9LikesLosi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
08-04-2011, 09:46 AM
new BCE chassis in:
08-04-2011, 09:51 AM
Does the new TLR chassis require the use of those plastic hole plugs and diff spacers like the stock chassis? Or does it just get rid of all of that like the BCE? I am running the BCE and really prefer the simplicity of being able to get rid of those extra parts. Not to mention the additional weight savings.
08-04-2011, 10:02 AM
Originally Posted by jhautz
Does the new TLR chassis require the use of those plastic hole plugs and diff spacers like the stock chassis? Or does it just get rid of all of that like the BCE? I am running the BCE and really prefer the simplicity of being able to get rid of those extra parts. Not to mention the additional weight savings.
08-04-2011, 10:27 AM
Originally Posted by Ridley
Mine is at 5lbs 15oz ready to sit on the track....getting to 6.2lbs is rather easy.
A lot of it has to do with your battery and motor choices, There's a huge disparity in weight amongst battery packs in the 6000mah range as well as a huge weight difference between the Tenshock/castle 4 pole motors and the beastly 550 can motors.
With a battery in the 315 gram range, and a smaller 4 pole motor, all you really need to do to get to 6.2 lbs is remove plastic thats not needed...like most of the battery tray, most of the radio tray, most of the rear bumper, etc.
A lot of it has to do with your battery and motor choices, There's a huge disparity in weight amongst battery packs in the 6000mah range as well as a huge weight difference between the Tenshock/castle 4 pole motors and the beastly 550 can motors.
With a battery in the 315 gram range, and a smaller 4 pole motor, all you really need to do to get to 6.2 lbs is remove plastic thats not needed...like most of the battery tray, most of the radio tray, most of the rear bumper, etc.
I couldn't agree more so I use this site http://www.rcweights.com/ to help keep track of components and their weights. It saves time and money when being weight conscious. Add any additional info you might have, it helps to have it all in one place.
08-04-2011, 10:36 AM
Originally Posted by Asharus
some run it, can always just get an rx8 if/when it blows up if it's a good deal, warranty repair the mmp and sell it
08-04-2011, 11:17 AM
Originally Posted by Ridley
Mine is at 5lbs 15oz ready to sit on the track....getting to 6.2lbs is rather easy.
A lot of it has to do with your battery and motor choices, There's a huge disparity in weight amongst battery packs in the 6000mah range as well as a huge weight difference between the Tenshock/castle 4 pole motors and the beastly 550 can motors.
With a battery in the 315 gram range, and a smaller 4 pole motor, all you really need to do to get to 6.2 lbs is remove plastic thats not needed...like most of the battery tray, most of the radio tray, most of the rear bumper, etc.
A lot of it has to do with your battery and motor choices, There's a huge disparity in weight amongst battery packs in the 6000mah range as well as a huge weight difference between the Tenshock/castle 4 pole motors and the beastly 550 can motors.
With a battery in the 315 gram range, and a smaller 4 pole motor, all you really need to do to get to 6.2 lbs is remove plastic thats not needed...like most of the battery tray, most of the radio tray, most of the rear bumper, etc.
08-04-2011, 11:24 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (75)
IF anyone upgraded to 1/8th shocks and have the stockers laying around pm me I want them.
08-04-2011, 11:54 AM
Originally Posted by onefast8
Do you happen to have any pics of your truck. I just cant see where to shave more weight off my tank, haha.
http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=18953
08-04-2011, 12:16 PM
Anyone vent their bodies for ESC and motor cooling? Where's the most effective place to cut to keep things cool under the lid?
08-04-2011, 12:17 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Ridley
The AE about retired 2 of my best buddies from racing. I'll stick to my opinion that is a complete POS 
I wouldn't recommend it to my worst enemy.
AE said they put more R&D into this truck than any other vehicle they ever made.......hopefully next time they don't try so hard, lmao
But this is the Losi thread......so no more on the matter in here.
I wouldn't recommend it to my worst enemy. AE said they put more R&D into this truck than any other vehicle they ever made.......hopefully next time they don't try so hard, lmao
But this is the Losi thread......so no more on the matter in here.
