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TLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread

Old 10-14-2011, 06:31 PM
  #10591  
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Should I get the tungsten carbide balls for the diff or just plain carbide and be happy. Any significant difference in the two?
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Thescoobyrs View Post
Should I get the tungsten carbide balls for the diff or just plain carbide and be happy. Any significant difference in the two?
ceramic
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:27 PM
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Default Clear over head pic

Can some one direct me or post a clear zoomable over head shot of the 22 with a tekin system or like one and transsponder mounted. Nitro guy going electric for the winter and these miniature cars have em stumped on where to run the wires and mount all the stuff and still have the body fit.
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:31 PM
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You need to get creative, A great place to mount the transponder is over the servo with some velcro. Shorten up your wires if you're having real problems.
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:32 PM
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Ok, so I haven't really payed attention to 1/10 for the past 6 months- wat did I miss?


Anything new about the 22? Upgrades?
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:33 PM
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mount the transponder on top od the servo and the tekin on the battery tray right in front of the shock tower and reciever on the chassis in between the battery mount and the servo
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Old 10-14-2011, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by mjk1210 View Post
ceramic
This is the diff I'm talking about here... Ceramic is to hard and will cause the diff to slip buddies of mine explained this to me already and it will have to stay pristine clean for the balls not to tear up the ring, just saying.. ? Not sure that's a good idea but great if it was a bearing.. Wish it would work but not going to happen
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Old 10-14-2011, 09:14 PM
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Ok,

I went 2mm inside rear camber link and was already at 2mm hub side. Now I am washing out later into the turn almost coming out of the turn. I am thinking it's over steering. Plan is to go 2.5 and see how that handles.

Track was dry but not too bad. The only thing now other 2wds were out so, I couldnt get a comparable time. I was running 30s mainly and couple of 28s. So I am feeling more confident with the adjustments made. The funny thing is went it is ran wet I know it will be dialed and may have to go with shorter links to make it a little quicker...lol....maybe.

Thanks, Guys for posting your thoughts and changes made for the car. I may just get the hang of 2wd yet.



The only thing I find odd is that when easing in the throttle then clamping it. It would torque steer and run into the wall. I dialed up some more punch control and that helped.
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Old 10-14-2011, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by kstoracing1 View Post
Ok,

I went 2mm inside rear camber link and was already at 2mm hub side. Now I am washing out later into the turn almost coming out of the turn. I am thinking it's over steering. Plan is to go 2.5 and see how that handles.

Track was dry but not too bad. The only thing now other 2wds were out so, I couldnt get a comparable time. I was running 30s mainly and couple of 28s. So I am feeling more confident with the adjustments made. The funny thing is went it is ran wet I know it will be dialed and may have to go with shorter links to make it a little quicker...lol....maybe.

Thanks, Guys for posting your thoughts and changes made for the car. I may just get the hang of 2wd yet.



The only thing I find odd is that when easing in the throttle then clamping it. It would torque steer and run into the wall. I dialed up some more punch control and that helped.
Hey i also had this problem. I was over rotating in the turns. My TLR buddy and I (mostly him) came up with 2.5 under inner and actually went to 0 degree caster and 2 shock eyelit turns on the front shock. I havent tried it yet but he texted me saying it was faster. I would give it a try.
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Old 10-14-2011, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by crazysavage View Post
Can some one direct me or post a clear zoomable over head shot of the 22 with a tekin system or like one and transsponder mounted. Nitro guy going electric for the winter and these miniature cars have em stumped on where to run the wires and mount all the stuff and still have the body fit.
Will this work for you? If not I can always take another one.
Attached Thumbnails TLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread-imag0228.jpg  
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Old 10-14-2011, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Will this work for you? If not I can always take another one.
perfection...thank you very much a picture is worth a thousand words.
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Old 10-14-2011, 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by TWRC View Post
Do you have a set? If yes, could you post up a pic of them mounted up
Here you go!
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Old 10-15-2011, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by TWRC View Post
Do you have a set? If yes, could you post up a pic of them mounted up
Here ya go, you can paint the fake bead lock ring or paint juse the nubs that represent bolts.
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Old 10-15-2011, 05:52 AM
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Default more info on my Losi ball diff disintegration

OK... so this was in my SCB, but Casper and others were asking about it here.

I installed a B-Fast in it an hour ago and was gonna reuse the gear. I hadn't noticed til then that the balls had torn into the plastic of the gear, like centrifugal force had wedged them deep into the plastic further from center. That partly explains why the outer edge of the rings were chipped away. Still not sure how this occurred (except for my daughters driving) or when it occurred: 1) during the diff's failure or 2) while I was trying to figure out (troubleshooting) what had happened by tightening the slipper and/or the thrust bearing.

Either way, love the B-fast and glad I ordered spares of everything for my 22 and SCB.

Now... off to the track I go .
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Old 10-15-2011, 06:49 AM
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I have the B-fast pro kit with carbide diff balls and ceramic thrust balls. If built with care and broken in correctly, you will find it to be super smooth. This is the best diff I have ever felt and it's been run for weeks now. Nice job B-fast!!
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