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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 07-27-2011, 09:31 AM
  #15646  
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
Anyone want to sell their #1 and #2 pistons? I'd like a total of 8. I don't think anybody is running them.
It's been awhile, do they come with the truck? I'll look for them and send them to you. Shoot me an addy. I won't sell em but you can send me something from your bag of tricks if you wish.
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:35 AM
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfFBK...el_video_title

jang proving that max amps are overpriced and not as good.
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911
You're right. I just emailed them again pointing that out. However, I think it's the bevel gears that they're not tooled for not the actual bevel cut, maybe both. But regardless, I emailed them again just to point it out in hopes that it makes a difference. Thank you for pointing it out, hopefully it makes a difference.
I will lay odds that RR makes their gears from extruded gear stock , they do not machine the gears from solid bar stock like people are thinking . It would cost some major bucks too machine those gears out of solid stock , so much I bet nobody would buy them.

There is a reason they mold them and its cost , just like the majority of alloy parts are molded and not machined out of solid stock , it would just plain cost too much .
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Old 07-27-2011, 10:25 AM
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Anyone else having the issue of the bottom shock screws in the a arm backing out after a few min of run time? I thought about using a longer screw and putting a nut on the other side?
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Old 07-27-2011, 10:31 AM
  #15650  
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Originally Posted by onefast8
Anyone else having the issue of the bottom shock screws in the a arm backing out after a few min of run time? I thought about using a longer screw and putting a nut on the other side?
I used a slightly longer screw, it's been fine since, haven't need to put a nut on it yet.

A friend of mine puts a drop of CA glue on it when he threads it in. The CA doesn't really stick to the screw, so it's still easy to get it out later.
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Old 07-27-2011, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by onefast8
Anyone else having the issue of the bottom shock screws in the a arm backing out after a few min of run time? I thought about using a longer screw and putting a nut on the other side?
Left handed screws will solve this problem. These are the ones people are using, but you'll need to shorten them slightly with a Dremel.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Head-Screw-10
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Old 07-27-2011, 10:43 AM
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Originally Posted by heavyjeffd
I used a slightly longer screw, it's been fine since, haven't need to put a nut on it yet.

A friend of mine puts a drop of CA glue on it when he threads it in. The CA doesn't really stick to the screw, so it's still easy to get it out later.
This happened to my front right A arm this weekend. There's left handed screws someone posted earlier to fix this issue. I think I'll pick up a set on my next order. You only need to install them on the front right and rear left a arms apparently.
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Old 07-27-2011, 10:45 AM
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just because the plastics are so soft and I change the oils at different tracks, I use blue lock on every screw just to be safe. and after a bit of rebuilding it builds up a bunch of left over goo and its also good for the wheel nuts. keeps em from falling off at 40 mph

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Old 07-27-2011, 11:09 AM
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Great ideas, thanks all. I just noticed I have a bent a arm
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Old 07-27-2011, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911
Left handed screws will solve this problem. These are the ones people are using, but you'll need to shorten them slightly with a Dremel.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Head-Screw-10
+1 on the left hand screws. Ofna, Losi and X-Ray make them. Put them on the left rear and front right.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced...eft+hand+screw
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Old 07-27-2011, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottKelly911
Left handed screws will solve this problem. These are the ones people are using, but you'll need to shorten them slightly with a Dremel.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Head-Screw-10
That is exactly what I did. I use them on my 8ights as well. Once you put them in, your screws will not back out any more. Just have to remember to turn the opposite way when removing or reinstalling them.

A good reinforced cutoff wheel will work and you only need to take off about 4 turns of the end of the screw.
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Old 07-27-2011, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by chucko
just because the plastics are so soft and I change the oils at different tracks, I use blue lock on every screw just to be safe. and after a bit of rebuilding it builds up a bunch of left over goo and its also good for the wheel nuts. keeps em from falling off at 40 mph

You might think twice about using loctite on screws threaded into plastic. I have always heard that it can soften the plastic and certainly won't help keep screws in place.

I don't know for sure if you were talking about that, but you said every screw, so I thought you might want to look into that.
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Old 07-27-2011, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by onefast8
Great ideas, thanks all. I just noticed I have a bent a arm
All Losi vehicles have front A arms that eventually bend into a gullwing shape. Just a byproduct of having soft plastic...which I really like, since very rarely does it break and cause a DNF. I've seen some on the losi eight that were probably twisted 10 degrees or more.

Just something to keep an eye on...once they start twisting enough to be pretty noticeable, it's time to replace them Much better than a DNF and frantic wrenching between races, lol.
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Old 07-27-2011, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Ridley
All Losi vehicles have front A arms that eventually bend into a gullwing shape. Just a byproduct of having soft plastic...which I really like, since very rarely does it break and cause a DNF. I've seen some on the losi eight that were probably twisted 10 degrees or more.

Just something to keep an eye on...once they start twisting enough to be pretty noticeable, it's time to replace them Much better than a DNF and frantic wrenching between races, lol.
Just to add to that, when my 8ight gets bent like that and I replace the arm, it always seems to take a bit for the handling to get back to where I like it. The old Losi slop seems to work for these cars. I don't know if the team planned it that way, but I'm not going to stress over it. I haven't broken any plastic on my truck except for the original rear bumper. I tend to be an above average club racer, so that means I may not crash as much as a novice, but I still take some hard tumbles and hard hits from time to time and the plastics have held up very well.
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Old 07-27-2011, 12:57 PM
  #15660  
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Originally Posted by chucko
suggestions Please":
shocks pack has 5 different numbered ends 1 2 3 4 5 ...
which would you use on a big 8th scale track ? and thats with 40 w front and 30 rear. gold and silver springs
second I purchased the sway bars pack any good ideas ? front and rear or just leave it alone

Thanks..
A lot of the team guys use the 3 in the front and 5 in the rear for bigger outdoor rough track. Other than that, we pretty much use 3 in the front and 4 in the rear. As for springs, the new springs were shipping today so you may want to look into those. As for the sway bars, most the team runs the thickest on the front and the thinnest on the rear.
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