The AE SC10 4x4 is a 25 year old design so it did not take much R&D to
build it. Heres a link to the 25 year old AE/MIP 4x4.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-4wd-rc10.html
08-04-2011, 12:36 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by hacker07
You can run it without as it has the hole for the spur to fit down in the chassis. However our chassis still has the opening for the gas stuff if people want to run nitro with this.
chassis to be done with the holes filled like Bill's chassis. Now I see you
say the new chassis has the holes.
Why is this? I understand chassis's and flex angles better then most R/C
racers or most R/C aftermarket companies do,due to I use to manufacture
my own R/C cars back in the 80's and I've built many full size race car
chassis's as well as many hand built road race & drag race motorcycle
chassis's that have all been big time winners.
Is the reason for your change (Losi/Horizon bean counters?) or is it to get
the flex & flex angles correct? The reason I ask is I've seen some BCE
chassis's race at tracks I race at and I don't see a whole lot of advantage
to them over my stock SCTE chassis with my motor & center diff lowered.
I would like to get some advantage from spending money on a chassis. I
don't want to spend my money on something that is only equal to what
I'm already racing with. To stiff is a bad thing,to much flex is a bad thing,
the flex at wrong angles is even worse then all the above.
Thanks for your help with this as always Ryan.
08-04-2011, 12:44 PM
Originally Posted by Chuck 21
Ryan, a few weeks back you posted you were waiting for the new flex
chassis to be done with the holes filled like Bill's chassis. Now I see you
say the new chassis has the holes.
Why is this? I understand chassis's and flex angles better then most R/C
racers or most R/C aftermarket companies do,due to I use to manufacture
my own R/C cars back in the 80's and I've built many full size race car
chassis's as well as many hand built road race & drag race motorcycle
chassis's that have all been big time winners.
Is the reason for your change (Losi/Horizon bean counters?) or is it to get
the flex & flex angles correct? The reason I ask is I've seen some BCE
chassis's race at tracks I race at and I don't see a whole lot of advantage
to them over my stock SCTE chassis with my motor & center diff lowered.
I would like to get some advantage from spending money on a chassis. I
don't want to spend my money on something that is only equal to what
I'm already racing with. To stiff is a bad thing,to much flex is a bad thing,
the flex at wrong angles is even worse then all the above.
Thanks for your help with this as always Ryan.
chassis to be done with the holes filled like Bill's chassis. Now I see you
say the new chassis has the holes.
Why is this? I understand chassis's and flex angles better then most R/C
racers or most R/C aftermarket companies do,due to I use to manufacture
my own R/C cars back in the 80's and I've built many full size race car
chassis's as well as many hand built road race & drag race motorcycle
chassis's that have all been big time winners.
Is the reason for your change (Losi/Horizon bean counters?) or is it to get
the flex & flex angles correct? The reason I ask is I've seen some BCE
chassis's race at tracks I race at and I don't see a whole lot of advantage
to them over my stock SCTE chassis with my motor & center diff lowered.
I would like to get some advantage from spending money on a chassis. I
don't want to spend my money on something that is only equal to what
I'm already racing with. To stiff is a bad thing,to much flex is a bad thing,
the flex at wrong angles is even worse then all the above.
Thanks for your help with this as always Ryan.
See, we have many consumers that have converted this truck to nitro as well and love it so we couldnt just say sorry guys when we release the new chassis so thats why the holes have always been in the chassis for our testing.
What we have tried is a WHOLE bunch of milling options to get it to flex where we want it to.
08-04-2011, 12:47 PM
The new TLR chassis also gives you an option for the stock rear chassis brace or a longer strut type chassis brace so you have some tuning options for the rear flex of the truck.
08-04-2011, 01:02 PM
Originally Posted by Casper
The new TLR chassis also gives you an option for the stock rear chassis brace or a longer strut type chassis brace so you have some tuning options for the rear flex of the truck.
08-04-2011, 01:07 PM
Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
new BCE chassis in:
