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Old 04-19-2006, 12:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by better
If you ran a werks you would understand how crappy 3 shoe spring clutch is. A werks with carbon shoes with still last longer than any 3 spring with 3 times the engangement rpm. my clutch went 12 races set at normal engagement.
Very much worth the money

Unless you like to take 1.1 springs on and off for fun
I know exactly where you're coming from. MT's quickly show up inherant weaknesses in standard clutch design. Aftermarket clutches are better by design and let's face it, if your clutch isn't working well, you're never going to be competitive.

If there's a low maintenance version of anything, this usually equates to better design and better performance. You only have to look at modern 1/8th Buggies compared to those from the 80's to see that. The same applies to clutches, I'm quite certain!
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Old 04-19-2006, 01:15 PM   #17
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Fioroni slider all the way.
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Old 04-20-2006, 04:33 PM   #18
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Werks clutches are some of the best clutches by far. Easy maintinence, great smooth engagement- all good things.

Having the best clutch on the market isn't any reason to neglect maintainence though. Just because you have a $65.00 clutch doesn't mean that it can be neglected. Springs, shoes, and bearings still need to be checked constantly. Having the nicer clutch is great, but taking the time to ensure everything is maintained well is always good too!

MY .02
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Old 04-21-2006, 10:18 AM   #19
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OK, so we've had a fair amount of tech info - here's some pictures!!

Werks:


Fioroni Turbo Slider:


Fioroni Slider:


RMV Speed II:


RMV Standard Mielke Swinging 3 Shoe Clutch:


Nova Foar 3 Shoe Swinging Clutch:


New Orion 6 Shoe Sliding Clutch:


Also, there's some really good clutch related info here:

http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/clutch/clutches-index.html

In particular, there's some immensely useful data regarding clutchbell internal diameters, laid out in a table for comparison, along with flywheel sizes, clutch nut sizes etc.

Most of the alloy clutch problems I've seen people encounter have involved clutch bells with the incorrect internal diameter for the shoes they were attempting to use. The info on this page should prove invaluable.

Last edited by Horatio; 04-21-2006 at 03:04 PM.
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Old 04-21-2006, 08:49 PM   #20
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I have a Mugen standard 3 shoe clutch and would like to know when should I replace the bearings or should I wait until one just blows out?
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Old 04-22-2006, 06:20 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyracer
I have a Mugen standard 3 shoe clutch and would like to know when should I replace the bearings or should I wait until one just blows out?
With a good setup, nice engine, well maintained clutch, the bearings can last a very long time. Cheaper, metal shielded bearings are prone to premature failure for clutch use. The plus side is that they're cheap, the downside is that they shed their lubricant, so running them dry leads to over-heating and subsequent failure. Ceramic bearings are about 5 times more expensive but certainly last longer - about 5 times longer! . Vibration issues, however, can bring about premature failure of ceramic bearings too - it can get expensive if that is the case.

Personally, I've found the best solution is to use rubber sealed bearings. You can use good quality grease with them, the grease stays in the bearings (rather than contaminate the clutch bell and shoes) and so the life of both the bearings AND the clutch improves as a result.

Maintenance is the key and TBH, it takes a very short time to service a clutch once you've got the knack.
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Old 04-22-2006, 08:22 AM   #22
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i've got a werks clutch that i am very pleased with. the adjustability alone is worth it. i've only run a quart through it an since i bought it used, i'm going to replace the shoes and probably the spring to start from scratch and get it tuned from there. as for the fioroni turbo slider, a friend of mine who is sponsored by jammin' absolutely swears by them. he's got one with original shoes on it that he bought in 2002!!! they are just starting to show some wear but they are worn evenly and he gets many gallons on his clutch bearings. the only time he replaces clutch bell bearings is before a main at a big race just to be safe, not necessarily because they need to be replaced. he saves his old one for me and they always last 3-4 gallons once i start using them!! i guess it's a clutch that's easy on bearings.
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Old 04-22-2006, 11:02 AM   #23
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So Werks, Fioroni Turbo Slider are getting good reports here.

I like the fact that Werks offer a wide variety of shoe material. Does anyone have any issues with the adjusting nut though? I've heard about the nut moving during use. Is it just a case of securing it with threadlock? Or is this a total non-issue?

Does anyone have any reports on the Orion 6 shoe clutch? It certainly looks impressive. A bit pricey though!
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Old 04-22-2006, 12:35 PM   #24
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I have 4 motors using SPM/WERKS clutches.
3 of them run with 2 rulon(red) and 2 black(carbon) shoes and must say to date I have replaced only 1 set of shoes after I had clutch bearings collapse.
They have been the best $$$ spent with reliable and consistent engagement.
Have them fitted to my Axe Black Magic ,STS D21B ,STS D21T and stock force engine out my RTR buggy.
After a bit of work to get engagement set they are virtualy "plug and play"
How ever any off road vehicle needs consistant maintenance ,so regular CB bearing changes are necessary or you are going to stuff up clutch.
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Old 04-22-2006, 12:48 PM   #25
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Forgot to mention , i use the the gold springs with the a little lock tight med strength and the screw turned in with about 1.5mm - 2mm of thread exposed.Clutch bells I use are Casterracing and GS.
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Old 04-22-2006, 02:49 PM   #26
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The nut will back off slightly if you run the car very hard, or "case" jumps. The vibrations and amounf of flex during these situations, make the adjusting nut loosen. A SMALL amount of blue loctite takes care of this.
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Old 04-22-2006, 02:58 PM   #27
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when you assemble a new werks clutch, be sure to THOURGHLY clean the threads on the nut and the shaft then loctite the nut with the blue medium strength stuff. it's not hard to adjust the nut even after using the loctite and holds it's adjustment well even after several adjustments.
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Old 04-23-2006, 01:17 PM   #28
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Thanks guys for the tips on the Werks clutch. It's feedback like this that really counts.

My next clutch will be going on a Savage - if it survives that ordeal, then I'll be getting another - WS7 duties on my Mugen!
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Old 04-23-2006, 06:31 PM   #29
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i forgot to add one more thing about the werks clutch. the adjusting nut is 10mm. if you use a regular 10mm socket, there's a chance it won't grab the nut all that well. instead, take that same 10mm socket and square the end of the socket, preferrably by facing it on a lathe. the reason for this is that the end of the socket that goes onto the nut has a rounded profile which decreases it's surface area and gripping ability on the nut. when you face the socket, it flattens it and allows the socket to grip the nut much better.

adam
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Old 04-24-2006, 04:23 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adam lancia
i forgot to add one more thing about the werks clutch. the adjusting nut is 10mm. if you use a regular 10mm socket, there's a chance it won't grab the nut all that well. instead, take that same 10mm socket and square the end of the socket, preferrably by facing it on a lathe. the reason for this is that the end of the socket that goes onto the nut has a rounded profile which decreases it's surface area and gripping ability on the nut. when you face the socket, it flattens it and allows the socket to grip the nut much better.

adam
I can see what you mean - that nut has a very low profile. Great tip!
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