9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
03-03-2011, 07:35 AM
#1832
Sand your diff cups...
Seeing as everyone will be taking the grease out of the diff cups and filling them with oil, I recommend sanding the diff cup prior to reassembly. My front diff was leaking pretty badly. The surface that the gasket seals to was uneven. I lightly sanded it until it was all uniform. It now seals great.
To sand, place some light grit (200ish) on a flat table. Move the diff in a circle over the paper until it is all level. Only takes a minute to do this when you already have the diff apart and clean.
To sand, place some light grit (200ish) on a flat table. Move the diff in a circle over the paper until it is all level. Only takes a minute to do this when you already have the diff apart and clean.
Last edited by GO-RIDE.com; 03-03-2011 at 07:59 AM.
03-03-2011, 07:36 AM
#1833
ran mine last night for the first time... all i can say is freaking awesome. havoc pro sc with a fantom 4.5 worked well. ran a 14t last night had lots of wheel spin out of the hole, think ill jump up to 16t and maybe add some weight to the rear. rear felt loose.. probly need to change shock angle
03-03-2011, 07:54 AM
#1834
See as everyone will be taking the grease out of the diff cups and filling them with oil, I recommend sanding the diff cup prior to reassembly. My front diff was leaking pretty badly. The surface that the gasket seals too was uneven. I lighly sanded it until it was all uniform. It now seals great.
To sand place some light grit (200ish) on a flat table. Move the diff in a circle over the paper until it is all level. Only takes a minute to do this when you already have the diff apart and clean.
To sand place some light grit (200ish) on a flat table. Move the diff in a circle over the paper until it is all level. Only takes a minute to do this when you already have the diff apart and clean.
03-03-2011, 08:12 AM
#1835
Wow ETA about 2:00 pm EST (no daylight savings) our hobby shoppe employee is checking the UPS updates hourly... its almost here we are all quite excited except its -13 C about 10 F outside right now.
gives us lots of time to get painted and diff lubed and wired... well were always wired lolol
geez dont look for 18 hours and the thread grew by about 4 pages i think.
gives us lots of time to get painted and diff lubed and wired... well were always wired lolol
geez dont look for 18 hours and the thread grew by about 4 pages i think.
03-03-2011, 08:19 AM
#1836
The 1415 2400kv is easily as fast as the 4.5 550's when geared at 20/40 on 2s.....but it does have a different feel. The 550's are a little more explosive off the bottom creating wheelspin, the 1415 is more linear and tractable. I would have thought the opposite to be true before I ran them. Almost like comparing a 2 stroke to a 4 stroke in MX.
I'll have more info on temps and battery consumption after this weekend's races, but so far the 1415 looks like a great choice. MMP...maybe not so much
We have had nothing but issues out of the recently manufactured MMP's.
I'll have more info on temps and battery consumption after this weekend's races, but so far the 1415 looks like a great choice. MMP...maybe not so much
We have had nothing but issues out of the recently manufactured MMP's.depending on what speed control you use. the 550's are fully programmable to suit whatever needs suit the driver. just off the top of my head.... my mmp can:
-adjust punch control
-adjust start power
-map custom throttle curve
ive not had any issues with my mmp on the 550 coming from the slash... my 3 mmp's are a bit older. what is causing these newer ones to have issues??
03-03-2011, 08:24 AM
#1837
benny what motor you running with you mmp?
03-03-2011, 08:37 AM
#1838
http://www.youtube.com/user/LosiRaci.../2/Jm7gQCbnWMs
Seeing as everyone will be taking the grease out of the diff cups and filling them with oil, I recommend sanding the diff cup prior to reassembly. My front diff was leaking pretty badly. The surface that the gasket seals to was uneven. I lightly sanded it until it was all uniform. It now seals great.
To sand, place some light grit (200ish) on a flat table. Move the diff in a circle over the paper until it is all level. Only takes a minute to do this when you already have the diff apart and clean.
