9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
09-24-2011, 02:28 PM
Yea, i use to have one on my MTX3 back in my on-road days.. I figured one would be to much pressure on that one spot so i went with two plus no drilling and they line up right in front of the windsheild perfectly... the mounts i found were perfect after shimming them one washer up....The tabs you see stuck on the inside of the body is some lexan with adhesive on the back, not sure where i got it ((Good ol junk box!)) but i cut two curcles and stuck them on there to save the paint and add strength.. heres the pix you wanted
09-24-2011, 02:28 PM
I am able to line up one of the notches/tabs correctly. The other side is a tad longer and won't go in the notch/tab. I realize it's very hard to understand without seeing it in your hand.
09-24-2011, 02:30 PM
09-24-2011, 02:33 PM
Just trying to get a picture in my head, without pulling mine out.
09-24-2011, 02:33 PM
09-24-2011, 02:35 PM
That's what I'm getting at.....it seems it's not pushed in all the way
09-24-2011, 02:36 PM
... if the measurement on the diff is wider, something is not seated correctly.... and i'm assuming there are no shims on it...
09-24-2011, 02:39 PM
To the guys running the TLR chassis with no diff riser, what are you using if anything to plug/cover the holes? I only run indoors on clay but still concerned with dirt getting in the spur etc.
09-24-2011, 02:42 PM
Hope that makes sense...
09-24-2011, 02:43 PM
Just realized there was writing on alvins pic, as he pointed out, it does seem like that bearing is not seated all the way....
09-24-2011, 02:50 PM
09-24-2011, 02:57 PM
Haha..sorry Credit card or plastic. Use it as a backer and tape to chassis, then when you use shoe goo it will have something smooth to dry against. Spread a little around holes and it will dry hard and hold. You can then paint to your liking and you'll hardly see where you used the goo.
09-24-2011, 02:59 PM
I have moved the parts that Alvin marked as close as they will go.
Removed the part #61304 with the bearing and inserted them in the notches with no problem. Once I attach to the diff, then it seems longer than it should and the notches won't line up. Doesn't make much sense I know...
Removed the part #61304 with the bearing and inserted them in the notches with no problem. Once I attach to the diff, then it seems longer than it should and the notches won't line up. Doesn't make much sense I know...
09-24-2011, 03:03 PM
I used a skid plate on the holes on my Jammin chassis, worked great. But honestly I drove it for almost a year before doing so. I found with the hole plugged it would hold more dirt then when it was open. I never had to replace a spur on my Yammin due to dirt getting into the chassis from the hole.
09-24-2011, 03:05 PM
Just picked up a Castle 1410 from Ebay and the wires are not marked (A,B,C)
Based on my MMP is Red=A, White=B, Black=C ????????
Most motors have the letter designation on them.
Based on my MMP is Red=A, White=B, Black=C ????????
Most motors have the letter designation on them.