9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
08-15-2011, 06:27 AM
Originally Posted by ScottKelly911
Another thing about the diffs, if you're gonna tear into them to change to oil, you might as well do yourself a favor and get some HD lightened outdrives for it and put them in at the same time.
I'd definitely put on the Losi CF towers, also some set-screw captured hex's. TLR is about to come out with some at the end of the month. I've seen them and they're VERY nice. Jammin has some already out and I'm using the ones for the HPI Blitz. Those are must haves in my opinion. First thing I'd do, take the servo saver off, lock it down and red loctite it (blue will come loose eventually). This will save you headache down the road and is a free "upgrade" lol. Also, I'd get some tires that work well for your local track. The stock tires are great for a stock tire, but the foams are too soft and you'll notice after a few packs, the tires start to go away. At all four corners, back your droop screws completely out, throw a dab of CA on them, then just barely put them back in a few threads, but almost completely backed out. Also, on the mounts for the sway bars, between the screws, there's a little set screw on each side. Most people dont even realize they're there. Back those out until flush with the plastic, that'll keep the sway bars loose and free from binding. Those are must do's in my opinion. The truck runs very well right out of the box. But these next things you'll want to do eventually but aren't essential right away especially since you're dropping a pretty penny to get the truck, you'll want to recoup before you drop a bunch more to get other upgrades lol. Get the new spring set because there's some really good tuning options in it. Another good option is the swaybar kit. Also the aluminum adjustable hinge pin holder is a good option, but most people including team drivers seem to be running zero's all the way around which is the same as stock. But it is nice to have the adjustability, personally I'm running the SNR cf hingepin holders on one of my trucks and the stock ones on my other truck but I'm about to change those out to the CF ones also. I also cut down my rear bumpers because it really helps prolong the life of the body and saves a bit of weight as well.
Spare's you'll want to keep on hand, Center CVD's both front and rear. It's always good to keep some arms with you, but I haven't needed to replace any yet. Also, it's good to have some spare screws, spur gears etc. just things that you should always keep in the pitbox. I hope that helps! Good luck on your new truck, I think you're really gonna like it!
I'd definitely put on the Losi CF towers, also some set-screw captured hex's. TLR is about to come out with some at the end of the month. I've seen them and they're VERY nice. Jammin has some already out and I'm using the ones for the HPI Blitz. Those are must haves in my opinion. First thing I'd do, take the servo saver off, lock it down and red loctite it (blue will come loose eventually). This will save you headache down the road and is a free "upgrade" lol. Also, I'd get some tires that work well for your local track. The stock tires are great for a stock tire, but the foams are too soft and you'll notice after a few packs, the tires start to go away. At all four corners, back your droop screws completely out, throw a dab of CA on them, then just barely put them back in a few threads, but almost completely backed out. Also, on the mounts for the sway bars, between the screws, there's a little set screw on each side. Most people dont even realize they're there. Back those out until flush with the plastic, that'll keep the sway bars loose and free from binding. Those are must do's in my opinion. The truck runs very well right out of the box. But these next things you'll want to do eventually but aren't essential right away especially since you're dropping a pretty penny to get the truck, you'll want to recoup before you drop a bunch more to get other upgrades lol. Get the new spring set because there's some really good tuning options in it. Another good option is the swaybar kit. Also the aluminum adjustable hinge pin holder is a good option, but most people including team drivers seem to be running zero's all the way around which is the same as stock. But it is nice to have the adjustability, personally I'm running the SNR cf hingepin holders on one of my trucks and the stock ones on my other truck but I'm about to change those out to the CF ones also. I also cut down my rear bumpers because it really helps prolong the life of the body and saves a bit of weight as well.
Spare's you'll want to keep on hand, Center CVD's both front and rear. It's always good to keep some arms with you, but I haven't needed to replace any yet. Also, it's good to have some spare screws, spur gears etc. just things that you should always keep in the pitbox. I hope that helps! Good luck on your new truck, I think you're really gonna like it!
