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TLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread

Old 10-21-2011, 10:05 AM
  #10816  
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Originally Posted by Laloosh View Post
Thanks for the advise. I am running.g the inside hole on the tower link and the furthest outside forward hole on the hub. I was always under the impression longer is softer which equals better bite. But you seemed to just say the complete opposite of that. I keep reading all these tuning threads and every statement made by someone is completely reversed by another user. Maybe I'm the only one but at this point I don't even know who is right or wrong anymore that's why I came in here asking for recommendations before I start making changes to thing that I'm not sure what they will result in.
Go to these guys with confidence:

Dyno, Tripthreat, Matt Chambers, Corey B., Casper are team guys that post in this thread. They have a pretty good handle on this thing, ya think?

Another quickie change that works for me is to just change the ballstud spacer under the inside rear camberlink ball.
Thicker spacer is more planted in the rear, thinner gets more rotation too without killing grip too radically. And as stated above, you can always change it back or go even more the same way.
Tiny battery position change is very noticeable as well for me.
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Old 10-21-2011, 10:08 AM
  #10817  
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Originally Posted by Laloosh View Post
While I got your attention. What would adding AS accomplish? I am at 2.5 degrees at the moment and my understanding the higher you go the more force you exert on the wheels downwards hopefully resulting in more traction on power. What are signs off too much AS?
More anti squat should give the car more grip. Running 3 degrees of AS with the long link was way to stuck in the rear. Going to 2.5 AS helped free up the rear a bit and then the shorter link was money.

CSR
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Old 10-21-2011, 10:09 AM
  #10818  
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA View Post
Another quickie change that works for me is to just change the ballstud spacer under the inside rear camberlink ball.
Thicker spacer is more planted in the rear, thinner gets more rotation too without killing grip too radically.
+1
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Old 10-21-2011, 10:19 AM
  #10819  
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Thanks guys now I have something to start with. I don't mind changing things unless I don't understand what those changes will accomplish because at that point its blind tuning that ends up with stupid luck or disaster. As far as spacers I am running the Evans set up so ill will try going one link shorter on the block. If I need more rotation ill go 3.5 toe in on the rear if its too much ill add a half off degree to AS.
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Old 10-21-2011, 10:46 AM
  #10820  
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Originally Posted by csracing View Post
what body is that ASC?
FTW Vane , there are so many cool lines on it I couldn't decide how to paint it, so I went with matte gray on the outside. (thread in paint forum) 2 more coming and will be my normal colors. that body comes with markings for mid or rear and 2 wings. yea I turned my RADeO up it's all good now.
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Old 10-21-2011, 11:03 AM
  #10821  
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I run the savox sc-1251mg low profile servo and ended up with 142 right and 150 left to max out the steering travel in both directions. It barely had enough travel but its maxed.
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Old 10-21-2011, 11:10 AM
  #10822  
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Originally Posted by jhautz View Post
quick question. I am trying to match the Dustin Evans setup as a starting point for my new 22. I think I have everything set but I dont see on the setup sheet if the short battery is supposed to be run forward or in the back. Also, what are you guys using for spacers to take up the extra room in the battery tray. Some kind of foam block I assume, but does anyone have anything they found that works well and is easy your hands on. Im not finding anything good in my Pile O' RC junk that seems like it will work. Im considering just cutting a chunk of styrofoam from some packaging and sticking it in there. Just wanted something that may look a little better than a white chunk.

Thanks in advance guys.
Dustin runs 1 pad horizontal and 1 pad vertical in the front, and the necessary pads in the back. You can also run the TLR Aluminum battery mount in the rear holes on the chassis, and put the alum brace in the forward mounting position, then run the battery all the way up against the brace. This is how I run mine.

Originally Posted by Laloosh View Post
Well I had my first race night with the buggy on Wednesday. Ended up 2nd in the A main just behind a very good sponsored shumacker driver. The 22 ended up having the fastest lap and the fastest 5 10 and 20 lap averages however I got hacked out by traffic on the first three laps. After the race I realized the little screw holding the rear toe plate in the middle backed out and I noticed the rear end catching things here and there but I just assumed it was rocks lol. Oh well screw is replaced and all is well. Outset of the snagging once it fell out I'm not sure if it even affected the buggy at all. I need to tune the driver a.little more as I only had 2 battery packs worth of practice prior to the race day so it will get there. Hopefully next week ill have lady luck on my side. Love this thing.
Be sure to use some Loctite on that screw, or it will come out from time to time. Metal to metal 

Originally Posted by Laloosh View Post
To all the guru's. What can I change to give the car a little more initial turn in and mid steering OFF POWER. It does it very well right now however a smidge more would make it perfect.

I am running the 25 kick up 5 caster combo with 27.5 shock oil all around. 4.0 toe in rear with 2.5 anti squat along with the 1.5 hexes. I would prefer not to mess with the rear as it feels great right now. Would simply moving the front shocks from middle/2 to middle and inside on the front tower work?
I would try the +.75 hexes, I think this will help your issue.