To sand, place some light grit (200ish) on a flat table. Move the diff in a circle over the paper until it is all level. Only takes a minute to do this when you already have the diff apart and clean.
starting to sound like the 4poles and 550's are the clash of the titans...
depending on what speed control you use. the 550's are fully programmable to suit whatever needs suit the driver. just off the top of my head.... my mmp can:
-adjust punch control
-adjust start power
-map custom throttle curve
ive not had any issues with my mmp on the 550 coming from the slash... my 3 mmp's are a bit older. what is causing these newer ones to have issues??
depending on what speed control you use. the 550's are fully programmable to suit whatever needs suit the driver. just off the top of my head.... my mmp can:
-adjust punch control
-adjust start power
-map custom throttle curve
ive not had any issues with my mmp on the 550 coming from the slash... my 3 mmp's are a bit older. what is causing these newer ones to have issues??
4 poles are great motors but they will always be sensorless. We Losi guys have been running them a for a long time (4 pole motors) in our 8th scales. They work great, produce gobs of power and stay cool. They do not have the consistant throttle response of a 2 poll sensored motor though. There is a give and take with most anything but for racing I will take the consistancy of sensored. If you are on a budget though the cost of the MMP system is awesome and the slight occurance of start off cogging (usually not ever really bad with a 4 poll but does exist) and the slight inconsistancy is not a deal breaker.
03-03-2011, 09:03 AM
#1840
TEN DIFF SCREWS
I have OEM replacement parts coming from Horizon, but they won't be here until next week. So, I went to a fastener store today and bought some replacement screws for the diffs. They are 2.5mm .45pitch and 10mm long. They were $.70 each. I also bought CVD and wheel hex pins for around $.25 each.
Chris
Chris
Hey Ryan or Casper,
I tore down the diffs in my NIB TEN-T this evening. I got to the last diff and 2 of the screw heads rounded out.
I drilled the heads off the screws with a carbide drill in my drill press. I was able to remove the rest of the screws by grabbing them with a pair of needle nose vice grips and backing them out.
What size are those screws? They look to be 4-40x3/8 flat head.
Thanks,
Chris
I tore down the diffs in my NIB TEN-T this evening. I got to the last diff and 2 of the screw heads rounded out.
I drilled the heads off the screws with a carbide drill in my drill press. I was able to remove the rest of the screws by grabbing them with a pair of needle nose vice grips and backing them out.
What size are those screws? They look to be 4-40x3/8 flat head.
Thanks,
Chris
03-03-2011, 09:06 AM
#1841
Just one thing to note that has not been said as of yet, one thing all of us noticed is because of the steering of this truck, and because of how it handles, it seems to be happier when not running much drag brake, if any.
03-03-2011, 09:19 AM
#1842
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
really super fast???
did you compare with those 550 size like tekin 4.5r/4800kv ???
i really want know their comparision on full speed since i still thinking of buying RX8 with 550 or MMP with 1415 in order to reduce weight.
by calculation, 2400kv is much slower than 4800kv on same battery
did you compare with those 550 size like tekin 4.5r/4800kv ???
i really want know their comparision on full speed since i still thinking of buying RX8 with 550 or MMP with 1415 in order to reduce weight.
by calculation, 2400kv is much slower than 4800kv on same battery
I started out with 10% and ended up having none. you for sure don't need any drag brake with this truck
03-03-2011, 09:33 AM
#1844
I haven't run it in the SCTE yet but in my scrt the 1410 motor was actually faster on the same gearing as my Novak hv4.5. I would up going down a tooth when I went to the 1410. Everything else was the same, motor batteries, truck tires etc... Not use how all of these motors are rated as far as kv goes, but my understanding is the kv rating is for the motor rpm when there is no load on it. 2 pole motors have a bigger difference between the rated kv and the effective kv when under load. This makes comparing motors very difficult when you start talking about 2pole vs 4pole.
