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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 09-04-2011, 10:30 AM
  #19231  
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I just ran my SCTE with the emulsion set-up shocks just like in the Tim Bump video and man was it planted. I thought it was planted in stock form but this took it to another level. No bounce at all, even over jumping and flat landing it just sticks to the track and takes off. I really noticed the advantage on the rough parts of the track, just sucks up all the bumps like they're not even there.
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:33 AM
  #19232  
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Originally Posted by oldschoolnewb View Post
I am kind of torn right now about what route to go. The most cost effective way to get one of these trucks with a good upgraded chassis is to buy the Tim Bump edition that comes with a great aluminum chassis for 350 bucks.

However, I want the truck to be as light as possible and I know that the SNR chassis is 38 grams lighter than the bump chassis. It has been a long time since I was in this hobby and last time I was in it, I was not counting grams like this. I just raced.

I guess the question is, will that extra 40 grams saved with the use of the SNR chassis actually be worth the extra 80 bucks it will cost me to complete my roller the way I want it? Will I notice any handling and jumping performance advantages with that extra 38 gram weight loss?

I am planning on maxing out my weight loss mods on top of what ever chassis I go with. So making up the difference somewhere else is not what I am after. Please to not start up another chassis quality control debate over this question. This is a performance based question only.
That Bump deal is the way to go for $350. You can't beat that deal, if I didn't already have my truck I would go with that deal for sure.
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Old 09-04-2011, 10:37 AM
  #19233  
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Making the truck lighter has been an advantage for me. Some may not like it but IMO there are more advantages than disadvantages. It's not as easy to drive as stock but motor temps and battery life are better. Stock weight with a 550 motor was 6.8#, mine is currently at 6.0
That's rtr with stock chassis. I have a bce on order and titanium turnbuckles which should shave a couple more ounces.

Every time I make it lighter it gets better and better. I usually run on a tight high bite 1/10 track, but we are racing on the 1/8 track this weekend and it's still dialed. I'm not saying lighter is better for everyone, but for me it is.
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Old 09-04-2011, 11:28 AM
  #19234  
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Just out of curiosity has anyone tried mixing Super Soft fronts with Soft rears. I am trying to get a little more rotation on a tight track.
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Old 09-04-2011, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by oldschoolnewb View Post
I am kind of torn right now about what route to go. The most cost effective way to get one of these trucks with a good upgraded chassis is to buy the Tim Bump edition that comes with a great aluminum chassis for 350 bucks.

However, I want the truck to be as light as possible and I know that the SNR chassis is 38 grams lighter than the bump chassis. It has been a long time since I was in this hobby and last time I was in it, I was not counting grams like this. I just raced.

I guess the question is, will that extra 40 grams saved with the use of the SNR chassis actually be worth the extra 80 bucks it will cost me to complete my roller the way I want it? Will I notice any handling and jumping performance advantages with that extra 38 gram weight loss?

I am planning on maxing out my weight loss mods on top of what ever chassis I go with. So making up the difference somewhere else is not what I am after. Please to not start up another chassis quality control debate over this question. This is a performance based question only.
I'm glad you're trying to look at this as strictly as a performance question to keep the badmouthing to a minimum. Personally, I've been really happy with my SNR chassis. The weight reduction is certainly noticed and you'll notice that I'm sure with any of the other lightweight chassis options out there as well. Probably the biggest advantage that I've noticed having such a light truck is mid-air corrections. Bringing the nose up is a near impossible task with this truck and jumping perfectly helps a lot and it's pretty easy to learn with this truck after a few battery packs. But with the SNR chassis, I can actually bring the nose up if it's down too far (try that with a stock truck!). Don't get me wrong, as with any chassis, there's a point of no return, but I do think that with the snr chassis being so light, that line is pushed a little further. Just my experience. Needless to say, I've been very happy with it. Ok guys, off to the races!
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Old 09-04-2011, 12:50 PM
  #19236  
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
Some may not like it but IMO there are more advantages than disadvantages. It's not as easy to drive as stock but motor temps and battery life are better. Stock weight with a 550 motor was 6.8#, mine is currently at 6.0
Not as easy to drive how? I use to be a pretty skilled rc driver and will more than likely pick it back up pretty fast. Is it not as easy to drive because removing weight from the chassis essentially raises the CG? You mean it does not stay as planted at is did?

I suppose if I did not like the performance characteristics of the 200 gram graphite chassis that I could always put a little more weight in with the help of a couple of strips of lead tape.

