Associated quality?

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Old 01-17-2011, 08:40 PM
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I have a FT SC10 and I run the gear diff. My ball diff is horrible! I built ball diffs for years and never have been this upset with how they keep turning out!
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Old 01-17-2011, 08:46 PM
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I ran Associated my biggest problem was the hinge pins were junk .
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Old 01-17-2011, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SaladFork View Post
Yea my V2 shocks are kinda not what I expected... The springs hit on the shock bodies. Not a super big deal, but just goes to show they will put out 'ok' quality over, 'yea it's perfect'. Still love my SC10 though, even if she is a sloppy whore. :ha:
+1 I love my B4.1... and sloppy whores... but anyway, when I change my front bulkhead and front arms it feels sooooo nice and dialed. Then, one battery pack later it's back to good ol' Jessica (my exgirlfriend the sloppy whore) but yeah, I spoke to someone at my track he said he once got rid of all the slop with shims and washer etc... and it felt like poop and not to bother doing it.

Quite a few guys run Associated where I race, the slop is common throughout all our rigs.

lostinbaja - I agree about the ball diffs, I'm terrible with them... I finally am just getting the hang of it. I've been actually sanding the main rings and thrust washers with 400 grit then 800 grit wet or dry until flat and shiny (both sides). You can use an old female outdrive and sand on top of glass and they come out super flat... it definitely lasts muchhhh longer than without.

I had trouble with the break in process as well... rebuild, set too tight, set too loose, barkbarkbark, crunchcrunchcrunch, repeat. This last rebuild I just did is the first time I'm happy with how it feels.
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Old 01-17-2011, 09:44 PM
  #49  
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Well I wrote my opinion on the 4.1 post but it was not Released for some reason. I just picked up a 4.1 Factory and a 44.1 Factory. The Buggy seems to be a bit on the sloppy side. The car will also push real bad and I can't seem to get it to turn sharply. This could be a lot of factors so I can't blame this on kit quality. I feel the parts are holding up pretty well being how my skills are a bit lagging still. She has taken a beating the last couple of weeks. The small washers in some strange locations seem odd but again the buggy is still ok.
My 44.1 is a piece of art! The build quatily is what one would expect to have when spending $369 bones on a kit. The only thing that I have to complain about is the setting on the front and rear diff. That has never been a great design but it seems to work. I also dont care for all the week arse screws they use. Allen screws always strip out and are from some reason Still on the bottom of the car. Why can't this be changed so the don't get full of dirt?

Now MY .02 on the bleader screws is that needs to be changed. Maybe use a better cap and put a pre-threaded piece. Anyway again thats just my .02 worth.
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Old 01-18-2011, 07:16 AM
  #50  
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I drilled out my bleeder caps and cut a larger button screw down short and threaded it in. Even with no muscle at all some of those cap screws stripped right out.

Get a Bfast kit for your diff and follow the directions. It'll last alot longer and you can get it tighter if you break it in, tighten a little at a time, break it in, repeat, repeat, set. Then install in your car, drive 3 min, reset.

After that just regrease it after 3-5 dusty outdoor events.
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Old 01-18-2011, 07:57 AM
  #51  
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I've been running AE cars for 25+ years now, and have had a decent amount of success with them. Some parts need shimming here and there every once in a while, but its not a big deal, and it makes a difference where you put a shim. AE cars are the lowest cost cars you can win with.

Complaining about the parts being molded overseas? Well it's several years to late for that.

Biggest weak point on the AE cars is the CVD's/CVA's. They are a wear point, they are expensive for how fast they wear, and worn ones adversely effect the handling of the car (a hell of alot more than a bit of slop in the front arms.
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Old 01-18-2011, 09:15 AM
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I posted on the 4.1 thread my issues with durability and got beat up pretty bad. The ball cups popped off, the rear plate, a rear arm, the body, which is JConcepts, several ball studs, and they destroyed the rear hubs, have broken. It has only been run a few times and now has sat on my work bench for two months because I can't afford to fix it every time I run it. My maintenance program with my T4.1 and my Blitz ESE is the same, after I run it I take it apart and completely clean and inspect it. Same as what we do on the sprint car I work on. I haven't been impressed with the truck at all, or for that matter customer service. If HPI made a race kit for ST I wouldn't have had this problem.
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Old 01-18-2011, 09:53 AM
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I started with AE back in the good ol days with a gold tub RC10 and have run their stuff exclusivly ever since. I took a few years off and just got back into it with a SC10 I got used from a member here. When the truck arrived the FIRST thing I noticed was the sloppy front end. I though ok, I bought a used truck I cant complain, but after talking with guys on here and at the track this is simply unbelievable! My old T3 looks and feels 10X better than my SC10 does. If they ran stadium trucks near me, I would bet my T3 would be more than competitive with these new trucks.

