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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 07-29-2011, 08:37 AM
  #15826  
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Originally Posted by CHIZZLE View Post
Yeah, I guess you're right. Would you happen to know the three different sizes that come in the TEN kit?
2.0, 1.8, and 1.6mm
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Old 07-29-2011, 09:09 AM
  #15827  
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Originally Posted by Outtacontrol58 View Post
You will be Ummm Losing if you do lol. Here is a pic of my truck, just got painted by Larry from RCKustom Graphics
Great... Now I gotta deal with Chad and YOU in 4x4!??!

At least you got the Losi!!
Cant wait to run with ya again, I got my RC8 almost ready to rip again, plus another little project im working on.
You gonna run any Super Cup?

Looks good Werewolf, but wheres the " Team Jacob" stickers!??
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Old 07-29-2011, 09:57 AM
  #15828  
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Originally Posted by Grandturk View Post
Sorry I'm new to Lipo's - a question:

Running SCTE With Novak 4.5 Ballistic, Havok Pro, 14t pinion. First pack I have 6000 mah 50C wOrks fine.

Just bought a couple of lesser packs - a 3200 mah, 25C and a 4200 mah, 25C ... Now I know I'll have shorter run times, but am I in danger of these batteries exploding or puffin or leaking or going nuke if I run them in may truck?

The Novak manual just says not to use batteries below 25C so I thought I would be OK for a couple of kick around batteries.

Thoughts?
The 25/35/45/50/150etc. go hand and hand with the mah rating. To say 25c is too low is not actually correct. Now I will say that too many lipo manufactures advertise false ratings. The MMM ESC is rated at 120a continuous and the MMP I believe is rated somewhere around 80a continous. With that being said you want a Lipo that can continously offer the same as a minimun choice(provided the rating is true).
For example....
5000mah x 25c = 125000 / 1000 = 125A
That is how you figure the continous c rating. It is mah x C = __ / 1000

So if you are using a MMM which is rated at 120a continous theoretically you would need a 5000mah 20C lipo minimum. However I would not recommend it. It is just too easy and cheap to purchase a little bit larger C or Mah rated battery.

As far as the battery you questioned above it would be
3200 x 25c = 80000 / 1000 = 80 available continous amps. Chances are you would end up with a puffed lipo, espically if you pushed it to LVC.

An example where 25c would be sufficient is..... 8000mah x 25c = 200000 / 1000 = 200C continous

Hope this helps,
Alvin
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:10 AM
  #15829  
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Well, you are the first person that has even mentioned it. It also is not a part that we sell much of for the 8ight series, so in reality, no. I havent given it much thought. I certainly will entertain it if there is enough interest though.

Thanks
Id be in for one. Should add rigidity to the whole front assembly.
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:11 AM
  #15830  
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery View Post
I believe stock is 2.0 front and 1.8 rear.
Mine came the other way around; 1.8 front and 2.0 rear. I was a bit surprised since all the factory setup sheets have it as you wrote, Chris.
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:12 AM
  #15831  
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In talking to Castle Creations They suggested that I downgrade my lipo's continuous current rating by 20%. That seems to be a good rule of thumb. From my personal experience with the SCTE I would recommend a lipo with a MINIMUM 150A continuous rating. (5000/30C). Personally I use a 5600/50C Intellect/Fantom/ProTek. Those three are all the same batteries, just sold by different distributors.
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:13 AM
  #15832  
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Originally Posted by Mototech View Post
Mr. Juarez, thanks for the pics. I placed an order for one today and just wanted to see how they were holding up. If I recall the only thing needed is shorter screws for the center diff. Anything else?
My chasis look the same after the same amount of runs. You will really like this chasis, there is a noticable difference from the stock one in the weight alone. You should just need the shorter screws.
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:15 AM
  #15833  
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Originally Posted by liftedcj7on44s View Post
I run a 4000maH 30c blue Lipo in my truck without a single issue.

I also run a 5000maH 20c Dynamite lipo with no issues either.

I think some of you guys read too much into some of this stuff.
i just puffed a 5000 30C Blue Lipo in the SCTE with MMP/3800......how is that reading too much into this stuff?

It happens....you are lucky or you don't run your car hard enough, or both
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:16 AM
  #15834  
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That's interesting. My SCTE was converted from a TEN-T and had the 1.8mm front and 2.0mm rear bars. I thought there had been a change when the SCTE was released. I just discovered this last weekend, so I'm buying the sway bar set at the track this weekend. I'm going to try Ryan's recommendation of 2.0mm front and 1.6mm rear.

Originally Posted by dtr View Post
Mine came the other way around; 1.8 front and 2.0 rear. I was a bit surprised since all the factory setup sheets have it as you wrote, Chris.
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:19 AM
  #15835  
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The explanation by Alvinsmith is great, however it seems to me that there's no standard for measuring (and interpreting) C rating. Under load the voltage of batteries drops because of the internal resistance, but this amount varies greatly with batteries and temperature. With higher internal resistance the voltage drops more, so to achive the same power even more amps are drawn. If C ratings were set at a fix amount of voltage drop and a fixed temperature, we could better compare batteries, but without this standard manufacturers claimed C rating must be tested in practice.
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:28 AM
  #15836  
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Really interesting, Chris. The sway bar kit contains three different colored pairs of front and rears, now mine both are silver, and I think that most pics posted here had also silver sway bars.
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:30 AM
  #15837  
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Originally Posted by dtr View Post
Mine came the other way around; 1.8 front and 2.0 rear. I was a bit surprised since all the factory setup sheets have it as you wrote, Chris.
Yep, that's how mine is out of the box as well.
Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery View Post
That's interesting. My SCTE was converted from a TEN-T and had the 1.8mm front and 2.0mm rear bars. I thought there had been a change when the SCTE was released. I just discovered this last weekend, so I'm buying the sway bar set at the track this weekend. I'm going to try Ryan's recommendation of 2.0mm front and 1.6mm rear.
That's exactly what I just put on, haha.
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Old 07-29-2011, 10:44 AM
  #15838  
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Originally Posted by BmainStar View Post
The part on the top side of the chassis where the front brace bolts to top of steering posts,seems kinda weak considering my front brace is Alum and it is plastic... jus wondering if this part should be stronger or is there a reason its plastic?May have to barge the family machine shop and 3-d one up.It is not flat like the Jammy but it could be done,question is should it be done? Anyone?
Nope Ryan I had the same question a while Back LOL MAke it ano it blue and sell a million! Or I will !!
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Old 07-29-2011, 11:17 AM
  #15839  
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Originally Posted by evilllempire View Post
i just puffed a 5000 30C Blue Lipo in the SCTE with MMP/3800......how is that reading too much into this stuff?

It happens....you are lucky or you don't run your car hard enough, or both
The point he was making was it happens to ALL c ratings....only buying a 40c or higher lipo is not needed. I know guys that also run 25c batteries all day long...and they do run hard every week.

Maybe you were unlucky, had a bad one, or both.
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Old 07-29-2011, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Well, you are the first person that has even mentioned it. It also is not a part that we sell much of for the 8ight series, so in reality, no. I havent given it much thought. I certainly will entertain it if there is enough interest though.

Thanks
I'd like one and will probably make it out of CF if it's not out by next season.
I have not had any probs but I'm serious about my sig, lol
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