airboy808

iTrader: (2)

Don't use the ofna bore reducer with the elite mount it does not work as the set screw on the mod8 rc-monster piņon sticks out.

Does 32p = mod8?

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

Yea. RC-Monster spur gear would be the way to go for you. Simple bolt in solution.

I'm running the RC-monster spur gear with the Castle 1410 3800kv motor on 3s 4200mah Hyperion pack. 14T pinion gear works well so far.

Yea. 32P is the same as mod.8

airboy808

iTrader: (2)

Ok got it to work by using a shorter set screw.

Ran the car outside the house a little and the drivetrain seems bound up even after I set the mesh. It just does not seem smooth as my hyper10sc. Anyone else's drivetrain feel like there is heavy resistance when trying to roll the car around with the motor disengaged from the spur? Any ideas what I should look at?

my set up is:
-elite chassis
-elite mount
-rcm spur

thanks in advance

Also if you buying Pure-Tech battery straps and running 3s or 2s get the 3" ones not 4". 4" way too big.

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

I remember edumakted was having an issue that sounds similar to what you are describing when he first put his together but i cant remember what he said the problem was after he got it figured out Maybe he will chime with what his issue was.

K-Train

iTrader: (1)

*In for learning*

R-E-A-P-E-R-

iTrader: (13)

Anyone know what all bodies will fit this car. Not a huge fan of the stocker that is available.

Thanks

airboy808

iTrader: (2)

stock chassis: 810 body really only option. Looked at other buggy bodies but they are too wide or to long.

elite chassis: then any ve8 body should work. I have one coming and will be testing fitting. Also putting slash body mounts so I can put on a jconceptz manta sc truck body.

airboy808

iTrader: (2)

jhautz: what is your gearing? I know you got the 52 spur from rcm. Just wondering when pinon you are running and keeping the motor cool. Mines (3800kv castle sct) is running hot. Just running 16/52 on the street with street tires.

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

14/52

I could gear lower. It still has more speed and power than I need but it's the smallest pinion I have. I actually turned the EPA down to 90% to take a little edge off. 13t would probably be ideal.

I imagine that winding this little motor out back and forth on the street would get it hot. On the indoor tracks here I'm never at full throttle for more than a few seconds 125ft straights at the longest. Highest temps I've seen so far are in the 140 range.

The 3800kv SC motor is definitely on the small side and probably not a good choice for bashing or large track setup. But so far for racing on a decent size indoor track it has been perfect for me.

dallen

iTrader: (1)

finishing up my elite-X 810E, modded rear arms to get into roar wheelbase rules(quick proto to see if it will work, re-tool after running). It was a ten-t with the r/c monster e-conversion made into short course.

dallen

iTrader: (1)

Pic with J-Concepts VE-8 body.

jhautz

iTrader: (86)

Nice. What does it weigh?

dallen

iTrader: (1)

Going to take to hobby shop to weigh it on there scale (just buggy no wheels/tires or batt or body) but with rx-8 and 550 mtr. Post results when back, need to buy my own scale but just quit job this past Friday so have to be tight with funds until re-up on job.
*2150 grams*

R-E-A-P-E-R-

iTrader: (13)

Couple quick pictures



Has anyone tried running a tekno long shank pinion gear so you do not have to flip the spur and raise the whole center diff assembly?




And I have a question about this rear outter hinge pin. Has anyone found an actual pin that will fit this. Im not sure what is up with this long screw with 2 nuts on the end of it. Must have been some kind of joke

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

You generally need to flip the diff around when converting to electric. And yes, this would dictate needing to raise it some. As for the rear hinge pin, many eighth scales run a rear hinge pin like that such as the 8ight and the K cars, etc. So, no, its not a joke.