Now I've heard teh same thing from guys that clean up the slop that they dont like it. Seems it makes the truck harder to drive. Ive not done this, but if it makes it more "touchy" I may actually prefer it.
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by zeakemedia View Post
I posted on the 4.1 thread my issues with durability and got beat up pretty bad. The ball cups popped off, the rear plate, a rear arm, the body, which is JConcepts, several ball studs, and they destroyed the rear hubs, have broken. It has only been run a few times and now has sat on my work bench for two months because I can't afford to fix it every time I run it. My maintenance program with my T4.1 and my Blitz ESE is the same, after I run it I take it apart and completely clean and inspect it. Same as what we do on the sprint car I work on. I haven't been impressed with the truck at all, or for that matter customer service. If HPI made a race kit for ST I wouldn't have had this problem.
Blake
IF you really wanted to do ST with HPI,, look into the Firestorm,, with a few upgrades it could be race ready,, and i think it shares parts with a Blitz
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:38 AM
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I am in no position money wise to make any changes at all. Also, I don't want to buy am RTR then spend months trying to find a buyer for all of the stuff I take out of it. When I get in a better position the T4.1 will be gone and I will look at a replacement. Right now TQ and Losi are being looked at.
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Old 01-18-2011, 10:56 AM
  #56  
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Buying a new ride and start losing to a Ae is not exactly
what I call a great plan ...
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Old 01-18-2011, 11:13 AM
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I was a little disappointed with the Assoc quality, but I think for the money the cars are pretty good. My FT rc8 was really sloppy and definitely broke quite a bit. I had spend a ton of money upgrading it so it wouldn't fall apart on the track.

People say they want quality, but most aren't willing to pay what it costs. However, I do think people are short sighted when it comes to realizing what the operational costs are of their car.

My Xray 808 costs a lot more than some other brands along with the parts being more expensive, but I spend a lot less replacing sloppy and broken parts. I basically paid upfront and didn't have to spend a lot on constant maintenance. The car hardly ever breaks (I had two breaks in nearly three years of ownership racing every other weekend and both of those occurred after teh car was more than 2 years old).

From what I can tell there is a noticeable difference between the brands and this is how I would rank them from my experience with the cars from a fit & finish standpoint...

Xray > Kyosho > Mugen > Losi > Associated > Hot Bodies
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Old 01-18-2011, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by sst4nbr1 View Post
I am working on a friends T4.1 right now,, this truck has very few races on it,, i can not believe how much slop and play is on everything,, now i ran their stuff for years, but have never seen anything like this. I currently have months of racing on my Schumacher without any wear or play anywhere. I know that the newer plastics and molds on the associated gave a better handle and a bit more strength,, but is it worth it to have to replace all these parts or keep trying to shim everything? I think that i would be VERY upset if i bought one of these kits!! Just my thoughts,, feel free to add in!!
I have a cougar and a t4.1 that have a similar amount of time on them. On the cougar I've issues with wear that I haven't seen on the t4. The cougar has issues with the gears, ourdrives and bearings wearing prematurely. Additionally the shocks leak. These problems with the cougar seem to be pretty much universal amongst the cougars at our track. On the t4 I haven't had any of these problems. The plastics are a little sloppier on the t4 than the cougar, but otherwise the t4 has been a lot more durable for less money.
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Old 01-18-2011, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by sjr456 View Post
I have a cougar and a t4.1 that have a similar amount of time on them. On the cougar I've issues with wear that I haven't seen on the t4. The cougar has issues with the gears, ourdrives and bearings wearing prematurely. Additionally the shocks leak. These problems with the cougar seem to be pretty much universal amongst the cougars at our track. On the t4 I haven't had any of these problems. The plastics are a little sloppier on the t4 than the cougar, but otherwise the t4 has been a lot more durable for less money.
As a team driver i have seen the mentioned problems,, luckily i have not had them,, but the big thing here is,,,, the problems that were there have been fixed already,, and if you own a gen 1 car they will send you updated parts fo FREE!!!!
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Old 01-18-2011, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
I drilled out my bleeder caps and cut a larger button screw down short and threaded it in. Even with no muscle at all some of those cap screws stripped right out.

Get a Bfast kit for your diff and follow the directions. It'll last alot longer and you can get it tighter if you break it in, tighten a little at a time, break it in, repeat, repeat, set. Then install in your car, drive 3 min, reset.

After that just regrease it after 3-5 dusty outdoor events.
I have done the 'B-Fast" thing, yes they last longer but not much. The problem is, the design has been around long enough and it still doesn't last. I shouldn't have to look at the aftermarket and spend more money to have a diff that lasts. Imagine if a part on your full sized car lasted a proportional amount of time/miles. You would be installing a new diff once a month or sooner. It is time to demand an improved design and not accept shoddy engineering.
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