Originally Posted by Laloosh View Post
I am running 1.0 tto 1.5 toe out in the front. I guess I can try the 3.5 out next raced I am just worried of messing up the rear end cause it perfect right now. It's a little wierd cause the track is mainly 180 turns that are all of varying slopes and camber so on some it rotates perfect on others its a tad behind. I'm just afraid on going from perfect to slight push to over rotating slash perfect. Is there reason why no experiments with shock position in the front?

Maybe ill try going 0 toe in the front with a 3.5 block. I read steering of and on power are adjusted for differently...like I said the on power is great the off power is 50/50 leaning towards a little push. Then again I might just becoming in a little too hot into the turns.
I run a touch of toe out in the front also.

Originally Posted by t0p_sh0tta View Post
So, I've been out of the loop for a while and I'm thinking about picking up a 22. Have people been successfully running mid-motor on clay tracks, or have most gone to the traditional rear configuration? I used to run a Schumacher Cougar, and I like the way mid-motor cars rotate.
Most people are running the rear motor configuration, but some are running the mid motor. If mid suites your driving style, I would go for it.
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Old 10-21-2011, 03:14 PM
  #10823  
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I just learned that the local nitro guys tape the inside of their tires to reduce expansion/swell.

Do you guys do that to your 22's rear tires?
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Old 10-21-2011, 03:26 PM
  #10824  
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Originally Posted by JEDI BASS View Post
I just learned that the local nitro guys tape the inside of their tires to reduce expansion/swell.

Do you guys do that to your 22's rear tires?
No, definitely not. There's no reason to tape tires in 1/8 scale anymore either. That's something we sometimes did a long time ago before the more modern styles of taller rims came out (thank you Losi).
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Old 10-21-2011, 04:21 PM
  #10825  
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Originally Posted by JEDI BASS View Post
I just learned that the local nitro guys tape the inside of their tires to reduce expansion/swell.

Do you guys do that to your 22's rear tires?
(belting the tires) will work.. but it only makes a noticable difference on soft compound tires if you are running clay compound or anything similar to pink compound losi tires you are wasting your time.When tapeing especially make sure you use a sticky duct tape as light weight as possible and all you need is two complete rotations of tape beyond that you are adding weight. Of course make sure you are getting the strips of tape even all the way around the tire to avoid throwing the tire out of balance.
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Old 10-21-2011, 04:53 PM
  #10826  
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Does ANYONE have any sugestions on how to setup my 22 for carpet oval? Like camber links, shock positions, rear motor of mm,. We have a class for 1/10 th buggies to use stock car bodies. I used a B4.1 last year bit canot remember how I had it setup. If anyone ccan give me any sugestions I would be very greatfull. I posted this question a couple of times the past few days with no response hopefully ill get some help this time. Thanks
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Old 10-21-2011, 06:26 PM
  #10827  
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Originally Posted by Laloosh View Post
Thanks guys now I have something to start with. I don't mind changing things unless I don't understand what those changes will accomplish because at that point its blind tuning that ends up with stupid luck or disaster. As far as spacers I am running the Evans set up so ill will try going one link shorter on the block. If I need more rotation ill go 3.5 toe in on the rear if its too much ill add a half off degree to AS.
are you using the shorty battery??????????
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Old 10-21-2011, 07:04 PM
  #10828  
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Originally Posted by Laloosh View Post
Thanks for the advise. I am running.g the inside hole on the tower link and the furthest outside forward hole on the hub. I was always under the impression longer is softer which equals better bite. But you seemed to just say the complete opposite of that. I keep reading all these tuning threads and every statement made by someone is completely reversed by another user. Maybe I'm the only one but at this point I don't even know who is right or wrong anymore that's why I came in here asking for recommendations before I start making changes to thing that I'm not sure what they will result in.
I have a suggestion that comes with a caveat... Download the LOSI manual for the XXX-CR buggy -- in the back (page 19) is a section titled 'Tips and Hints from the Team'... Although the specific details are for the XXX-CR, the theory and explanations of what things affect what aspect of handling are essentially universal. It also helps that the rear hub design is functionally identical to the TLR22 in terms of ballstud locations, etc..

Give it a quick read and see if it helps you filter what you see on the 'net...
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Old 10-21-2011, 08:50 PM
  #10829  
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Originally Posted by motorhead68 View Post
are you using the shorty battery??????????
I am running a standard stick placed forward.
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Old 10-22-2011, 12:26 AM
  #10830  
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When using an Associated spur/slipper pads, is it necessary to run the associated slipper hubs as well, or are the stock TLR ones fine? I lost my spur mid race day and had to use an associated for the next couple mains, and just used it with stock slipper hubs but don't want to continue to if it will harm them. Thanks.
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