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lug nuts coming loose and wheels aflying

lug nuts coming loose and wheels aflying

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Old 11-28-2010, 08:54 PM
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Default lug nuts coming loose and wheels aflying

Hey all
so far i have had some lug nuts (nylock) coming loose I know I cant use thread lock (metal on nylon) any suggestions? by the way I am using stock axel hubs and stock lug nuts.
thanks
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Old 11-28-2010, 08:57 PM
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Get some metal locknuts. That will solve your problem.
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:00 PM
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Hey
What do you mean by metal locknuts isnt that what im using? I mean im using the nylon insert or nylocks as I call them but the outside is metal.
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:15 PM
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what vehicle are you running.
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:18 PM
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Hey thanks for the post
Im running the equivilent to the redcat volcano 1:10 4wd monster truck
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:18 PM
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Get some serrated locknuts. They bite into the wheel when tightened down to keep from backing off. Usually have nylon inserts as well. I swapped the stock wheel nuts on my SCRT10 to Traxxas serrated 4mm blue aluminum ones for this reason.
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:29 PM
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thanks for the posts,can I use red loctite? I read somewhere that you can and cant with plastic or nylon any suggestions on that
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:33 PM
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dont use red thread lock you will never get it to come off. the blue is the way to go for certain things. Just buy ne nylocks. They do go bad and should be replaced regularly.
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Old 11-28-2010, 09:48 PM
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thanks I meant blue thread lock and dont save the old nuts
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Old 11-29-2010, 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by rpmdj1 View Post
Hey all
so far i have had some lug nuts (nylock) coming loose I know I cant use thread lock (metal on nylon) any suggestions? by the way I am using stock axel hubs and stock lug nuts.
thanks

these nuts do wear out, especially if your taking your wheels on and off alot. some people say to just replace nylon nuts with metal lock nuts, but i disagree, they are generally designed to use a nylon nut due to the force that is generated in a crash, if the nut is 100% locked down, parts will break not a 15 cent nylon nut.

seeing this reminded me of this weekend when my t4 lost a front wheel during the a-main, sadly this was the same nylon nut i was going to replace in the 2nd to last qualifier. now i have an extra 6-8 of these cheap nylon nuts in my parts box.

while this may seem like a pain, it means your wheel may come off in a crash as opposed to your arms being broke (not on your person but on your car lol)
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Old 11-29-2010, 06:04 AM
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there is no issue using locktight on nuts with a nylon insert. It will work, and well. What they mean when they say that is that, say you had an all nylon nut and opted to use locktight...it won't be effective. It's not going to blow up or anything. There is plenty of metal to grab hold of on a standard locknut. Just get some $1 thread locker at harbor freight, apply lightly, and be done with it.
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Old 11-29-2010, 07:15 AM
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I have had that happen on my sc10's. Like a couple of people have already mentioned they do wear out. I got some from the hardware store and issue solved. I do check the quality of the nylon each time I switch wheels.
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Old 11-29-2010, 11:12 AM
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Default lugnuts

Hey all
thanks for the great posts and info. However I have solved the mystery.I upgrade my front and rear hub carriers from the stock plastic to the hi perf aluminum. Inside the hub where the inner bearing sits is a ridge that isnt supposed to be there its just some extra scale that wasnt ground off thus the bearing wasnt seated properly and making it impossible to tighten the nut without the wheel binding or not turning. So I wil attempt to grind the ridge off or down and see if it makes a difference. I will post again on this topic with some pics of my progress and the part number so all can be aware of this
thanks again
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Old 11-29-2010, 12:10 PM
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Does anyone make knurled nuts for the rear of an ae vehicle to replace the standard 8/32 nylon lock-nuts?
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Old 11-29-2010, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by rpmdj1 View Post
Hey all
thanks for the great posts and info. However I have solved the mystery.I upgrade my front and rear hub carriers from the stock plastic to the hi perf aluminum. Inside the hub where the inner bearing sits is a ridge that isnt supposed to be there its just some extra scale that wasnt ground off thus the bearing wasnt seated properly and making it impossible to tighten the nut without the wheel binding or not turning. So I wil attempt to grind the ridge off or down and see if it makes a difference. I will post again on this topic with some pics of my progress and the part number so all can be aware of this
thanks again
yeah, that's not gonna do it.
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