08-15-2011, 06:33 AM
Originally Posted by Mr.juarez
x3/8. suggestion i picked up all my 12 8-32x1/2 stainless steel at my local ace for 5 bucks. the 3 you want are x3/8. 2 motor mount and 1 battery tray 
08-15-2011, 06:53 AM
Originally Posted by ScottKelly911
Also, on the mounts for the sway bars, between the screws, there's a little set screw on each side. Most people dont even realize they're there. Back those out until flush with the plastic, that'll keep the sway bars loose and free from binding.
Thanks for the other tips and info as well. Always good to have this info to learn from at the start rather than make the mistakes others have already made and learned from.
08-15-2011, 08:29 AM
Tech Adept
Did the TLR guys use the new Orion R10 Pro speedo in their TEN-SCTE at the ROAR nats?
08-15-2011, 08:58 AM
Originally Posted by ScottKelly911
Mounted
08-15-2011, 08:58 AM
Originally Posted by suby723
I would really like to see Dakota Phend's setup sheet if that is possible.
Originally Posted by M.Boos
Did the TLR guys use the new Orion R10 Pro speedo in their TEN-SCTE at the ROAR nats?
08-15-2011, 08:59 AM
Originally Posted by Mr.juarez
ryan i looked in this thread/google and i couldn't find it. Do you happen to know the final drive ratio of lets say a 14 pinion with a 40 spur? i asked a few people via pm and they didn't know
08-15-2011, 09:00 AM
Yes, I think ALL of the NorCal Crew are going to want to see it. 
Originally Posted by suby723
I would really like to see Dakota Phend's setup sheet if that is possible.
08-15-2011, 09:00 AM
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by the_freak
ok ths
but what about the spare parts and upgrads??
what do i need ?? i like to make sure i got so i can complet a full day at the track
but what about the spare parts and upgrads??
what do i need ?? i like to make sure i got so i can complet a full day at the track
The main thing with the APE diff upgrade at this point is the diff washers . The ones that go behind the ( larger ) sun gears . The stock washers will wear out quickly . That can lead to small bits of metal floating in your diffs and chewing up your gears . It has happened to several guys at my local track .
The other thing I have seen alot is the front center drive shaft pin shooting though the plastic sleeve . Happened to me 4 times . It can be delayed by greasing the coupler and pin and sliding a dust boot over the coupler . The dust boot I used is from a Losi 8th scale buggy .
Losi is working on a fix for this .
Lastly , I would get some LiPo packs with a mAh rating around 6000 and a C rating of at least 40 . These big heavy trucks need a big battery . A 5000 mAh battery will only last about 6 or 7 minutes . The lower c rated batteries will over heat . I was getting my Hobby People 5000 mAh 35 c LiPo up to 120 plus degrees with this truck . That never happens in my 2wd trucks .
Pro Match and IP make some decent LiPo's for this truck at a decent price . Alot of people like the Gen Ace as well .
08-15-2011, 09:02 AM
Originally Posted by dtr
Scott, do you use some spacer between the servo and the steering horn? A friend tried it and had binding issues when using the inner hole.
08-15-2011, 09:03 AM
Originally Posted by ChefDementia
Why a 2.5t 550 from trinity, does that just seem a little much to anyone else.
08-15-2011, 09:06 AM
Originally Posted by SNR Graphite
front top plate.
08-15-2011, 09:08 AM
Originally Posted by Jeff Bartlett
Anyone know for sure if the Castle 1410 4 pole is ROAR approved? Planning on attending the ROAR regional in Michigan this september. THANKS!
08-15-2011, 09:14 AM
Originally Posted by Asharus
I'm using the inner hole and had no issues using the stock hardware
08-15-2011, 10:09 AM
Originally Posted by ScottKelly911
I was talking to Aaron Lane at the track yesterday, he said he's using 7-5-3 pretty much at every track right now whether it's bluegroove, loose or indoor clay. So I'd start there. That's what I'm about to change out to myself.
