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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 10-04-2011, 09:22 AM
  #21481  
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Originally Posted by Wheelman82
Im new to the electric sct after reading some posts im going with the Rx8 & Pro 4 4600kv motor what is a good lipo & charger set up for sct racing? thanks
I dont work for them but the price is right and there chargers are priced right. I have a couple of batteries and I make 10 min mains and a few extra laps to spare. try one>>

http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-10...-hardcase.html
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:35 AM
  #21482  
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When I converted my shocks to emulsion I put 32.5 in them and they felt really heavy to me.

Last night I went back to 27mm and -1 camber all the way around and I put the Purple springs on the front. I've got 3mm of limiters in the rear shocks. I'm going to add another 3mm before this weekend.

I'll try all of that out and if it still seems to have trouble I'll go to 32.5.




Originally Posted by suby723
Raise your shock oil up to 32.5 in losi or 30 in ae oil. Also 27mm front and rear with body on and -1 camber front and rear and slight toe out for the front wheels. Also running the stock eclipse tires in the front will give you slight push.
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:39 AM
  #21483  
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
When I converted my shocks to emulsion I put 32.5 in them and they felt really heavy to me.

Last night I went back to 27mm and -1 camber all the way around and I put the Purple springs on the front. I've got 3mm of limiters in the rear shocks. I'm going to add another 3mm before this weekend.

I'll try all of that out and if it still seems to have trouble I'll go to 32.5.
Use the droop screws vs adding limiters to the shocks so you can make faster adjustments. If you have a pit buddy that can adjust during a run to see how you like the changes you can do it with a 3/32 wrench and it takes a few seconds.
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:50 AM
  #21484  
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man I hat to give out the best set ups.... I like to win. but at the same time I cant stand it when someone has problems and cant figure it out. Chrisattabery Please try 20 w oil in your shocks # 3 in front 5 in the rear and get rid of the limiters. use the droup screws. set em at 95 mm in front and 104 in the rear. with the right sway bars the truck is like on rails. with the right tire for the track conditions. camber at -1 all the way around. orange in the back black in front springs. set ride height at 27 rear 29 front. try it.. if it doesn't work for ya call me a jerk. but it works for me and I have guys coming up to me asking for help at the track all the time..JMO and it works for me on big 1/8 th scale tracks big jumps and small tracks tooooooo. now someone tell me wrong lol

Last edited by chucko; 10-04-2011 at 09:51 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:50 AM
  #21485  
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Originally Posted by chucko
I dont work for them but the price is right and there chargers are priced right. I have a couple of batteries and I make 10 min mains and a few extra laps to spare. try one>>

http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-10...-hardcase.html
FYI these packs are simply 2 5000mah 40c packs bundled together and wired in parallel (hince 2s2p). 10,000mah is heavy and usually overkill in a race truck. Is is also capable of 400amps continous which is unheard of in offroad 10th scale racing. If you want 10,000mah in a race truck without the weight you can use 2 5000mah 20c packs wired in parallel and have more than enough mah and power to run 10 minutes. For 10 minute runs you could probably get away with 2 3000mah 30c packs in parallel, and you would save weight as well. DUH or just buy 1 6000mah lipo
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Old 10-04-2011, 09:51 AM
  #21486  
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I've played with the droop screws in the past and found them to be inconsistent. I would get the droop where I wanted it and then drop the truck 3-4 times and each time the droop was slightly different.

Maybe I will use the droop screws to find an initial setting and then use limiters when I am happy.
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Old 10-04-2011, 10:03 AM
  #21487  
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
I've played with the droop screws in the past and found them to be inconsistent. I would get the droop where I wanted it and then drop the truck 3-4 times and each time the droop was slightly different.

Maybe I will use the droop screws to find an initial setting and then use limiters when I am happy.
It helps to have button head screws or droop screws in the chassis so the droop scrwes don't dig in the chassis. If you find a droop setting you like then you can go the limiter route but like you said use the screws to find a happy spot and then limit the shocks if you like it that way but the screws will make it much easier and faster to find a setting you like.
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Old 10-04-2011, 10:05 AM
  #21488  
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
I've played with the droop screws in the past and found them to be inconsistent. I would get the droop where I wanted it and then drop the truck 3-4 times and each time the droop was slightly different.

Maybe I will use the droop screws to find an initial setting and then use limiters when I am happy.


Droop is measured with the wheels off the ground, Ride height is where your Dropping the car and checking the #'s.