Humm, there is a good question. Would there be any advantage of pulling weight out of the center of the vehicle (chassis) and redistributing it towards the axles? Perhaps that is why it is easier to pull the nose of the truck up on jumps now? Not so much because it is lighter, but because the more of the over all weight is towards the ends of the chassis instead of the middle of it?

For those suspension geeks out there, what does moving the weight over the axles do to the dynamics of a vehicle. What does it do to the turning and jumping characteristics?
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Old 09-04-2011, 01:15 PM
  #19237  
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Originally Posted by oldschoolnewb View Post
Not as easy to drive how? I use to be a pretty skilled rc driver and will more than likely pick it back up pretty fast. Is it not as easy to drive because removing weight from the chassis essentially raises the CG? You mean it does not stay as planted at is did?

I suppose if I did not like the performance characteristics of the 200 gram graphite chassis that I could always put a little more weight in with the help of a couple of strips of lead tape.

Humm, there is a good question. Would there be any advantage of pulling weight out of the center of the vehicle (chassis) and redistributing it towards the axles? Perhaps that is why it is easier to pull the nose of the truck up on jumps now? Not so much because it is lighter, but because the more of the over all weight is towards the ends of the chassis instead of the middle of it?

For those suspension geeks out there, what does moving the weight over the axles do to the dynamics of a vehicle. What does it do to the turning and jumping characteristics?
It doesn't feel as planted as stock, you have to stay on top of it a little more. It accelerates harder, more corner speed, etc. But it does get out of shape easier. I not only lightened it but I moved the weight around to get a 50/50 weight bias. Stock with a 550 can novak it was 51.5% front. Moving it to 50/50 helped with nosing down on jumps. It flies nice and level even on big 1/8 jumps.
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Old 09-04-2011, 01:18 PM
  #19238  
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
The SCTE is a heavy truck but as has been discussed a lot on here the weight is not really a bad thing and helps the truck race in many ways. My point is don't be obsessed with saving weight. Make your hop up decisions based on performance or tuning additions and don't worry too much about the weight.
So what would be good decisions to make from the stock kit? I am not looking to go with the lightest, or most adjustable. I am no where near the top as far as a driver or "mechanic". Just want to make it a solid reliable truck.
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Old 09-04-2011, 01:20 PM
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I am hoping the diffs hold up. I'm not sure what I think of them. I just purchased the truck and went through it. Those little alloy inserts look like trouble. Especially after my buddy had his oval out on him.
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Old 09-04-2011, 01:20 PM
  #19240  
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The TLR tuned kit is a great value for hopups you can use. The truck out of the box is solid. Probably the biggest compaint about the kit truck is the stock shock towers as most go carbon fiber for weight and strength. Those come with the TLR tuned kit as well though. If you are racing you will most likely get most of all of the TLR tuned kit parts over time so might as well save some money and get it all in a box.
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Old 09-04-2011, 01:45 PM
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When you say outside- outside do you mean hole #1 on the front tower?


Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
When we mention black springs, it is the new black spring.



On the part where we fill it in, I tried to make sure we used the actual location such as outside instead of the number. At losi 1 is always inside and goes out.



It should be shipping shortly.



Use outside - outside for the front shocks. The Lane setup is the most up to date version we have been using. But use the middle hole on the bottom shock location.
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Old 09-04-2011, 01:48 PM
  #19242  
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Good race last Thursday with a couple losi's battling for the lead. The kid in the white and black truck has only been racing for 9 months.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X26FbgtQBgA
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Old 09-04-2011, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by skengines View Post
When you say outside- outside do you mean hole #1 on the front tower?
Outside most hole on the tower and outer most hole on the arm. There is an error on the setup sheet for numbering so it can get confusion giving the number on the tower.
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Old 09-04-2011, 02:56 PM
  #19244  
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does anybody know what are the spring rates of the older silver/black/gold springs and if there is a comparable rate to the newer racing spring rates. I see on the site the newer racing springs has the rates but older type do not. please advise thx
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Old 09-04-2011, 03:16 PM
  #19245  
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had a pretty good weekend of racing, I qualified 2nd and ended up taking 3rd in the main because my battery hit cut off 30 feet before the lap counter

oh well, at least I knew I was there.


Also I knew these trucks were heavy, but I puffed my protek 65c battery in that same main???
maybe the protek's are a little weak or something.

has anyone else puffed a 60-65c pack?
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