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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 08-06-2011, 03:47 AM
  #16516  
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Anyone running the castle 1410 3800 motor with this truck?
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Old 08-06-2011, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by BoneDoc View Post
Anyone running the castle 1410 3800 motor with this truck?
Pretty much everyone that's totally happy with their motors! This is a rock solid choice for this truck; gear 13 - 14 indoors (depending on size of track!) andd 15 - 16 outdoors and you'll be a happy camper!

Temps always good and power amazing (but for the most part controlable!). It's a NON sensored motor so make sure your speed control supports this type of motor!

Have fun and enjoy a great motor/truck combination!
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Old 08-06-2011, 05:46 AM
  #16518  
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Originally Posted by BoneDoc View Post
Anyone running the castle 1410 3800 motor with this truck?
I run the 1410 with a 14t. Best motor I've seen in all my time doing RC racing. I used an LRP x12 5.5 550, it constantly came off at 190F. Put the 1410 in, with same gearing and everything, and it came off at 130F. Amazing little motors.
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Old 08-06-2011, 07:06 AM
  #16519  
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
If you have the updated aluminum shock tops, you really should try emulsion shocks, cut the center of the bladders out and bleed them, the truck will land much better.
.
Have a another question. Should the nut on top of the piston be at the same level as the next when shaft is pushed all the way up with no oil in body?
I have a set of fronts that the nut is 2mm higher out of the body than the other..

I'm stumped...if I fix nut issue, then shaft lengths aren't the same. So when I go to push in rebound amount it is different. By a mile different. I took shocks apart and measured with calipers

Hopefully this makes sense to someone...lol
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Old 08-06-2011, 07:23 AM
  #16520  
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Check to make sure they aren't bent. You can drill the arms with a #28 or #27 drill bit to clearance them slightly.

Originally Posted by SCTRacerX View Post
I have some slight binding in my hinge pins what is a good way to make the a arm fall freely?
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Old 08-06-2011, 07:26 AM
  #16521  
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Nice job Salad!

Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post
That would be some of my handy work. Not a print guy, but I can manage.
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Old 08-06-2011, 08:19 AM
  #16522  
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Originally Posted by Chris K View Post
Pretty much everyone that's totally happy with their motors! This is a rock solid choice for this truck; gear 13 - 14 indoors (depending on size of track!) andd 15 - 16 outdoors and you'll be a happy camper!

Temps always good and power amazing (but for the most part controlable!). It's a NON sensored motor so make sure your speed control supports this type of motor!

Have fun and enjoy a great motor/truck combination!
++1. Great motor for this truck....and for $65 bucks on Ebay the value can't be beat.
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Old 08-06-2011, 09:23 AM
  #16523  
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Can someone fill me in on what the "long" chassis brace is and where to get one?
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Old 08-06-2011, 09:38 AM
  #16524  
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Originally Posted by dirtracer1 View Post
Can someone fill me in on what the "long" chassis brace is and where to get one?
Here is the item.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...s-Braces-RC8RS
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911 View Post
Steve, your chassis looks great! Definitely lost some heft lol I look forward to getting mine from you tomorrow and putting in some laps with it
Scott - Or those running the SNR Graphite chassis, is the chassis flat from side to side or does it have the sides bent up like stock? Thanks.
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:35 AM
  #16526  
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Originally Posted by larlev View Post
Have a another question. Should the nut on top of the piston be at the same level as the next when shaft is pushed all the way up with no oil in body?
I have a set of fronts that the nut is 2mm higher out of the body than the other..

I'm stumped...if I fix nut issue, then shaft lengths aren't the same. So when I go to push in rebound amount it is different. By a mile different. I took shocks apart and measured with calipers

Hopefully this makes sense to someone...lol
You may want to check and make sure the shim is under the piston on both of those shocks. It sounds like that shim is missing or in two different places. It should go shaft, washer, piston, nut.

Originally Posted by Doug D View Post
Scott - Or those running the SNR Graphite chassis, is the chassis flat from side to side or does it have the sides bent up like stock? Thanks.
No, the chassis is flat on the sides. Laying carbon fiber, you can get really good strength one way and the way he layed the carbon, it gives plenty of strength front to back and the chassis still hs torsional flex which is good.
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Old 08-06-2011, 10:44 AM
  #16527  
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
No, the chassis is flat on the sides. Laying carbon fiber, you can get really good strength one way and the way he layed the carbon, it gives plenty of strength front to back and the chassis still hs torsional flex which is good.
Thanks Ryan! Great information.
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Old 08-06-2011, 11:08 AM
  #16528  
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Default Gearing

I just got a losi and am planning on running a 540 can Orion 6.5 till I can afford some thing else. Just curious if anyone could help me with a starting point on the gearing.


Jason
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Old 08-06-2011, 11:23 AM
  #16529  
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
If you have the updated aluminum shock tops, you really should try emulsion shocks, cut the center of the bladders out and bleed them, the truck will land much better.
Ryan,

Can you please explain how you cut the center of the bladders out and bleed them?
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Old 08-06-2011, 11:25 AM
  #16530  
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Originally Posted by captainsa View Post
I just got a losi and am planning on running a 540 can Orion 6.5 till I can afford some thing else. Just curious if anyone could help me with a starting point on the gearing.


Jason
you are going to burn that motor up. i would not even try it. get a castle 3800 they are cheap and work great
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