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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 09-24-2011, 12:26 PM
  #20746  
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Does anyone know if the SNR 3.7 CF chassis is milled out on the top side (For like the receiver box etc) of the chassis or is it completely flat like the bottom is? I just ordered one to try it out, decided I enjoy driving this truck so much that I should build another one Also what's a good starting shock setup on the stockers for 1/8th scale track with good traction that's somewhat smooth? I run the big bores on my other one but since I'm going lighter on this truck I figured I'd stay with the stockers running emulsion and see how they compared. Lots of goodies on the way
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Old 09-24-2011, 12:58 PM
  #20747  
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I have reviewed the exploded view of the manual about 20 times and have the notches the correct way. As you can see in the picture, I am able to get one side in the correct notch, but the other side is a little bit longer. thoughts on how to fix?

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Old 09-24-2011, 01:14 PM
  #20748  
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Its a finicky setup. You Just have to work with it until it seats correctly. Keeping both inserts lined up and inserting them at the same time is a PITA.
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Old 09-24-2011, 01:46 PM
  #20749  
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Originally Posted by coffee View Post
I tried that, it seems to be better but not perfect. Do these smooth out when you run them after everything finds it's spot? I just don't want to put it back in and have to pull it out again, the front one is a bit of work to get to. Thanks again.

While I'm asking questions, is 5/5/3 what everyone is getting the best results on a high bite clay track with? This is totally different than setting up my truggy.
Make sure the steel insert is bottomed out in the case. You might have some dirt under it.

I run 7,7,3 on high bite and 5,5,3 on low bite.
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Old 09-24-2011, 01:50 PM
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StPete40

Thanks for the info, I have spent about 4 hours on it and 1.5 hours at the LHS - multiple people there tried with no success.
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Old 09-24-2011, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SCUBA STEVE View Post
Hey guys heres a little mod i did, figured some may be interested... The body obviously takes a beating and cracks along the front fenders making the body even weaker eventually you can push down on the roof and the front end opens like pac-man!.... so i took two body mounts i found in my "junk" box ((not sure where they came from)), two nuts and two 5-40 1 inch set screws and did what you see in the pix.... makes a huge difference, it helped even way more than i thought!!
-No more cracking on the fenders...
-Body won't open up like "pac-man" at high speed...
-Truck won't sound like a trash bag of spare lexan hitting the ground after jumps!
-Can push down on the roof with no body flex.. feels like it has a roll cage!

Anyways thought i'd share the idea... i thought it would look kind of "hack" but acctually does'nt look to bad either
Thats a great idea. Now that you mention it, my old touring cars had an extra body mount about there but only in the center. How bout a pic with the body on please.
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Old 09-24-2011, 01:56 PM
  #20752  
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Originally Posted by jasontraci View Post
StPete40

Thanks for the info, I have spent about 4 hours on it and 1.5 hours at the LHS - multiple people there tried with no success.
The inserts look warped IMO, especially the one on the right side.
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Old 09-24-2011, 01:56 PM
  #20753  
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
Make sure the steel insert is bottomed out in the case. You might have some dirt under it.

I run 7,7,3 on high bite and 5,5,3 on low bite.
Thanks, I wouldn't say it's notchy anymore, but you feel an egde of the gears grabbing at about 10% of the rotation.

I am going to try 5/7/3. I run 7/10/5 in my 8T, so although a little thinner for the SCTE, it follows the same formula. At the track with the factory grease in it, it would understeer on power and extremely oversteer off power. I am trying to tune the bugs out of it's handling from the drivetrain out.

Thanks for all of the advice.
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Old 09-24-2011, 02:04 PM
  #20754  
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Originally Posted by jasontraci View Post
I have reviewed the exploded view of the manual about 20 times and have the notches the correct way. As you can see in the picture, I am able to get one side in the correct notch, but the other side is a little bit longer. thoughts on how to fix?

Is your ring gear reversed (upside down)? I think it is...
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Old 09-24-2011, 02:17 PM
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Not if it's the rear...thats correct
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Old 09-24-2011, 02:18 PM
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Not upside down.
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Old 09-24-2011, 02:20 PM
  #20757  
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Originally Posted by jasontraci View Post
Not upside down.
I can't help without seeing it in my hands. I would imagine you've done all you can do.
It was in there at some point so I can't see how or why it wouldn't go back in now.

What part of the housing is not closing...the bottom?
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Old 09-24-2011, 02:21 PM
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Yes it's in the rear - here's more pictures. I would be happy to ship to somebody to look at it to see if we are all crazy. I bought a whole diff, assembly unit off of ebay today...



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Old 09-24-2011, 02:21 PM
  #20759  
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Originally Posted by alvinsmith75 View Post
Thats a great idea. Now that you mention it, my old touring cars had an extra body mount about there but only in the center. How bout a pic with the body on please.
Yea, i use to have one on my MTX3 back in my on-road days.. I figured one would be to much pressure on that one spot so i went with two plus no drilling and they line up right in front of the windsheild perfectly... the mounts i found were perfect after shimming them one washer up....The tabs you see stuck on the inside of the body is some lexan with adhesive on the back, not sure where i got it ((Good ol junk box!)) but i cut two curcles and stuck them on there to save the paint and add strength.. heres the pix you wanted
Attached Thumbnails Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-dsc09134.jpg   Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread-dsc09133.jpg  
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Old 09-24-2011, 02:23 PM
  #20760  
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The problem is that I can get one side of the diff to fit in the notch (part # BB3104), but the other side is a little too long for the other notch. The diff gear doesn't touch the gear that is inside the housing. Very odd.
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