What size pinion should I start with when running a Tekin Redline 6.5T?

18-20, but you'll likely go up. With the cooler temps, I'm running a 23 with my 7.5.

This is just the question that I was about to ask. I'm running a new fantom ion v.4 6.5 turn motor. It's ridiculously fast and my temps seem to be almost out of control. This is my first time really running any mod motor other than for drifting. What are typical temps suppose to be around for a very high grip track. My local track is carpet and I typically run carpet the majority of the time. There is also another carpet track and 2 other dirt tracks. Are my temps high because of the amount of traction? I'm currently running a 17/81 with an avid triad slipper.

Any help is awesome, thanks.

How can we help if you don't provide us what your motor temp is coming off the track at? Your gearing sounds fine for a 6.5... I run 20/81 on my 6.5, and could go more.

Sorry, I'm up around 150 about 4 minutes into (17t pinion). The basic rule of thumb that I was told is if the motor is cool and the speedo is hot then gear up, and vice versa. So I tried all of the combinations all up to a 22 tooth pinion. I'm running a speed passion reventon pro as the speedo.

Ok your motor temp sounds fine. My next advice would be to check your motor temp after 8 or 10 minutes. Then again about 12-15 minutes. If you're staying under 160 all the time you should be good.

You also want to gear for what will put down your best lap times on the track, and obviously not having thermal issues. More speed isn't always necessary.

Tell us more about the motor you are running, what brand, where is teh timing set on the motor, how old is the motor......


We have been running Thunder Power motors and we can run a 5200 mah pack down to cut off and the motor will come off about 160*.

You guys should be running the 84t spurs with a 6.5 motor. For temps, the rule of thumb is to keep them equal to, or below 160 at the conclusion of your main. My mains are 8 min, so I gear for such. I don't see 160 until the 10 min mark.

Also, check temps at race pace, not just bashing around the track.

Anyone???

shock mounts, not sure. Wheel nuts are 11/32

Link will help you.... http://lmgtfy.com/?q=team+associated+b44.1+manual

Seriously though 8-32 wheel nuts and 4-40 shock nuts.

Thanks guys.

does anyone know what kyosho springs i should run on my b44. using kyosho velvet springs.

Hey guys... I'm thinking about to buy a B44.1 Factory Team because the prices are down after the B44.2 was announced.

I have always driven 1:8 and there was no ball diffs and so I'm a little bit scared about the ball diffs in the B44.1. Can anybody tell me how are the durability of the ball diffs in the B44.1 ?

If I need all few weeks replace or adjust it, I'll buy a more expensive DEX, but I hope I can go with the B44.1. I'm just a hobby-driver and 99% on carpet tracks. A lot of grip on carpet maybe also a problem for the ball diffs.

Thanks for the help

Peter

The balls diffs themselves are not an issue on the B44/B44.1. The plastic gears tend to be the weak link if the diffs are not shimmed properly. When the diffs are shimmed properly, everything holds up quite well. Follow the manual precisely with the shimming recommendations and keep your slipper adjusted properly and you'll have no problems. However, as soon as the diffs develop to much side to side play in the transmission cases, those plastic gears will shred themselves in short order. After the first several races the diffs can develop some side to side play in the transmission cases and thus you have to get in there an add a shim or two when necessary. After the 2nd shimming the buggy should be good to go for quite a while. A super tight slipper can also shred a rear diff. I like the gear diffs personally because they can be adjusted in just a few minutes on the car as opposed to disassembling and changing fluids with gear diffs.

I have run mine with zero problems for a couple months now. and i have not had to even shim the transmission. so i agree with above. shim it right to start and you should be good for a while. i am seeing on the thread a shim of 6/3 is the recommended.

I'm sorry, but I have to correct a statement here. DO NOT follow the B44.1 manual for shimming the diff gear; IT IS STILL INCORRECT. Just use the 44.2 manual, as they finally updated the correct shimming methods (6/3 or even 6/4). If it feels a little tight, run a pack or two through it on the bench, it'll break in and loosen up fine.

+1

I actually bought aluminum diff gears because they were stripping like crazy. Well guess what? They stripped too because I had the shims according to the manual.
Once I added more shims to a point where there was no side-by-side play, haven't stripped them since! Wasted money on aftermarket diffs that didn't solve the problem...

