lipos fitting e-revo
#16
Tech Master
iTrader: (119)
Those poly lipos you have are among the best. They are real good and should last you many, many cycles. As for running 5s (2sx3s), there is nothing wrong with that as long as you have the same spec lipo in every way except one is a 2s and one is a 3s. 5s is the sweet spot which I highly recommend. I have 20+ lipos rating from Hyperions to Turnigys and run 5s setups in all of my rides. (see my signature). 4s is fun but you will quickly get used to it and want more. 6s is fast but real hard on the drive train and more parts to break. If I were you, I would buy 2 cell and 2 3 cell with the same specs. That way you can run a 4s, 5s, and 6s setups and have enough for 2 bash sessions. It really is the way to go. My wife drives the erbe now and 4s was to slow for her so we stepped up to a 5s setup and it's perfect. And she's a women. Anyways if you need to trim the battery door it is very easy to do. You just trim one side where the wires come out and your done. Doesn't affect the truck at all and it gives you more options for lipos. I understand you paid a lot for it and don't want to modify it but that is what rc is all about. Give it some time and you will be modifying and upgrading like crazy. Especially on the erevo cause it takes a little bit to make it bash worthy.
Here is a picture of what i am doing to all my lipos now. I didn't like the huge 8g wire that came on the Turnigy's so I took the packs apart and soldered on new 10g wire. I also made the wire come straight out of the pack so now I can run a 3 cell and not have to notch the battery door. I also went with 6mm bullets for all my stuff. Traxxas and Deans became a real pain so bullets make it a lot easier as well as 200+ amp capable vs like a 100 for traxxas/deans. I also put more padding and protective plastic in the lipos so they can with stand the hard landings/crashes. You will love the erbe and have many fun days ahead of you.
Here is my revo 3.3 converted to electric.
Here is a picture of what i am doing to all my lipos now. I didn't like the huge 8g wire that came on the Turnigy's so I took the packs apart and soldered on new 10g wire. I also made the wire come straight out of the pack so now I can run a 3 cell and not have to notch the battery door. I also went with 6mm bullets for all my stuff. Traxxas and Deans became a real pain so bullets make it a lot easier as well as 200+ amp capable vs like a 100 for traxxas/deans. I also put more padding and protective plastic in the lipos so they can with stand the hard landings/crashes. You will love the erbe and have many fun days ahead of you.
Here is my revo 3.3 converted to electric.
#17
Tech Elite
iTrader: (85)
Yea, you'll have to trim those doors. Yes...it sucks cutting ur a $800 truck. But sadly it must be done. But I had to do it on the mini and the big boy. It has to be done, unless you want to change the wires on your lipo like suggested above. Im still scared to soilder lipos or tear them out of the packaging. If the day comes you have lipos that fit you can replace the doors for a couple of bucks. You could always sell the 3s packs if they dont fit, but they will fit much better after you trim those doors. If you dont have a Dremel. Go to Wal Mart and you can pick up a cordless 4.8v dremmel and a nice box of assorted heads and a package of cutting wheels for $23 for everything. Thats what I bought forever ago and works fine still. Comes with a few different grinding bits, cuttting wheels, and even buffers your wife can use for jewlery! It one of the best tools Ive bought for RC. I don't know how I made it as long as I did without one. Soildering iron is a hobbiest freind aswell. You need these! Also can be bought for $5-$10 for a cheap one that seems to get the job done.
#18
Tech Lord
iTrader: (21)
I run a 5S combo in my FLux for the same reasons, 6S is too much and really wears the drive train - drive cups about every 2nd run and dogbones start getting twisted too. Don't see any of that with 5S. ERBE and Flux share the CC2200 combo so its not surprising. As long as you get the lipos with the same mah and C rating, you can run 2S and 3S together.
#19
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
yah that is exactly what needs to happen to the lipos I purchased b/c the size of the actual battery will fit...but the way the cords come out extend the dimension more creating the overly tight fit. I'm not sure I feel comfortable enough taking the lipos apart but if the cords were moved to not protrude from the side as much as they do would be perfect.
#20
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
anyone interested in buying my two 3s lipos 5000mah 20c? They have never been used.
