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Old 03-30-2012, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry View Post
Hey I noticed the aluminum rear camber mount is desired piece. How about the front? Do I want to include that in the list of stuff to get?

I already have the brass kick plate and bulkhead.
You can just add some weight to the front to avoid the expense but I bought it and really like the way the car feels. I have the brass shim as well and have been thinking of trying maybe one once more?

It's amazing how tiny tweaks on this car can really change the feel.
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Old 03-30-2012, 06:57 PM
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Rough track*
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Old 03-30-2012, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by rider313 View Post
Here's the thing with whoops. You can set the car up to preform well in them but it will suffer on the rest of the track.

However things like momentum, steady power all the way threw make it less rough. If you go in slow and pull full trigger your car will bounce like no tomorrow. If you get a good head of steam on the run up and hold a steady even trigger your car will skim right across.
I kind of figured it was a driver error. As long as I get a good first bump I coast across the others, but if i even slightly have the wheel turned I get worked.
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:12 PM
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Is it more important to have the chassis even side to side or to have the preload the same side to side?
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Old 03-30-2012, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
Is it more important to have the chassis even side to side or to have the preload the same side to side?
What do you mean chassis even side to side? Like the layout of the components? Everything on the 22 is right down the center. So the spring collars should be really close to one another in terms of adjustment. I just went and put a set of calipers on my shocks and left to right the front and rear shock collars were within .5mm of each other. I could barely see the difference until I put the calipers on them. Whenever I am setting my ride height I just try to turn the collars the same amount on both of the shocks at that end of the car. I suppose I could set them the same and then mark them, and then turn them the exact same amount when adjusting. Then you also have to take into consideration how closely matched the springs are to one another. I think it is such a small amount of difference that it doesn't make a difference in offroad. TC on carpet yes, buggy on dirt, no.
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Old 03-30-2012, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by h8thatadmin View Post
What do you mean chassis even side to side? Like the layout of the components? Everything on the 22 is right down the center. So the spring collars should be really close to one another in terms of adjustment. I just went and put a set of calipers on my shocks and left to right the front and rear shock collars were within .5mm of each other. I could barely see the difference until I put the calipers on them. Whenever I am setting my ride height I just try to turn the collars the same amount on both of the shocks at that end of the car. I suppose I could set them the same and then mark them, and then turn them the exact same amount when adjusting. Then you also have to take into consideration how closely matched the springs are to one another. I think it is such a small amount of difference that it doesn't make a difference in offroad. TC on carpet yes, buggy on dirt, no.
I was really talking left to right balance. If I make the ride height perfectly even the preload is definitely off side to side, probably a few centimeters. My question is what's more important, having the preload even side to side or having the ride height even. My road racing experience (real cars) tells me to get the preload right and not to worry about having it be even, then again my suspension has always allowed me to have pre load and ride height adjustments independent of each other. I'm far too anal for Offroad. I have no doubt you're correct about it not mattering enough to make a difference.
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Old 03-31-2012, 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
I was really talking left to right balance. If I make the ride height perfectly even the preload is definitely off side to side, probably a few centimeters. My question is what's more important, having the preload even side to side or having the ride height even. My road racing experience (real cars) tells me to get the preload right and not to worry about having it be even, then again my suspension has always allowed me to have pre load and ride height adjustments independent of each other. I'm far too anal for Offroad. I have no doubt you're correct about it not mattering enough to make a difference.
I would get the ride hight right and not worry about the preload measurement
Being Perfect. Because the springs will never match perfectly
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by B00t13g View Post
I was really talking left to right balance. If I make the ride height perfectly even the preload is definitely off side to side, probably a few centimeters. My question is what's more important, having the preload even side to side or having the ride height even. My road racing experience (real cars) tells me to get the preload right and not to worry about having it be even, then again my suspension has always allowed me to have pre load and ride height adjustments independent of each other. I'm far too anal for Offroad. I have no doubt you're correct about it not mattering enough to make a difference.
I'd like to see pictures of the car where you have to get the preload differing by a few centimeters side to side to get the chassis to sit level.
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:27 AM
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If you have your preload set evenly left and right then the car should rest evenly on it's wheels, even if the springs are a little off. If the car is visibly uneven the something is assembled incorrectly. Check to see that your shock shafts are correct length (ie. haven't put a front in the rear) and that you don't have pressure in one shock or something.
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:30 AM
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He has it set up right, 90% of the chassis are tweaked from the factory, the thinner part at the back will be lower on the right side when you look from the back to the front with the car upside down. this causes un even droop if the shocks are built the same.
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Old 03-31-2012, 06:41 AM
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We're on page 999 of this thread and this is the first mention I have seen of this, let alone the 100 or so that race in my region.

90%? C'mon...
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Old 03-31-2012, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by rcjunky1 View Post
He has it set up right, 90% of the chassis are tweaked from the factory, the thinner part at the back will be lower on the right side when you look from the back to the front with the car upside down. this causes un even droop if the shocks are built the same.
Would anyone like to bid on my four non-tweaked chassis?

I have two 22's and 2 22T chassis...perfectly flat.
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Old 03-31-2012, 08:46 AM
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I'm curious now, I'll take my chassis to work and hit it with some quality control tools
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Old 03-31-2012, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Owen RaCing View Post
I'm curious now, I'll take my chassis to work and hit it with some quality control tools
You might be surprised what you find... I believe the chassis are supposed to be slightly con-caved from the bottom. these chassis can bend as well, i had a badly bent one that i just recently replaced.
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Old 03-31-2012, 01:16 PM
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Default Front End Slop

I've had my buggy since it hit the market and I've only changed the ball studs and ball cups once. My question is, is anyone using titanium ball studs with stock losi ball cups, it seems that the stock ball cups and studs develop a bit of slop over a short period of time, I only race once a week if that, sometimes it's just practice during the week but I'm noticing alot of slop in the front end, it could be my front bearings are shot but I changed them to avid bearings not to long ago. Any suggestions or recomendations would be appreciated.
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