diffs. How often do you hear of Factory team drivers replacing there diffs due to wear. Almost never and I run my truggies on 5-6 cell for almost 2 years now and I still use the same diffs with the same internals. When I read that there was a new mold I assumed new diffs would be given to the people with the old ones. It just like when HPI came out with the flux and people had diff failures left and right. They went back to R & D and made the bullet proof diffs and replaced everyone's at no cost. To this day they still honer that. Nothing against Losi as this is my first Losi vehicle but having to pay 50$ for pins and shims is kind of ridiculous.
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:45 AM
  #22795  
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Originally Posted by SoCal Jared View Post
I'm waiting on the hardened ball ends similar to the one that comes with the torque rod.
Originally Posted by StPete40 View Post
I found all of my rod ends/pivot balls to be extremely sloppy after some run time. Replacing them, along with the shock shaft ends, cleaned it up alot. Tighten the servo saver. Check the the servo am to make sure it is tight. A very small amount of slop on the servo will create alot of movement at the tires. Other than that, it inherently has some play in it that isn't going to go away.
Thanks guys. This is my first trip down Losi Road and I understand if the pivot balls aren't sloppy, it wouldn't be a Losi.

I have replaced some of the rod ends with Ofna pieces. There seems to be quite a bit of play in the ackerman mountings.
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by StPete40 View Post
I found all of my rod ends/pivot balls to be extremely sloppy after some run time. Replacing them, along with the shock shaft ends, cleaned it up alot. Tighten the servo saver. Check the the servo am to make sure it is tight. A very small amount of slop on the servo will create alot of movement at the tires. Other than that, it inherently has some play in it that isn't going to go away.
My rod ends are pretty blown out as well but I dont mind it, since we race on the super high traction surface I've found my truck isn't so twitchy and has become easier to drive. As long as it still tracks straight down the straighaway I'm rolling with it for a few more outing's befor I replace them all. Especially if I'm still winning
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by TheRevolution View Post
I asked if Losi was gonna hook us up because something was said about "as replacements" sorry, got crossed up!
But, that being said, I was under the impression that this was a forum for questions about the scte, so, I asked a question. I have had no durability issues with the diffs, but I know three guys locally who sold their scte's because of heating issues and such, I've been fortunate and haven't had the problem. Maybe some people were luckier than I, but right from day one, the mesh of the diff gears were poor, but worked fine, I purchased another complete set as backup, and the mesh of those were also poor, as in comparison to many other diffs I've built. I wasn't looking to "swat the wasps nest" just looking for some info, I thought that maybe the gear mesh was causing increased drag/resistance/heat in some of these vehicles, I also wasn't looking for a handout from Losi, just a solution!
The gist of it is that the new gears are better-but-not-better, and you have to wait until the new kids get theirs before we can have ours.
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Old 10-19-2011, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Bondonutz View Post
My rod ends are pretty blown out as well but I dont mind it, since we race on the super high traction surface I've found my truck isn't so twitchy and has become easier to drive. As long as it still tracks straight down the straighaway I'm rolling with it for a few more outing's befor I replace them all. Especially if I'm still winning
Even Charlie Sheen stopped winning! I'm gunning for you bro!
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by AEracer888 View Post
Would you guys recommend the MMP motor and esc setup for this car? and what kv is better 2400 or 3800?
Depends on whether you are racing or bashing. If you are bashing, then the Castle setup is great. If you are racing then I believe the extra money for a sensored motor is well worth it. Sucks that something like a Tekin Pro4 motor is almost 3 times the cost of the Castle 3800 but the first time you loose a race because your car starts rolling backwards and will not go until it comes to a dead stop you will be wishing you spent the extra on the sensored motor. Also, a sensored motor has a much smoother throttle band and is consistent. Unsensored is more like an on/off switch.

Now the MMP esc is a fine choice. Cheap and works well. You may need a cap or external BEC, but I've seen the same thing needed on the Tekin RX8's.
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Divey View Post
Have you guys noticed the hinge pins in the rear arms are tight. Tight to the point where the suspension does not rebound back up. I had to drill them out some to get them to move freely.
The inner pins in my rear arms are tight but the major binding came from the arms being tight against the hinge pin blocks. I trimmed some off the arms and now the hinge pins rotate freely in the plastic inserts of the aluminum blocks.
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