#21
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
holy out of control!!! I had pretty high expectations for it but after running it for my first time with lipos I'm blown away!!! I do agree with the ppl who said 6s is almost too much-esp for a beginner...with that said I'm looking to invest in some 2s lipos and think 4s will do very well. It was almost too hard to control and never was able to see it top end. I now have to find some 2s that will be compatible with the 3s i already have in the event i want to go 5s.
#23
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
I found some lipos that I'm looking for. I currently have two 3s Turnigys 5000mah 20C and was told if running 5s to make sure all the specs are the same. I found two sets of two 2s 5000mah 20C however they are not Turnigys. One set of two is Zippy and the other set of two Zippy Flightmax Hardcase-relatively very close in price. Two questions-what one would be better to go with and should I go with either since neither are Turnigys?
#25
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
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#26
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
ya I was actually able to locate the same brand too-on the website you sent me before of which are great prices....realized I got screwed on the ones i got first from those prices.
have a tire/rim question. I'm considering getting beadlocks for my ERBE and was wondering if you have any experience/suggestions with this idea regarding brand, do's/don'ts & good all around tires?
Also I am having a hard time keeping the front of my revo down. Have yet to be able to fully open the throttle b/c I'm scared the front will grab wind. Is there any suggestions to add weight or something to the front to help balance it better?
have a tire/rim question. I'm considering getting beadlocks for my ERBE and was wondering if you have any experience/suggestions with this idea regarding brand, do's/don'ts & good all around tires?
Also I am having a hard time keeping the front of my revo down. Have yet to be able to fully open the throttle b/c I'm scared the front will grab wind. Is there any suggestions to add weight or something to the front to help balance it better?
#27
Tech Lord
iTrader: (21)
I don't have any real experience with beadlocks, so I can't help much there.
Run with your batteries as far forward as possible. I know the boxes tape toward each end, but move them as far forward as possible. Any movement will help some. Other than that, you'll learn with some time to roll the throttle on a little more gradually and this won't be such an issue. If you can't wait, you can dial in some punch control on the esc to help tame it down a bit.
Run with your batteries as far forward as possible. I know the boxes tape toward each end, but move them as far forward as possible. Any movement will help some. Other than that, you'll learn with some time to roll the throttle on a little more gradually and this won't be such an issue. If you can't wait, you can dial in some punch control on the esc to help tame it down a bit.
#28
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
Ya I wasn't sure if it was really necessary but was hoping to possibly eliminate the headache with gluing tires if beadlocks would take care of it.
I don't think I have pushed them as far forward as possible but will be sure to next time. That's the thing though-I have been very gradual with the throttle roll and still looks like the front is going to lift-doesn't help with the factory tires expanding to discs from the centrifugal force. Might have to look into the punch control.
I don't think I have pushed them as far forward as possible but will be sure to next time. That's the thing though-I have been very gradual with the throttle roll and still looks like the front is going to lift-doesn't help with the factory tires expanding to discs from the centrifugal force. Might have to look into the punch control.
#29
Tech Lord
iTrader: (21)
You can do a good gluing job and from what I've seen they're pretty good with these high power rigs. The key is to do the needed prep, sand the bead area, clean both tire bead and bead area on the wheel and use a good glue. Use some tape (package strapping tape or gorilla tape) on the inner side of the tire to keep it from expanding will help a ton too.
From what I've read beadlocks have probs of their own as far as getting them right, but that might not be the right impression. Punch control doesn't hurt speed, it just dials down the accel. Guys having slipper probs find it useful.
From what I've read beadlocks have probs of their own as far as getting them right, but that might not be the right impression. Punch control doesn't hurt speed, it just dials down the accel. Guys having slipper probs find it useful.
#30
Tech Initiate
Thread Starter
ya...these tires are the factory ones so will be sure to do a good prep job when I get my own and put them together. I was researching about tapping the tires and feel that will be extremely advantageous for my problem. Do you have any experience for tires. I am considering the ProLine Bow-Tie 40 series or ProLine Badlands?
I know some ppl hate and others love beadlocks so will have to do a little more research before committing to them. I see-definitely something I should look into.
I know some ppl hate and others love beadlocks so will have to do a little more research before committing to them. I see-definitely something I should look into.