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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 08-22-2011, 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by mjealey View Post
Hacker or Casper, Asked this a couple weeks ago and never got response. I got the adjustable hinge pin holder f/r. I must have gotten lucky as I noticed a difference in the handling on the truck after installed. Explain how it affects handling. I know in the rear of the truck I used .5mm outward on the rear holder and .5mm in the up position in the front hinge pin holder in hte rear and do not remember how I installed it in the front. How does the different settings affect the setup of the truck?
You will want to run the 1 insert facing upward on the front hinge and either 0 or .5 inward for the rear hinge.
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Old 08-22-2011, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mjealey View Post
Hacker or Casper, Asked this a couple weeks ago and never got response. I got the adjustable hinge pin holder f/r. I must have gotten lucky as I noticed a difference in the handling on the truck after installed. Explain how it affects handling. I know in the rear of the truck I used .5mm outward on the rear holder and .5mm in the up position in the front hinge pin holder in hte rear and do not remember how I installed it in the front. How does the different settings affect the setup of the truck?
For the rears the front one adjusts antisquat and the rear ones control rear toe in.

0 for the front one is 2deg of antisquat (stock setting) You can increase or decrease the amount of antisquat from there. WE are running 1's up for max antisquat these days.

Rear toe 0's are 3 deg of toe which is stock. Most run stock but Aaron has played with a little less toe (.5's in) for ~2.5 deg of toe to unlock the rear a little for certain conditions.

Front we run 0's which is the stock setting. Techincally you could effect roll center but moving the inserts the same moving the pivot point of the arms up or down relative to the chassis but as the little insert that comes with them shows it is really for adjusting the kick angle of the from arms. This not only effets the kick but overall caster of the truck. Again we have tested other settings but like the stock setting of 0's all around best.
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Old 08-22-2011, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
For the rears the front one adjusts antisquat and the rear ones control rear toe in.

0 for the front one is 2deg of antisquat (stock setting) You can increase or decrease the amount of antisquat from there. WE are running 1's up for max antisquat these days.

Rear toe 0's are 3 deg of toe which is stock. Most run stock but Aaron has played with a little less toe (.5's in) for ~2.5 deg of toe to unlock the rear a little for certain conditions.

Front we run 0's which is the stock setting. Techincally you could effect roll center but moving the inserts the same moving the pivot point of the arms up or down relative to the chassis but as the little insert that comes with them shows it is really for adjusting the kick angle of the from arms. This not only effets the kick but overall caster of the truck. Again we have tested other settings but like the stock setting of 0's all around best.
Thank you very much and I plan on trying these settings out this weekend. Thanks as always!
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Old 08-22-2011, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by larlev View Post
Shoot....mine called me from drive up bank atm. She somehow got the new megacab dodge stuck on the cement posts that guard the stuff. It was on 3 wheels, and had to be driven off....the sound was horrible to hear.


"Honey the cement pole moved" she said....
Ouch body work and to add insult to injury you had to listen to the noise!! We need some lexan body panels on our real cars.
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Old 08-22-2011, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by larlev View Post
Shoot....mine called me from drive up bank atm. She somehow got the new megacab dodge stuck on the cement posts that guard the stuff. It was on 3 wheels
I'll take "Reasons why the Hulk should turn marshal" for $100 please, Alex.
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Old 08-22-2011, 01:19 PM
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Speaking of body work... My OG body is finally getting shredded. After 4oz of shoe goo it's been by far the longest lasting body I have owned (and the heaviest) but it's not indestructible. The front fenders started to crack in the usual spot, I came up with this. Perfect idea for practice or bashing body.


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Old 08-22-2011, 01:36 PM
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Good idea Salad....I agree Shoo Goo is great, but only last for so many tumbles.
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Old 08-22-2011, 01:42 PM
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Shoe good works better if you do it early and not after the body cracks. If there is a cronic bad area dry wall tape and shoe goo can really make things last longer.
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Old 08-22-2011, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Shoe good works better if you do it early and not after the body cracks. If there is a cronic bad area dry wall tape and shoe goo can really make things last longer.
This one lasted me 6 months... I did the shoe goo after the paint dried. I do it with all my bodies but for some odd reason the Losi stock body took the goo better or something because that is really the only cracking on the entire body. IMO the OEM bodies have outlasted Prolines or JC bodies two to one. I have a pile of Prolines and JC's downstairs, both my SC10 bodies and my Losi body have held up the best.
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Old 08-22-2011, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Buzz3 View Post
Those nanotechs are 2S2P. As I understand that means 4 cells wired to be seen as 2. If so then you can't balance every cell.
I'm not sure where you got that information but I think you have been misinformed. When two lipo cells are wired in parallel they stayed balanced with each other naturally, as do all other batteries for that matter. In fact this is why you're not supposed to use an old alkaline with a new alkaline, the new cell will charge the old cell trying to balance them out but alkalines do not take charging well.

In practice the charger sees each parallel group and one big cell. It will ensure each group is balanced and the groups will take care of themselves leaving you with a balanced battery.

Feel free to test this out. Take two lipos of equal rating and leave one discharged while charging the other. Compare their starting voltages and then wire them up in parallel to each other. Leave them sitting for an hour and when you come back you should have noticed the difference between their voltages will have narrowed.

Star
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Old 08-22-2011, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post
This one lasted me 6 months... I did the shoe goo after the paint dried. I do it with all my bodies but for some odd reason the Losi stock body took the goo better or something because that is really the only cracking on the entire body. IMO the OEM bodies have outlasted Prolines or JC bodies two to one. I have a pile of Prolines and JC's downstairs, both my SC10 bodies and my Losi body have held up the best.
Did you plastic rivit the body?
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Old 08-22-2011, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
Did you plastic rivit the body?
I had another shell I used cut outs where I need to reinforce, the rivets are aluminum I got them at Home Cheapo. You could get creative if you wanted with how you lay the rivets out.
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Old 08-22-2011, 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post
I had another shell I used cut outs where I need to reinforce, the rivets are aluminum I got them at Home Cheapo. You could get creative if you wanted with how you lay the rivets out.
Yeah that makes a lot of sense.. from the first pic the rivets look white so I thought they where plastic lol.
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Old 08-22-2011, 02:32 PM
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Check the following quote out. I pulled it from a thread a guy made trying to make the Associated as heavy as the Losi hahahahahahahahaha, and some of our guys are lightning the Losi.



Total weight of the truck is now up to 6.6lbs bringing it up to the losi weight and making this truck AWESOME to drive. We race with some top notch 4x4 guys around here and this truck has yet to be beat! ENJOY!!
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Old 08-22-2011, 02:51 PM
  #18075  
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Originally Posted by Cement head View Post
+1 looking forward to a great weekend of racing here. This will be my first trophy race other than at the local track.
its a good time, a crew of us from crc raceway went last year for the first time , thou it rained on qualifier day. we still had a blast . he has a really nice track set up in the winter too for indoor short course. I won the 2wd A main with my losi xxx sct last winter. And if you ever get in a pinch chris and crew will always help you out. it will be good to see some losi guys there . ive been running in the top 5 at out local series. i just cant seem to get my truck where i need it thou,,,,,anyone know where to get that new arron set up?
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