Associated Shocks
 

Does anyone use bladders in their associated shocks? If so, are they used in all 4, if not how do you assure they work evenly? I tried in mine and the front shocks were great but the rear ones create too much hydro-lock. If I take some oil out then there is too much air. What does everyone else do?

Anyone? What about bleeding out the air and excess oil like the manual says. It says to slowly bleed and then tighten the cap or bleeder screw while the shaft is fully compressed...does it need to push back out like the old associated shocks used to? because following the directions, this doesn't happen. What has been everyone's experience?

Do not use the bladders with the bleeder caps. If you want to try bladders, you need to use these caps.

http://order.aeteam.net/product_deta...Itemcode=31121

I've been using this setup for a while, I like it. One thing I learned is to go 5wt LIGHTER with the oil when using bladders. Since the air is not mixing with the oil in this set up, the use of lighter oil is necessary to achieve the same results.

Just fill the shock until the oil is just past the hex shaped part of the shock body.
Push the shock shaft about 3/4 of the way in.
Place the bladder on top of the shock body, being careful not to trap any air under the bladder. The whole point of the bladder is to keep the air from mixing with the oil.
Place the black cap on top of the bladder, then screw on the blue retainer. Be sure to keep the black cap in place while screwing down the blue retainer.
Check the rebound on the shock, and you should be good to go.

I run bladders in all my associated shocks, H.P.I. bladders. the trick to getting the right balance of oil and air, at least the technique I use would tgake me quite a while to explain. basically it's trial and error. but when you first place the bladder on the shock body, try catching the threads just right while screweing the shock cap on and it should get you the fit between bladder and cap you're looking for. I figured out which way works for me just by trial and error

Im having the same problem as dirtracer68 with the associated shocks. I've tried to following the directions from associated to a "t". But in doing so I couldn't get any rebound out of the shock shaft. I believe it's because it takes ALL the air out but to get a rebound you need air in a shock just not mixing with oil. Im using bleeder caps but normally don't take the screw out when redoing the shock. Could someone from associated please help.

Ok, so one of you uses the bladders and the other doesn't but neither of you have a way of consistently building shocks each time. I'm sure they work great for both of you. ;) I have built shocks over my 14+yrs of racing as well and can say they have done well but I'm trying to find a way to build the shocks the same each time to teach my boys. Now, if you follow Associated's directions there would be no rebound. Associated tells you to fully compress the shaft and then tighten the cap or bleeder screw. If this is done the shaft will not come back out (rebound) on it's own. Is this how everyone does their shocks? Is there anyone from Associated who would like to respond to these questions? Calling Rick Hohwart!!

get some hpi white bladders, fill the shock body with oil, after all the air bubbles are gone, gently place the bladder on the top of the shock body,and gently push the bladder flat onto the shock body(letting oil oooze out), screw on the cap and you're done. another helpfull place is rc411.com, xtreme rc cars magazine, they have an article in the how to section of their site, I believe it's called "build shocks like a pro" check it out, it helped me a lot.

That's exactly what I did for the front shocks and they were perfect...however on the larger rear shocks that did not work. probably because there is more oil in the shock body than the front ones and it created hydro-lock.

you can "dab out" some oil onto a rag or paper towel so you get more inbound movement(don't pull out the bladder from the cap once you have it seated), I usually leave about 1/4 to 1/8 of an inch of hydro-lock space from the bottom of the shock body to the top of the shock eyelet threads. do you use associated's green slime grease on your spacers and o-rings? also to get nice smooth rebound, unobtanium "gold" coated shock shafts help too.

Good question.
I have (T4.1) one rear shock with no middle ground for some reason. If I leave enough fluid in it to give me the push back, it locks about 1/8th of an inch out on compression. If I bleed it out just a speck more it won't push back.

I've been putting bladders in AE shocks since the late 80's. Only way to go. I don't know why they took so long to do it themselves. As for building them even, it's kinda something you just have to learn from experience. Either that or drill a hole in the cap to eliminate any rebound.

So are you saying that rebound is not necessary? The guys at the track are telling me that there should be 1/4 inch or so.

Have you guys tried to run them without any push back? They are so much smoother in operation and dont leak anywhere near as much. Also try putting kyosho xring seals in them. Let the springs do the work for you. The shock should have no push back if built correctly. They work better and last longer this way. You will have to rebuild them or fill them no where near as often. Have you ever watched Cavaleri or Mayfield do there shocks? ;)

V2 shocks are designed to have no or almost no rebound (push back) they are still an emulsion shock however. Rebound=leaks. V2+bleeder caps=heaven. After 20+ years AE has a nice shock.

that's what I was thinking, following Associated's directions would have no rebound, and over the years I was taught to have rebound (Big Vic) . I would think they would be more consistent if there was no rebound.