1LikesTLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
10-26-2011, 04:44 PM
The biggest problem I see is people don't realize that you have to be able to get your car dialed in for you. Yes the basic setup sheet might get you close but is still not gunna fit everyones driving style. I have been running my 22 on a tight indoor carpet track in mid motor and I must say it is by far the best 2wd ever!! I have been racing for a long time and have decent setup knowledge. The 22 has taken every setup change applied and only gotten better. I started with franks mid motor but tried several different things. I have now shaved off about 2 sec. per lap with my current setup. It's sad that most guys won't take the time to learn how adjustments to the car can make it better. They just want to go fast.
this is where I'm at currently:
front end:
shock: mid,mid; limiter 3mm in, 0 out
piston: 56x4, oil: 27.5, spring: orange
tire: bobcat clay (closed cell blue)
link: 1; 1mm, 2mm outside
hub: 5 deg, 2mm under
bump: 1mm
camber -2deg
slight toe out
rear end:
shock: mid, out; limiter 0 in, 2 turns out on shock
piston: 55x4, oil: 25, spring: yellow
tire: barcode orange (closed cell blue)
link: 1-b, 1mm both
hub: 3mm back, 1mm front; traxxas hes hub for wheel
camber: - 2.0 to - 3.0
block: 4 deg, 2.5 deg anti squat
**** 58 grams of weight with losi kit *****
savox 1251 low profile with sr3000 in front
my laps on servo
saddle packs with home made AE t4 brace. (cut to fit)
esc on the rear mount location
running 13.5 or 17.5 non boosted geared 2 teeth under manual setting
this is where I'm at currently:
front end:
shock: mid,mid; limiter 3mm in, 0 out
piston: 56x4, oil: 27.5, spring: orange
tire: bobcat clay (closed cell blue)
link: 1; 1mm, 2mm outside
hub: 5 deg, 2mm under
bump: 1mm
camber -2deg
slight toe out
rear end:
shock: mid, out; limiter 0 in, 2 turns out on shock
piston: 55x4, oil: 25, spring: yellow
tire: barcode orange (closed cell blue)
link: 1-b, 1mm both
hub: 3mm back, 1mm front; traxxas hes hub for wheel
camber: - 2.0 to - 3.0
block: 4 deg, 2.5 deg anti squat
**** 58 grams of weight with losi kit *****
savox 1251 low profile with sr3000 in front
my laps on servo
saddle packs with home made AE t4 brace. (cut to fit)
esc on the rear mount location
running 13.5 or 17.5 non boosted geared 2 teeth under manual setting
10-26-2011, 04:47 PM
Thanks STU54, great starting point. !
Q for Casper/HH reps
What is the tranny gear ratio for rear and mid motor config since it goes to a 4 gear ?
Want to be able to use a Gear Calc to run some numbers
Thx again,
J.
Most appreciated STU541, great starting point.
Q for Casper/HH reps
What is the tranny gear ratio for rear and mid motor config since it goes to a 4 gear ?
Want to be able to use a Gear Calc to run some numbers
Thx again,
J.
Most appreciated STU541, great starting point.
10-26-2011, 04:52 PM
2.43 for both. the idlers are the same number of teeth so no difference.
10-26-2011, 04:58 PM
Originally Posted by Bondonutz
Keeping this above post in mind I'm going to ask my first question after trolling this thread for a long while.
I will be running my 22 on a Small and a Med sized Carpet offroad track, they're are many jumps and lots of hairpin turns. I'm pretty dead set on going Mid-motor config due to the copious amounts of traction availible but the question is;
Should I go with Saddle packs or the "Shorties" like everyone is raving about ?
I've ben running SCT for a couple years so I'm going to have my work cut out for myself getting used to this little jobber
Any help and/or advice would be most appreciated.
Thx,
J.
I will be running my 22 on a Small and a Med sized Carpet offroad track, they're are many jumps and lots of hairpin turns. I'm pretty dead set on going Mid-motor config due to the copious amounts of traction availible but the question is;
Should I go with Saddle packs or the "Shorties" like everyone is raving about ?
I've ben running SCT for a couple years so I'm going to have my work cut out for myself getting used to this little jobber
Any help and/or advice would be most appreciated.
Thx,
J.
See if you can borrow one of each from another racer to see what you like most. If you need a good setup to start with PM me and I will send you my latest
10-26-2011, 04:58 PM
Yeah what he said! 
10-26-2011, 05:01 PM
I had saddles from my 4wd. I'm sure I will try the shorty soon.
10-26-2011, 05:43 PM
losi 22
What parts will break on the 22 or spear parts do I need??
10-26-2011, 06:20 PM
Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77
What parts will break on the 22 or spear parts do I need??
Here's the link to the kingpin:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=TLR1043
10-26-2011, 08:17 PM
Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77
What parts will break on the 22 or spear parts do I need??
10-26-2011, 10:05 PM
Originally Posted by LOSIRACER77
What parts will break on the 22 or spear parts do I need??
10-26-2011, 10:36 PM
Originally Posted by Corey Bernardo
If anyone is having issues getting there 22 dialed in, well you guys are in the right place. Myself, Frank, Casper and Matt would be more then willing to help you out, all we ask is you provide us with a little description on the conditions you are running on. I can assure you that the 22 is the easiest 2wd buggy to consistently drive fast!!! Everyone's driving style is different, so it will take the user to cater to his or hers specific techniques
First off the track I run on is very hard packed with thin layer of soil on top the track is run wet and is slick with some grip when wet and very slick when track drys out.
I am running novak 13.5 with kinetic esc I am running the motor advanced 10 degrees to soften the bottom yet I have a huge problem finding forward bite to decribe it best my biggest complaint is that I can enter the corner smooth and apex the corner perfect yet as I roll on the throttle slowly no matter how smooth I am the car wants to step out and begins to slide it has a tendency to slide out all over the track but I loose the most time on exit of corners I am hoping to find a camber link setup and shock position and valving setup for the rear that will bring maximum forward bite with the least amount of slide out so I can get on power more aggresive and earlier than I can now.
So far I have read many pages here and found that a major key is to run the shorty lipo wich I bought ordered and recieved today I will practice tomorrow and race the series finals on saturday so far I have 2 1st place finishes and 2 second place finishes
Please give any suggestions that will work on my track conditions
10-26-2011, 10:47 PM
you could try 1/d rear camber link with 2.5mm shims on both ends of the link
it would let you roll thought the conor faster so you can wait later to get into the power
or try 1/b no shims and 1.5 hubs
it would let you roll thought the conor faster so you can wait later to get into the power
or try 1/b no shims and 1.5 hubs
10-26-2011, 11:18 PM
Originally Posted by porkchop
you could try 1/d rear camber link with 2.5mm shims on both ends of the link
it would let you roll thought the conor faster so you can wait later to get into the power
or try 1/b no shims and 1.5 hubs
it would let you roll thought the conor faster so you can wait later to get into the power
or try 1/b no shims and 1.5 hubs
10-26-2011, 11:29 PM
Hey Steve, I should be picking up 22 this saturday. Hope to be racing with you some this winter. Did you ever try the car rear motor to get a good comparison?
10-27-2011, 05:05 AM
Tech Regular
Originally Posted by adubaz7
I am currently running 1/b but when talking about the camber link that is more of a suggestion for fixing a sidebite issue I appreciate the suggestion but I need suggestions that will promote less wheel spin ones the car is through the corner I believe.
