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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 08-15-2011, 06:27 AM
  #17311  
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911 View Post
Another thing about the diffs, if you're gonna tear into them to change to oil, you might as well do yourself a favor and get some HD lightened outdrives for it and put them in at the same time.

I'd definitely put on the Losi CF towers, also some set-screw captured hex's. TLR is about to come out with some at the end of the month. I've seen them and they're VERY nice. Jammin has some already out and I'm using the ones for the HPI Blitz. Those are must haves in my opinion. First thing I'd do, take the servo saver off, lock it down and red loctite it (blue will come loose eventually). This will save you headache down the road and is a free "upgrade" lol. Also, I'd get some tires that work well for your local track. The stock tires are great for a stock tire, but the foams are too soft and you'll notice after a few packs, the tires start to go away. At all four corners, back your droop screws completely out, throw a dab of CA on them, then just barely put them back in a few threads, but almost completely backed out. Also, on the mounts for the sway bars, between the screws, there's a little set screw on each side. Most people dont even realize they're there. Back those out until flush with the plastic, that'll keep the sway bars loose and free from binding. Those are must do's in my opinion. The truck runs very well right out of the box. But these next things you'll want to do eventually but aren't essential right away especially since you're dropping a pretty penny to get the truck, you'll want to recoup before you drop a bunch more to get other upgrades lol. Get the new spring set because there's some really good tuning options in it. Another good option is the swaybar kit. Also the aluminum adjustable hinge pin holder is a good option, but most people including team drivers seem to be running zero's all the way around which is the same as stock. But it is nice to have the adjustability, personally I'm running the SNR cf hingepin holders on one of my trucks and the stock ones on my other truck but I'm about to change those out to the CF ones also. I also cut down my rear bumpers because it really helps prolong the life of the body and saves a bit of weight as well.

Spare's you'll want to keep on hand, Center CVD's both front and rear. It's always good to keep some arms with you, but I haven't needed to replace any yet. Also, it's good to have some spare screws, spur gears etc. just things that you should always keep in the pitbox. I hope that helps! Good luck on your new truck, I think you're really gonna like it!
wow, pretty much covered it all. good job scott, you're a patient man. i see this question asked at least once a week.
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Old 08-15-2011, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
x3/8. suggestion i picked up all my 12 8-32x1/2 stainless steel at my local ace for 5 bucks. the 3 you want are x3/8. 2 motor mount and 1 battery tray

Thanks for the tip...
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Old 08-15-2011, 06:53 AM
  #17313  
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911 View Post
Also, on the mounts for the sway bars, between the screws, there's a little set screw on each side. Most people dont even realize they're there. Back those out until flush with the plastic, that'll keep the sway bars loose and free from binding.
I noticed this right away when taking the diffs out to replace the oil. Did exactly what you said when reassembling everything back together and the suspension works a lot more freely now.

Thanks for the other tips and info as well. Always good to have this info to learn from at the start rather than make the mistakes others have already made and learned from.
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:29 AM
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Did the TLR guys use the new Orion R10 Pro speedo in their TEN-SCTE at the ROAR nats?
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:58 AM
  #17315  
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911 View Post
Mounted
Scott, do you use some spacer between the servo and the steering horn? A friend tried it and had binding issues when using the inner hole.
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
I would really like to see Dakota Phend's setup sheet if that is possible.
Originally Posted by M.Boos View Post
Did the TLR guys use the new Orion R10 Pro speedo in their TEN-SCTE at the ROAR nats?
Yes, they sure did.
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Old 08-15-2011, 08:59 AM
  #17317  
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
ryan i looked in this thread/google and i couldn't find it. Do you happen to know the final drive ratio of lets say a 14 pinion with a 40 spur? i asked a few people via pm and they didn't know
The transmission ratio is 3.89, so FDR is 40*3.89/14, ~11.11
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:00 AM
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Yes, I think ALL of the NorCal Crew are going to want to see it.

Originally Posted by suby723 View Post
I would really like to see Dakota Phend's setup sheet if that is possible.
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:00 AM
  #17319  
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Originally Posted by the_freak View Post
ok ths
but what about the spare parts and upgrads??
what do i need ?? i like to make sure i got so i can complet a full day at the track
I would get an APE diff upgrade kit and a few sets of APE diff washers . The diff pins on the 2nd/3rd generation trucks are harder , but still wear out after about 30 packs . Which is not bad . But the APE pins will last 50 plus packs and beyond .

The main thing with the APE diff upgrade at this point is the diff washers . The ones that go behind the ( larger ) sun gears . The stock washers will wear out quickly . That can lead to small bits of metal floating in your diffs and chewing up your gears . It has happened to several guys at my local track .


The other thing I have seen alot is the front center drive shaft pin shooting though the plastic sleeve . Happened to me 4 times . It can be delayed by greasing the coupler and pin and sliding a dust boot over the coupler . The dust boot I used is from a Losi 8th scale buggy .

Losi is working on a fix for this .


Lastly , I would get some LiPo packs with a mAh rating around 6000 and a C rating of at least 40 . These big heavy trucks need a big battery . A 5000 mAh battery will only last about 6 or 7 minutes . The lower c rated batteries will over heat . I was getting my Hobby People 5000 mAh 35 c LiPo up to 120 plus degrees with this truck . That never happens in my 2wd trucks .

Pro Match and IP make some decent LiPo's for this truck at a decent price . Alot of people like the Gen Ace as well .
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by dtr View Post
Scott, do you use some spacer between the servo and the steering horn? A friend tried it and had binding issues when using the inner hole.
I'm using the inner hole and had no issues using the stock hardware
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:03 AM
  #17321  
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Originally Posted by ChefDementia View Post
Why a 2.5t 550 from trinity, does that just seem a little much to anyone else.
Listed as 8000kv here: http://www.rcplanet.com/Trinity_550_...tritep1036.htm, that is insane rpm. Maybe for short speedruns, but a definitely no for anything where destruction is considered a bad thing.
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:06 AM
  #17322  
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Originally Posted by SNR Graphite View Post
front top plate.
Lot better then the old one with the arrow cutouts. However I would like the central beam slanted a bit, so the part around the front brace holder is equally strong on both sides.
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:08 AM
  #17323  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Bartlett View Post
Anyone know for sure if the Castle 1410 4 pole is ROAR approved? Planning on attending the ROAR regional in Michigan this september. THANKS!
It is legal for mod class; check http://www.roarracing.com/approvals/brushlessmotors.php. It is listed as 060-0021-00 3600KV.
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Old 08-15-2011, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Asharus View Post
I'm using the inner hole and had no issues using the stock hardware
Thanks Angelo, it must be dependent on the servo. He is using a BlueBird, don't know which model. I guess I'll try it with my Airtronics 94358Z.
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Old 08-15-2011, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911 View Post
I was talking to Aaron Lane at the track yesterday, he said he's using 7-5-3 pretty much at every track right now whether it's bluegroove, loose or indoor clay. So I'd start there. That's what I'm about to change out to myself.
Casper was running 7-5-3 a few weeks ago at Peg,I have put that into my indoor truck and liked it alot!!Also a Tip for you guys,remove the short screws at the front of the top plate and switch them with the screws from the rear bumper, the two top ones in the rear of it! This will keep from stripping out the front with the longer screws and the rear works fine with the shorter
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