asc6000

iTrader: (15)

Savox 1257 (new ran in another car for 2 packs works great), Kit servo horn, Airtronics Mt4 at 100% epa and dr. The steering is not reaching its stops, ie the spindle is a few mm from touching the carrier and I would prefer for it to hit the stops so I can tune it down with the radio. There is a couple mm of room for a longer servo horn but surely that is not needed I would hope. Iv'e been doing this 25 years and I think this is one of the best cars to come down the pipe. Please share your ideas on a cure. thanks

Laloosh

iTrader: (18)

To all the guru's. What can I change to give the car a little more initial turn in and mid steering OFF POWER. It does it very well right now however a smidge more would make it perfect.

I am running the 25 kick up 5 caster combo with 27.5 shock oil all around. 4.0 toe in rear with 2.5 anti squat along with the 1.5 hexes. I would prefer not to mess with the rear as it feels great right now. Would simply moving the front shocks from middle/2 to middle and inside on the front tower work?

madweazl

iTrader: (12)

I'm not familiar with that radios EPAs but my DX3r is actually set around 120% before it hit lock to lock (using a Hitec 7940).

madweazl

iTrader: (12)

I know you dont want to change the rear end but the 3.5 toe blocks will probably help initial turn in quite a bit (and bring your wheel track back within spec with those hexes). What is your front toe set at? Out usually helps initial turn in but you'll probably give up some mid and exit steering so that probably isnt the best way to go given your desire for more mid corner steering.

madweazl

iTrader: (12)

Anyone found an o-ring that works well? Specifically, something like a Kyosho x-ring (I dont care about the brand). I'll probably end up going with the blacks but I'd prefer something that actually sealed up and lasted without the extra friction.

Laloosh

iTrader: (18)

I am running 1.0 tto 1.5 toe out in the front. I guess I can try the 3.5 out next raced I am just worried of messing up the rear end cause it perfect right now. It's a little wierd cause the track is mainly 180 turns that are all of varying slopes and camber so on some it rotates perfect on others its a tad behind. I'm just afraid on going from perfect to slight push to over rotating slash perfect. Is there reason why no experiments with shock position in the front?

Maybe ill try going 0 toe in the front with a 3.5 block. I read steering of and on power are adjusted for differently...like I said the on power is great the off power is 50/50 leaning towards a little push. Then again I might just becoming in a little too hot into the turns.

csracing

iTrader: (22)

I'm not trying to sound like a jag, but it's not like you can't go back to the 4 degree if you don't like the 3.5. Write down every detail about how the rear of the car is setup right now and then start experimenting with other setups. There is no ultimate setup. If there was, there would be no adjustments on these cars. What works great for me might not work for you even if we're on the same track.

For what it's worth, I'm running 3degree toe in the rear with 2.5 anti squat. The car turns in pretty well. If you're looking for more rotation, try shortening the rear camber link. I went from c to b on the rear hubs and it made a huge difference. Almost too much, so I'll probably add a 1/2 degree of AS back in to compensate.

CSR

Laloosh

iTrader: (18)

Thanks for the advise. I am running.g the inside hole on the tower link and the furthest outside forward hole on the hub. I was always under the impression longer is softer which equals better bite. But you seemed to just say the complete opposite of that. I keep reading all these tuning threads and every statement made by someone is completely reversed by another user. Maybe I'm the only one but at this point I don't even know who is right or wrong anymore that's why I came in here asking for recommendations before I start making changes to thing that I'm not sure what they will result in.

t0p_sh0tta

iTrader: (35)

So, I've been out of the loop for a while and I'm thinking about picking up a 22. Have people been successfully running mid-motor on clay tracks, or have most gone to the traditional rear configuration? I used to run a Schumacher Cougar, and I like the way mid-motor cars rotate.

csracing

iTrader: (22)

No, I'm saying shortening the link from c to b made the car rotate better, meaning looser. So you're right in that a longer link usually is more bite. It's kind of subjective though and your experience may vary from mine. For me: long link is better overall rear grip and less rotation, shorter link is better rotation with less overall bite. I'm running in the outside hole on the tower (2-B is the offical link designation). I think I've got a 2mm spacer under both inside and outside stud.

CSR

asc6000

iTrader: (15)

geez, feel free to call me a dumbazz
I thought I tried that but apparently I didn't , damn these new radios and all their menus, I can't figure my super duper phone out either.... dementia is a bitch.
Good thing I can still build

csracing

iTrader: (22)

what body is that ASC?

Laloosh

iTrader: (18)

Nice that makes sense. I'll give that a shot during the qualifiers next week. It sounds like exactly what I need, a little rear end rotation but not enough to completely kick out.

csracing

iTrader: (22)

Exactly. Get it to just hook at exit from a corner, then add a 1/2 degree of anti squat and I suspect you'll find what you're looking for.

Good luck.

CSR

Laloosh

iTrader: (18)

While I got your attention. What would adding AS accomplish? I am at 2.5 degrees at the moment and my understanding the higher you go the more force you exert on the wheels downwards hopefully resulting in more traction on power. What are signs off too much AS?