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Old 08-09-2004, 05:46 PM   #16
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I think I have the fix!!! We all have the starting point right on our trucks now. I talked to Charlie at Novak and HPI and got the figures to figure out the pinion tooth spec if you use a Novak 5800. It is 12. You have a 12 pinion right now. Just cut off the clutch bell and machine a bushing to press fit and Heli Arc weld the steel bushing in ( micro weld ). Then drill a set screw hole in and tap. Now the big question, What option of clutch bells are out there in Module 1 that we can do this toif I need a 11 tooth or 13 tooth?
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Old 08-10-2004, 10:13 AM   #17
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I like this idea, I had a similiar one a while back. For temporary use you can use an electric airplane prop adapter to bolt the clutch bell onto the motor. I saw another guy do this on another board when he first converted his 1/8th to an electric. At one point I know someone sold mod1 pinions for electric motors. don't remember who it was. I know Fine Design sells 5mm bore pinions in 32 pitch but that isn't what is needed here. Try using the clutch bell with the prop adapter and put in bushings in the clutch bell instead of bearings. This may be a good way to test things out. When i converted my 1/8th I made a custom spur gear out of an e-maxx spur. This only worked because the Ofna center diff is made with a detachable spur. I think the Mt2 is 1 piece?? Have fun, take some pics, hope it works out.

Oh ya almost forgot, don't bother with the electric version of the MT, it sucked. When I put any amount of real power in it, the belts didn't last but a few runs. The belts also seemed to collect dirt even when I did everything I could to try to seal them in.
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Old 08-10-2004, 03:03 PM   #18
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Yea, belts , sorry they suck. Nothing like shaft drive. As for testing with clutch bell, there is no way to do that the way I am going to mount my motor. The cut off pinion will just fit with a 2-3 mm to spare. I am using a Pro 4 motor mount and it will be mounted on the edge of the cut out of the hole for the flywheel. To bad that had to be cut out so big. The mount needs to be shimmed up 1/8+. I will have to hack off 1/2 the mount and re- tap a hole in one spot and run a bolt/nut through the cut out section of this mount. The mount needs to be cut because 1/3 of it is hanging off the pan. Here are some pictures. I am open to any ideas for a cleaner or better install, so all comments welcome. I don't know how to post multiple pics so I will have to re post for everyone.
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Old 08-10-2004, 03:04 PM   #19
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Old 08-10-2004, 03:07 PM   #20
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Old 08-10-2004, 03:08 PM   #21
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Old 08-10-2004, 03:09 PM   #22
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Old 08-10-2004, 08:33 PM   #23
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Short of making your own motor mount, that one looks petty good. I have attached a picture of my 1/8th scale conversion and the motor mount that I made for it. It wasn't too hard to make, just a bent piece of aluminum, a hack saw, a vise, a file, and a drill press. I was able to avoid the difficulties encountered when using a "low slung" touring car mount.
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Old 08-10-2004, 09:03 PM   #24
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Kufman,---Good idea, I think I am going to return the motor plate. I will be able to mount the motor with more precision with angle of T6. I was only going to be able to drill a new hole in the pro 4 motor plate about 3/8 inch away from the factory hole. This would work, but still too much risk of miss mounting it. With the angle T6 I will be able to cover the flywheel hole and get a wider screw pattern with less risk of misalignment of the mount. Thanks for the idea. How many batteries are you using on your buggy? How is your battery configuration? Is your buggy driver side heavy, and is it noticeable when running and jumping?

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Old 08-11-2004, 05:15 AM   #25
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I ran 10 cells, 6 on bottom, 4 on top of that. It was a little side heavy, but the rest of the car is so heavy that it didn't really matter. Since the original car had the spur gear offset to the right, the motor was farther out than the batteries. The buggy was a little bit heavy for the .05 size aveox motor so it didn't get run that much. Your truck should be a better size for a .05 motor and 6 or 7 cells. You might want to put a little fan on the ESC of the novak burshless. It tends to run hotter than the motor does.
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Old 08-12-2004, 02:33 PM   #26
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I've converted a NitroMT, take a look here:
http://www.thewatersedge.ca/~luedee/...MT/index.shtml
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Old 08-12-2004, 03:07 PM   #27
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Burg, Looks great. How did you attach your batteries? How many batteries are you running. Can you give us a picture of the other side of your car. Looks like you kept the upper or side electronic box there with the steering servo and ESC/ batteries go?? How did you get multiple pictures on your post? I can only get 1 picture per post to work, any ideas?
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Old 08-12-2004, 03:16 PM   #28
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I'm just posting links to my website, so the number of pics is up to me However, I will admit that my navigation isn't perfect, it's a bunch of automated scripts that need a little more work. Anyway, here you can see the whole truck:
http://www.thewatersedge.ca/cgi-bin/.../pics/overview

I run a 6 cell pack, built in a custom layout that I strap down with velcro opposite the motor, above where the Rx pack would have been before. I'll add some pics to the site tomorrow that show the packs I built, and exactly how that fit on there.
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Old 08-12-2004, 03:23 PM   #29
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Daaa, You did link to your site. My mistake. I'm looking forward to those pics. Thanks
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Old 08-13-2004, 06:20 AM   #30
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Sorry Tom, I left the memory card at home, it'll be Monday before the site gets updated. Check back there then.
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