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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 10-18-2011, 11:19 AM
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This Tekin 4600 is the first sensored motor I have spent a considerable amout of time driving. I have always liked my Castle and Steve Neu motors. With that being said the only advantage I give a sensored motor is when I crash(which isn't very much), if I spin out and the car ends up rolling backwards, with a sensored motor I simply hit the throttle and the car will pull forward before it comes to a complete stop. With a non sensored motor the car has to come to a complete stop before the motor will change direction and drive forward. I find both motors just as smooth from a rolling start, which makes since, since the sensor only works at startup.
Bottom line is I really like all 3 motors I spoke of, but It is nice having the added insurance that comes with a sensored knowing I wont have to stand and watch my car roll backwards from time to time.
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:22 AM
  #22682  
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Originally Posted by Bondonutz View Post
I wholeheartedly believe that sensored has no more power than unsensored provideing both have the same KV, comparing the Tekin 4000 to the Castle 3800 isn't exactly a fair comparison even tho it's pretty close.
From all my years in BL and reading arcticles, posts etc UNsensored is slightly more efficent than sensored, It may be minute but thats what I feel is true.

STPETE40; I still have that Beta motor in my possesion that will do everything the 4600 Pro4 can do and plan on testing it again when we hit the 1/8scale track.
Very true, because the sensored is doing more work. The motor and esc are communicating back and forth when sensored is on.
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:29 AM
  #22683  
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Originally Posted by alvinsmith75 View Post
Very true, because the sensored is doing more work. The motor and esc are communicating back and forth when sensored is on.
Thanks
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:33 AM
  #22684  
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike View Post
It's not any more expensive now a days. Take a quick search when looking up 4 poles and esc's.
Cost is everything to a lot of folks, especially beginners in this hobby. Sensored without a doubt more costly, to some it doesn't matter, to some like myself just feel it's unnessasary extra expense for weekend racing.
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Bondonutz View Post
Sensored has it's place and obviously so does sensorless, I see no reason to bash any sensorless combo especially if they've proven to work well in the hands of the owner/driver? Granted a lot of folks have had some probs with thier ESC's regardless of brands (I seen many many RX8's go up in smoke when first released just like the M.M.M. years back) But vast majority of users will never admit to user errors or poor set ups.

I'm no Po but I do run well (got a A-main win last week) but I see no disadvantage of a properly set up sensorless combo. Both my indoor and outdoor SCTE's run butter smooth on our local indoor tracks and they are small and very technical. I have zero issues with cogging, dead spots or power inconsistantcy's. Hell, my MMP's are several yrs old and running a Spektrum 6040HS servo's with a cap only to boot. Yay Castle IMHO
I have not driven most of the sensorless motors out there. I just know what I felt with my 8th scale. It was not something that was drastic or could not be compensated for but I could tell the motor was not responding as consistant to throttle input for jumping as I would have liked it to. Sensored motors are just more consistant. This is not say sensorless does not work or even work well. There are a lot of very good sensorless systems but like Randy said it has been proven many times sensored producess better more consistant lap times. The level of experience you have will determine if that means anything to you. Again given a choice I will always pick sensored as it is better. Is sensorless good enough. Sure it may be most people and applications.

Originally Posted by Bob Moore View Post
Casper maybe you can help....
I am running a SCTE with a Teking 4.5 550 motor with a LRP SXXTC I have the drag brake and brake all the way down as well as the Power/Punch set at 1.
I am geared at 13/40
The truck is very fast and can make 10 min mains on a 6200 lipo

What would the advantage be going to a 540 4600 motor?


Just wondering if it is a huge difference in motors.
Thanks for any info you can give me.
The Pro 4 motors will have a little more bottom end and a little more overall power. They are also ~2.5oz lighter. 550 motors a little softer on the bottom but as good or maybe slightly better top. The guys testing showed slight improved runtime with the 540 motors but could be some weight and some design.


Originally Posted by Bondonutz View Post
I wholeheartedly believe that sensored has no more power than unsensored provideing both have the same KV, comparing the Tekin 4000 to the Castle 3800 isn't exactly a fair comparison even tho it's pretty close.
From all my years in BL and reading arcticles, posts etc UNsensored is slightly more efficent than sensored, It may be minute but thats what I feel is true.

