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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 10-11-2011, 01:43 PM
  #21976  
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Yeah, it totally depends on the track. On a small track, 3S is ridiculous.
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Old 10-11-2011, 02:01 PM
  #21977  
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Originally Posted by dany5 View Post
will this work

LOSB2222 - Losi Front & Rear Sway Bar Kit (Ten-T)
Yeppers, thats the one.

As for the 2s, 3s thing...I think this is about the 3rd go around on this one on this thread...haha. I still feel that with this being a 10th scale vehicle, it should stay 2s. However, the 10 minute races are too long at this point for the current technolgies. I know this truck can handle 3s, so thats not what I am saying, heck, I have put 4s in it, lol, but they have plenty of power with existing systems. I have run the same 2 packs in my truck and same motor and esc for the last year or so and have had no problems.
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Old 10-11-2011, 02:02 PM
  #21978  
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Higher voltage does not mean faster speeds.

It is only faster if you don't use the appropriate kv motor. I raced a 4x4 race with a castle 2400/3s and it wasn't any faster than the 550 4.5s on 2s.

2s is the defacto standard with 1/10 because the class/rules have not caught up with the technology. The rules for the most part still haven't evolved hence the short mains and fragile cars.

If we stick to running 6 to 8 minute mains, I guess 2s is fine. I just know a lot of us rather run 10 minutes though and during the summer our 1/8 tracks are power hogs. 4x4 SCTE is kind of like a mini-truggy class for us locally... even at the nitro races, we have a 4x4 SCT class now they are getting so popular.
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Old 10-11-2011, 02:10 PM
  #21979  
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OmenWolf thanks for the pictures and the info, I just got my Savox SC1258 Servo installed so now im just waiting on some Mod 1 Pinions I orderd and my radio and receiver.


What mounting locations in the shock tower and arms are people running up front and in the rear??

Also does anyone use the Losi race spring kit??? if so which springs seem to work best?
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Old 10-11-2011, 02:15 PM
  #21980  
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I run a Neu 1406/3Y (1850kv) on 4s with not too much of a difference from a CC 1406/1Y (4600kv) on 2s.
Point is not everyone on here understands kv and V as it relates to power.
The whole 2s rule just shows my last statement to be true as well, whether coming from ROAR or others, period.

I will say though, for those that don't understand what V to run with what kv, that we would see guys on the track with way too much power and can agree that it is a good thing there is a 2s rule for "that guy"

It just sucks for guys like me who are still waiting for others to catch up
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Old 10-11-2011, 02:18 PM
  #21981  
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Originally Posted by KingdomRacer View Post
I run a Neu 1406/3Y (1850kv) on 4s with not too much of a difference from a CC 1406/1Y (4600kv) on 2s.
Point is not everyone on here understands kv and V as it relates to power.
The whole 2s rule just shows my last statement to be true as well, whether coming from ROAR or others, period.
yes, but my point is, not everyone is going to be smart enough to tone it down, hence the rules. You know if 3s or 4s is allowed, people are going to show up with a 4600kv on 4s. So I guess I'm in agreement with what you are saying, but the rules are there for a reason.
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Old 10-11-2011, 02:23 PM
  #21982  
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Originally Posted by lowroad View Post
yes, but my point is, not everyone is going to be smart enough to tone it down, hence the rules. You know if 3s or 4s is allowed, people are going to show up with a 4600kv on 4s. So I guess I'm in agreement with what you are saying, but the rules are there for a reason.
I guess you saw my post before I edited.
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Old 10-11-2011, 02:55 PM
  #21983  
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Does anyone have any tips for building emulsion shocks? I can't seem to get it right. I bleed it like it shows in the video,oil comes out the bleed hole like it says it should, get the rebound set perfectly when I screw the cap down. But when I pull the piston down, I can screw the cap down further which increses the rebound. I have to be doing something wrong, but can't figure out what it is.
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:10 PM
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Default LOSI TEN SCTE CARBON FIBER PARTS.

HERE'S A COUPLE PICS OF SOME CARBON FIBER SPLASH GUARD'S IM MAKING. IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED PLEASE FOLLOW THE LINK TO MY EBAY PAGE. THANKS GUYS........GREAT PRICE TOO....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=300601653197

Last edited by jmc23; 06-01-2012 at 05:11 PM.
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:14 PM
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Default SHOCKS

Originally Posted by coffee View Post
Does anyone have any tips for building emulsion shocks? I can't seem to get it right. I bleed it like it shows in the video,oil comes out the bleed hole like it says it should, get the rebound set perfectly when I screw the cap down. But when I pull the piston down, I can screw the cap down further which increses the rebound. I have to be doing something wrong, but can't figure out what it is.
DID YOU DRILL THE HOLE IN THE CAPS YOURSELF OR ARE THEY FROM THE FACTORY LIKE THAT? HAD A FRIEND DRILL THE HOLE IN THE WRONG SPOT AND THEY WOULDNT BLEED PROPERLY. I USE THE EMULSION SHOCK MYSELF . AFTER ALOT OF DIFFERENT SETTINGS IVE FOUND A GOOD SET UP FOR MINE..
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:17 PM
  #21986  
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They are the factory drilled caps that came with the tuning kit.
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:22 PM
  #21987  
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Originally Posted by namewasdallas View Post
can someone post up a picture of a MMP mounted in the truck, I just got my scte today in the mail I dropped in my MMP but i really couldnt find a good way to mount it...