+1 on what Casper said, The Droop screw in the chassis will greatly improve the consistency on the droop #'s your trying to acheive.
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Old 10-04-2011, 10:06 AM
  #21489  
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Originally Posted by SupermaxxRich
My truck weighs 5 pounds 14 ounces ready to race
I would like to know what this took also. I happened to bump into a video online of Cavaleri's SC10 4wd that showed 91.7oz on a scale, which is 5lb 12ish oz, so that's getting close enough for me as long as it isn't sacrificing durability.
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Old 10-04-2011, 10:10 AM
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Hey chucko,

What kind of surface are you running on? the 1/8th scale tracks out here are really dusty and loose.

I probably made it sound worse than it was. I was within .35 seconds of the winner's fast lap on Saturday. I was just inconsistent. I was having trouble with traction rolling on a sweeper. The track is like concrete with a little dust on the outside of the corners. Coming off power into the sweeper the back end would come around. Most of the time I caught it with a little throttle, a few times I waited too long and it caught an edge and traction rolled.

I've tried running without limiters and it made the truck traction roll even more. I moved the bottom of the rear shocks to the outer position and that helped. I think a little more limiter and a bit stiffer front end will help it push a bit more on entry and I should be OK.

I've seen a theme lately with the SCTE guys here. Most are running bald or hard tires (Duratrax, Losi Eclipse) in the front and Soft Enduros or BowFighters in the rear.

Thanks again,



Chris



Originally Posted by chucko
man I hat to give out the best set ups.... I like to win. but at the same time I cant stand it when someone has problems and cant figure it out.
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Old 10-04-2011, 10:16 AM
  #21491  
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Hard track with a little dust you guys try orange barcodes? They arn't going to last as long but taller pins will tend to fold and give inconsistant handling and traction rolling. A harder front tire will slide more and grab less and this might help as well.
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Old 10-04-2011, 10:19 AM
  #21492  
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
Hey chucko,

What kind of surface are you running on? the 1/8th scale tracks out here are really dusty and loose.

I probably made it sound worse than it was. I was within .35 seconds of the winner's fast lap on Saturday. I was just inconsistent. I was having trouble with traction rolling on a sweeper. The track is like concrete with a little dust on the outside of the corners. Coming off power into the sweeper the back end would come around. Most of the time I caught it with a little throttle, a few times I waited too long and it caught an edge and traction rolled.

I've tried running without limiters and it made the truck traction roll even more. I moved the bottom of the rear shocks to the outer position and that helped. I think a little more limiter and a bit stiffer front end will help it push a bit more on entry and I should be OK.

I've seen a theme lately with the SCTE guys here. Most are running bald or hard tires (Duratrax, Losi Eclipse) in the front and Soft Enduros or BowFighters in the rear.

Thanks again,



Chris
On a tight technical track we have found the opposite for tires. The locals I run with have had issues with getting enough steering out of the truck and we have been running a grippy super soft front tire like a subculture or caliber and a set of surburb/beam style tire on the rear so it slides around. My surface is a nice tacky dirt/clay blend outdoor track. I know this isnt the type of track you are describing, but it does add credability to your mismatched tire idea.

Good luck with your setup.
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Old 10-04-2011, 10:32 AM
  #21493  
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I was running Orange BarCodes for a few weeks but with the extra dust lately I thought a tire with a bigger pin would dig down through the dust to the hard pack.

Thanks for all of the great ideas guys. I'll have a few tricks to try out this weekend.


Originally Posted by Casper
Hard track with a little dust you guys try orange barcodes? They arn't going to last as long but taller pins will tend to fold and give inconsistant handling and traction rolling. A harder front tire will slide more and grab less and this might help as well.
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Old 10-04-2011, 11:05 AM
  #21494  
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Originally Posted by Casper
Hard track with a little dust you guys try orange barcodes? They arn't going to last as long but taller pins will tend to fold and give inconsistant handling and traction rolling. A harder front tire will slide more and grab less and this might help as well.
Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
I was running Orange BarCodes for a few weeks but with the extra dust lately I thought a tire with a bigger pin would dig down through the dust to the hard pack.

Thanks for all of the great ideas guys. I'll have a few tricks to try out this weekend.
i like the rebars on the big track. i have mixed and matched and found that slightly worn rebars on the front with new ones on back is a nice combo.
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Old 10-04-2011, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by coffee
I know some of you like the extra weight of this truck, but I am having a hard time making ten minutes on a 6000maH battery. I have a heavy trigger finger, there is no doubt about that. But how light has anyone been able to get this thing so far? I have been shopping for light weight parts, but I am wondering just how much a difference it can make on this chassis.
I have my indoor SCTE down to 5lb 8.6oz race ready

http://hdrcvideos.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=22211
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