STPETE40; I still have that Beta motor in my possesion that will do everything the 4600 Pro4 can do and plan on testing it again when we hit the 1/8scale track.
I feel in general sensorless are faster. They are not restricted by the sensor. I have seen sensored motors on motor testers. They hit a max RPM and stay there. The sensors control the max RPM. You don't have this control in sensorless so they can spin up a little higher. All the raw speed guys run sensorless for this reason. I am not bashing sensorless here. Again there are many great systems out there that work great. They cost little less and are more then capable of getting the job done. It is hard to argue that sensored is not better though from a control/consistancy stance. One of the cool features of the RX8 is the D2 mode that switches between these two modes to give a best of both worlds. There are other speedo's that do this as well but most are one or the other.

Last edited by Casper; 10-18-2011 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:42 AM
  #22686  
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@ Casper

A very civilized post, thank you. Good to see someone state facts and opinons rather than just spouting off "sensorless blows" etc etc like a typical fan boy.
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:48 AM
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Thanks.
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:58 AM
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If a motor had all windings identical, no variance in an clearances, perfect balance, perfect magnet spacing, perfect flux fields and the hall sensors were all identical then sensored would probably be more efficient. Sensorless allows for all of these imperfections by firing the coils at the correct time regardless. With the correct timing once a sensorless motor is at sufficient speed it will be more efficient. Sensored motors will always be more efficient (and consistent like casper says) at very low motor speeds.
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Bondonutz View Post
I wholeheartedly believe that sensored has no more power than unsensored provideing both have the same KV, comparing the Tekin 4000 to the Castle 3800 isn't exactly a fair comparison even tho it's pretty close.
From all my years in BL and reading arcticles, posts etc UNsensored is slightly more efficent than sensored, It may be minute but thats what I feel is true.

STPETE40; I still have that Beta motor in my possesion that will do everything the 4600 Pro4 can do and plan on testing it again when we hit the 1/8scale track.
Well, you're correct because I have run my tenshock 4000kv / SC8 combo (unsensored) vs my club presidient's Tekin pro4 4000kv/rx8 (sensored)combo, and guess what? Not a lick faster. Dead even down the 150 ft. or so straight. Neither had an inch on the other. im on 13T pinion, and he's on a 14T. So, some will scoff, I've seen it, and it's true. No noticeable difference in ability to clear jumps, run up, nothing. Maybe a smidge smoother at lower, VERY low speeds, but aside from that, meh.
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:27 PM
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Going from sensorless to sensored, made a hugh difference at slow speed. It went from skipping in the corners to smooth sweeping in the corners. I will never go back to sensorless. I suppose thats why they are priced different. If you havent tried it, you should. Just like DSM2, just adds more control.

Salad, good to see you did what was right.
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:29 PM
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I have seen it stated in this thread that the Losi Team racers use the plastic front chassis brace and in the rear use the torque rod. Could someone tell me why the plastic brace is used in the front over the aluminum one?
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Old 10-18-2011, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JASF4I View Post
When is it, Whats the track like?
Sent you a pm on it.

and thanks bashem for the info.
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Old 10-18-2011, 01:03 PM
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Thanks Casper for the straight forward answer.

Nice to have someone like yourself on her giving there time to help all of us out.
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Old 10-18-2011, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by isarctard View Post
I have seen it stated in this thread that the Losi Team racers use the plastic front chassis brace and in the rear use the torque rod. Could someone tell me why the plastic brace is used in the front over the aluminum one?
Personally, I went back to stock plastic because its a bit lighter. 5 grams or so I believe, if I remember correctly. I wieghed them myself beore the swwitch. Doesn't sound like much, and I'm not a weight nazi with this thing, but if I am going to shave weight, I want it off the front of this truck. Team drivers may have a different reason.
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Old 10-18-2011, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Cult Racing View Post
Just got these today: Losi Bolt on hexes (sorry for the dirt, ran it last night and havent had the chance to clean it yet.)

These look a lot like the ones on the losi crawler? Wonder if they are a different size?
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