I also ran the ESC wire's that go to the receiver under the drive shaft and motor is that way or the way next to the battery first.

Also is everyones truck noisey as hell with the metal spur and pinion???
I guess im so use to my quite E-Firestorm and this thing sounds like a train
Here is how my wires are run. Keeps them out of the way and safe.

Actually, The photo doesnt show the completed install. I did make a tunnel for the wire to get to the clips. The wire runs under the tray plugs into an extension that is actually plugged into the receiver. This allows me remove the battery tray without having to get the wire out or back in the receiver box.
Attached Thumbnails Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-bionic-072.jpg   Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-bionic-079.jpg  

Last edited by Lon_L; 10-11-2011 at 03:38 PM.
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Old 10-11-2011, 03:34 PM
  #21988  
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Default SPLASH GUARDS

Originally Posted by Bondonutz View Post
Couple new bodies to represent











THANKS FOR THE GREAT WRITE UP. I REALLY DO APPRECIATE IT. IM GLAD YOU LIKE THEM. IM JUST AN AVERAGE GUY JUST TRYING TO GIVE BACK TO THE ADDICTING HOBBY I GOT INTO A FEW YEARS BACK. AS FOR THE OTHER GUY WHO COMMENTED AFTER YOU POSTED THE PICS AND WRITE UP, I DO SEE WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT. AFTER RACING THIS WEEKEND I CHECKED MINE AND THEY WERE FINE . I RUN FULL REAR DROOP ( FULLY EXTENDED ) ILL BOLT UP A NEW PAIR AND CHECK FOR CLEARANCE ISSUES BEFORE I SHIP ANYMORE UNITS OUT. THANKS AGAIN GUYS, IF THERE IS ANYTHING YOU GUYS NEED MADE UP PLEASE PM ME AND WE'LL TALK MORE. MOSTLY USING FLAT STOCK. CANNOT DO ANYTHING LIKE CHASSIS WITH KICK UP.

Last edited by jmc23; 06-01-2012 at 05:11 PM.
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Old 10-11-2011, 04:03 PM
  #21989  
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Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post
I agree, not to mention the stress put on the packs, ESC's and motors on 2S. I love 4wd SC, it's all I race but I feel it could be much better on 3S. We tested 3S for awhile and it was great, long run-times, manageable speed and low end. It's a ROAR thing, we the people have zero control over what they choose.
And THAT is a lot of where the problem lies - when racers are allowed to 'choose', safety goes out the window, expense goes out the window and the result becomes a hobby that is less affordable than it was 'last year'... AND, call me niave, but I believe that we DO have control over what ROAR publishes for rules - so in turn I would ask you what your involvement in the working/operating system of ROAR has been???? IF you don't like a system, why not work within it to change it??? Emphasis on WORK!!!!

Originally Posted by Asharus View Post
I prefer being able to use my 2S packs on all my 1/10th vehicles. I wouldn't mind going 3S though, with all of those added benefits.
So, with all those added benefits you would end up with pack or packs only usable in one 1/10th scale vehicle. PLUS, it's very short sighted to believe that if you add 3s today; why not add 4s tomorrow - then you could go REALLY FAST and have all of the issues that come with that including increased weight to break more faster.... (memo to self - you're swimming up stream here...)

Originally Posted by Bondonutz View Post
+1000 !
I think outdoor tracks should have a open class despite poopy "ROAR" rules to allow this.
2s packs is 6000+mah is still pushing the envelope on large track where as 3s set up could easily cruise thru with 5000mah or less with modest gearing and KV's. The set ups can easily be conservative and comparable to 2s power.

I have a NEU 1509 1820KV that would be perfect for this but Nooooooooooo, Roar can bite my azz.
AND, I have a NEU 1658 that I feel 'entitled' to run 'cause I think it would work really well for me - allowing me an unfair advantage and helping me mask my poor set up skills and even poorer driving skills. And heck, I was entitled to hit that 6 year old and break his ankle because he 'shouldn't' have been there....

Originally Posted by coffee View Post
Does anyone have any tips for building emulsion shocks? I can't seem to get it right. I bleed it like it shows in the video,oil comes out the bleed hole like it says it should, get the rebound set perfectly when I screw the cap down. But when I pull the piston down, I can screw the cap down further which increses the rebound. I have to be doing something wrong, but can't figure out what it is.
You can hold out for my explanation in the upcoming issue (01/12) of RC Driver! Or if you need it sooner, I'm sure you can thumb back a few pages 'cause I remember it being covered in this forum!

Guys, the word for it is ESCALATION - and it darned near got us into a nuclear war in the late 50s/early 60s. One guy wants 3s, the next wants 4s.. then someone wants 5s... see where this heads?? Without organization, kaos is the result. Bash ROAR as you may, but instead of BASHING, had you thought about volunteering??? Helping run a ROAR race??

Volunteer - someone may notice your extreme knowledge and great people skills and ask you to sit on a comittee that MAKES the rules - then you can express your opinion to those with a common cause, to provide a bit or order and organization to the sport we love!

So, instead of bitching about what some don't seem to be able to make work, why not work on solutions? Solutions to set up, solutions to efficiency so that you CAN run 6/8/10 minutes with your existing equipment....
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Old 10-11-2011, 04:12 PM
  #21990  
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Originally Posted by dany5 View Post
What temp are you seen with this setup and a 10 min main. Thanks
170 motor 100 esc 100 battery
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