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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 08-08-2011, 04:50 AM
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I'm sure I missed them in a pic here and there, but nobody is running 5-40 aluminum locknuts? With all the effort put into weight savings, this seems to be a pretty easy gain (though not dramatic).

http://www.rc4less.com/popup_image.php?pID=415&image=0

I converted 'cuz it was cheap, but mostly 'cuz I just don't like the look of gold. Be it on my SCTE, or any blinged out emblem on a real car!
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Old 08-08-2011, 05:01 AM
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To those of you who have been with this thread for quite a while, thanks for all the info here.. And I have a question that may seem really ignorant, and it is, because I don't know the answer and wouldn't ask if I hadn't tried to figure t out myself. I'm no rookie and win the 4x4 class at my home track nearly every week. We had an hour break between theheats and main this past Saturday, so I had a chance to put in my SNR front tower and front hinge pin retainers. After I got it back together, the toe was waaaay off. I compared the two retainers before I installed and they looked to be identical (as far as hole spacing and such)... Is this common or did I somehow lose my mind mid-installation? I didn't have my toe gauge so I had to eyeball it just to get it done in time for the main. So now I'm looking for an opinion here, as well as a toe setting to get my turn in back. thanks in advance!
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Old 08-08-2011, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post
I bash the same truck I race. Converted Ten T (same truck). Only part I have broken was a front spindle and sheared a CVD on the same side, caused by the spindle breaking. Still running the original a-arms front and rear, since Jan.

I broke a upper front a-arm on my Jammin almost every time I went out.
What a durable truck. Jeez. I sorta figured it was after this weekend's race. It was the first time it's ever been on a layout with a gigantic jump. I cringed every time it landed but it just kept on goin.

My comments regarding mid-air adjustments with a 2WD vs 4WD last week went out the door. I totally agree now that 4WD is much easier to control in the air.
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Old 08-08-2011, 06:42 AM
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Had my first night of racing 4x4 short bus, on Saturday, TQ and a win. It's fairly rare for me to pull of either of those accomplishments. The truck drives straight, smooth, and fast. I'm running a Ballistic 550 4.5, and just ordered a high torque rotor for it. A 13 tooth pinion is what using ATM, what should I try with the new rotor? 15 or 16?
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Old 08-08-2011, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by goehm View Post
I'm sure I missed them in a pic here and there, but nobody is running 5-40 aluminum locknuts? With all the effort put into weight savings, this seems to be a pretty easy gain (though not dramatic).

http://www.rc4less.com/popup_image.php?pID=415&image=0

I converted 'cuz it was cheap, but mostly 'cuz I just don't like the look of gold. Be it on my SCTE, or any blinged out emblem on a real car!
I've been running them for a long time now. The weight savings is actually pretty decent once you add up all 26 of them(I think)
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Old 08-08-2011, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by DBL15 View Post
pitty you think that because it works fine and a lot of the Losi team drivers are running them and they even reccomend them in the manual and mine has not missed a beat being racing two time per week for the last 4 months or so , infact the whole car has not missed a beat and is still the box setup for oils in shock and grease in diffs
I've ran a couple weaker servo's like that when my JR was broken, and they are certainly not for me, YMMV
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by ChefDementia View Post
Had my first night of racing 4x4 short bus, on Saturday, TQ and a win. It's fairly rare for me to pull of either of those accomplishments. The truck drives straight, smooth, and fast. I'm running a Ballistic 550 4.5, and just ordered a high torque rotor for it. A 13 tooth pinion is what using ATM, what should I try with the new rotor? 15 or 16?
I run a 15t. The motor will also run a little cooler.
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:14 AM
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after basically racing this truck weekly for months , rear spider gears basically sanded themselves down.... are you guys using replacement LOSB3569 or?
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Old 08-08-2011, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by spu83 View Post
no race + spare time + home depot = ??
wtf??? might as wel put a chrome moly mini cage in there

Originally Posted by Ridley View Post
I consider your spektrum servo choice to be borderline too weak for the SCTE. All of the servo's that I like for the SCTE would be what you could call amp hogs, regardless of their brand. I like fast and ~300ounces of torque, so regardless of brand it's too much for an MMP internal BEC on 2s. I've tried running with weaker servos, but hate the difference in speed when under differing loads, and hate their more fragile gears. I also like to run my steering tight against the saver at lock to get every degree of throw I can get, run the servo saver extremely tight for precision on rough tracks, and lesser servo's can't take that as well and actually pull more amps through the RX under those conditions.

A perfect servo for the SCTE IMHO would be the Savox 1267 or 1268.

95% of the servo's I read about working well with the MMP are insufficient IMO.
IMO i dont think its weak, maybe to your standards. 170ounce torque is more than enough for this little wheels they have to turn not to mention if its lighten. I ran this servo in my 10+lbs 8 t 2.0 and even though it was struggling to keep the wheels turned it never gave up or broke any gears after crashing it and beating the hell out of it. I did run my servo saver fully locked and i even cut the spindle and hubs where they touch when fully locked side to side for even further steering throw and i was out turning my friends sc10 by a lot.

Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
985mg's are the best servo around, I run them in my 1/8 buggy and my scte fast lots of torque All newer versions of the mmp seem to have the weak bec issue, and require 'work' to be happy. I was just saying step one for anyone should be to turn down the voltage on the bec to 5.5v or less, maybe 5v to assure. Also check and limit end points.. the peaks come at full turn so if you limit properly it's not as bad. If that doesn't work move on to bypass.

i put mine at 5, 5.5 and 6v and didnt notice any glitching. screw it i sold it anyways so i might try the sc8 with the 4000kv




That small piece allows for removal of the front clip with out taking all 5 screws out of the top plate.. slide out that part and the clip tips out, all you need to do is unscrew the steering turnbuckles and pull it out. LOL I'd rather keep it than install the CF part.. and be stuck.. so for me thats pretty lame actually. To each his own though.

Originally Posted by WestonSmith View Post
To those of you who have been with this thread for quite a while, thanks for all the info here.. And I have a question that may seem really ignorant, and it is, because I don't know the answer and wouldn't ask if I hadn't tried to figure t out myself. I'm no rookie and win the 4x4 class at my home track nearly every week. We had an hour break between theheats and main this past Saturday, so I had a chance to put in my SNR front tower and front hinge pin retainers. After I got it back together, the toe was waaaay off. I compared the two retainers before I installed and they looked to be identical (as far as hole spacing and such)... Is this common or did I somehow lose my mind mid-installation? I didn't have my toe gauge so I had to eyeball it just to get it done in time for the main. So now I'm looking for an opinion here, as well as a toe setting to get my turn in back. thanks in advance!
it wasn't you. the holes in my holders aren't perfectly drilled straight or at an angle so i had the same issue. as far as toe rpm makes a 1/10 gauge and start by putting it at -1 and go from there.

Last edited by Mr.juarez; 08-08-2011 at 09:24 AM.
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:25 AM
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Default 2-stage pistons?

Hey Guys,

Anyone have any thoughts on whether 2-stage pistons provide a legit benefit for handling? There's a thread in the off-road section that's been getting tons of posts and pos. feedback from users of this type of piston. I'd be really curious to hear Hacker07 and Casper's opinion on this.
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by ChefDementia View Post
Had my first night of racing 4x4 short bus, on Saturday, TQ and a win. It's fairly rare for me to pull of either of those accomplishments. The truck drives straight, smooth, and fast. I'm running a Ballistic 550 4.5, and just ordered a high torque rotor for it. A 13 tooth pinion is what using ATM, what should I try with the new rotor? 15 or 16?
I run an 18 with a little timing added for our track with that combo. I can run 10 plus with it (6000mah 25/50C) and keep the temps under 160 with a heat sink on the motor. I just picked up a 19 to try without the timing. I read where casper was looking at a 20 as well. I will report back my findings on the 19. I am hoping taking the timing out will take temps lower even with the larger gear.
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Ridley View Post
I've been running them for a long time now. The weight savings is actually pretty decent once you add up all 26 of them(I think)
Yea - and the bags come in QTY 25. It must be that LAST nut that lets you realize all the weight savings.

Yet another flaw in the TEN-SCTE. All hardware is not divisible by 5. How atrocious.
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by bico1 View Post
Hey Guys,

Anyone have any thoughts on whether 2-stage pistons provide a legit benefit for handling? There's a thread in the off-road section that's been getting tons of posts and pos. feedback from users of this type of piston. I'd be really curious to hear Hacker07 and Casper's opinion on this.
I hope to be trying them out this weekend if the planets line up just right. That makes me realize that I need to hold off on the 19 discussed in my last post so I can guage the pistons and have a better understanding of what change makes any difference. I'm not a fast guy at this point, but I am usually around 9 laps on 5 mins and 18 seconds on our track. If I magically start hitting 10 laps these pistons will be flying off the shelf locally. lol It will more likely be an issue of control and feel then knocking huge chunks off my time though.
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by bico1 View Post
Hey Guys,

Anyone have any thoughts on whether 2-stage pistons provide a legit benefit for handling? There's a thread in the off-road section that's been getting tons of posts and pos. feedback from users of this type of piston. I'd be really curious to hear Hacker07 and Casper's opinion on this.
I'm not either but I'll chime in anyway with my opinion. Which is 'nything that is different CAN be better, depending on circumstances'.

If you look at the RC8 2-stage piston, it's a 10 hole 1.1 for compression, 10 hold 1.2 for rebound. The concept is very similar to the tapered 10 hole 1.1 pistons that a lot of people are using. However, the tapered pistons are not as big (displaces shock fluid), heavy, or expensive as these.

Do they work? Probably. I'd stick with tapered pistons for simplicity sake, and to eliminate a point of failure.
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:42 AM
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Anyone know if Losi will replace my aluminum shock caps(first batch) with the newer caps with bleeder holes??
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