To be honest I never shimmed more, ever. I always shimmed whatever the manual said. Then I broke in the entire drivetrain on the bench. Then ALWAYS!!! Make sure your slipper isn't too tight. This is actually the most common way to strip the gears. Landing on power with a slipper that's too tight will skip a gear immediately!

I too am running the original amount of diff shims. Most of the gear stripping issue seems to have been caused...for my car atleast...too tight of a slipper setting. The stock AE v2 slipper has a hard time dealing with a large amount of HP. I run an LRP 7.5 in my car and roasted two sets if rear gears because I tightened the slipper too much. I switched to the Avid Triad Slipper and haven't stripped any more gears. The Triad in my car isn't slipping during normal acceleration but DOES slip when the car hooks hence preventing shock to the drivetrain. At WCRC here in SoCal, there is a ton of grip so I can hear my slipper in certain sections of the track.

JG

I've yet to ruin a rear gear, and the car has been going for almost a year. I just shim it so that it's tight against the pinion. I've noticed a bit of variation between gears, so the number and placement of the shims varries. It probably helps that I'm running an Orion motor as well. Very smooth, but it doesn't have the explosive bottom end many others have.

p.s. I agree that a proper slipper setting is critical.

My apologies for the mis-information, you are correct. I bought my kit used and ran only two packs through it before I shredded the rear diff. When I pulled it apart, it explains why I found only 4 shims on the gear side of the diff. I downloaded the B44.1 manual from the Team Associated site when I went to rebuild it and it correctly lists 6 shims on the gear side of the diff. I didn't realize the old printed manuals were incorrect. The previous owner also had the slipper nearly locked. The combination of the two was a death sentence for my rear diff :eek:.

I've run my B44.1 for a full month of weekly racing and it's been rock solid since I rebuilt and re-shimmed the diff correctly as well as setting the slipper correctly :D

can someone help with shock set up. i just picked up a set of v2 shocks and losi big bores for my b44. any suggestions?

With v2's stick to 35/30 oil fr/rr. What color Losi springs do you have now?

I ran 35/30 with Green/Pink springs, yellow rears seemed too light for me.

Red front and white rear

Hey guys,

I ran my buggy on a layout that had pretty big jumps and would chassis slap. This would completely upset the the car and I would lose control. (Obviously)

Should I raise the ride height? Go up in oil?

Unfortunately the jumps are so big and spaced out that im unable to hit the downside which usually the answer.

Any tips would be appreciated.

I have Big bores on v2 shocks with 35/30

Thanks!

Here's my trick
 

I run on a 1/8 scale Track With some pretty big jumps sometimes and I run a 6.5 mine but the trick with the chassis slap is to Cut out some Rug anti-slip Foam material Or the material that is used for the kitchen table mats Cutting out a little bit smaller than the chassis size and use the under tray I have no chassis slap my carbon fiber is not scuffed and scratched and screws are not filled with dirt

I don't think his goal is to only eliminate the chassis slap noise, but rather than landing capability of the car itself ;)

When I've ran on some layouts with extraordinary jumps (not layouts I usually run), I'll be certain to take any rear weight out; no ballast weight or other weight between the battery cells. Also raise the ride height 1mm on each end, so that would generally be 22 front 21 rear, as well as go a step up in spring rate (this is key), at least for the rear. Oils 35 front should still be fine (don't be afraid to try 37.5 though, it can work well too) and I'd come up to 32.5 in the rear.

I run an undertray but still having issues. Its an 1/8 and 1/10 scale layout if that makes any sense. The bigger jumps are where I have the problem.

Im going to freshen the oils up and run 35/30 to see if thats a simple easy fix. Maybe big bores from ae might help as well.

Yes Rigor you understood my point. I never thought. about taking the ballast out ill have to try that. Thank you.

Yeah taking that weight out is a must if you have large jumps. I cracked a plastic rear chassis brace and rear gearbox from having too much weight in the rear, large jumps, and learning how to drive the car at the time haha. I've come a long way since then :tire:

B44 or B44.1 Gearing for 17.5
 

Hey guys did a search for this but came up empty handed. I have a B44 and a B44.1. Currently I run a 7.5 in the 44.1 and a 7 turn in the b44. I have a tekin 17.5 I just wanted to try it. But don't have a clue to what gearing to run. Any help would be appreciated Thanks.

Was going to link you to Genova's 2012 ROAR 17.5 4wd buggy winning setup sheet , only to realize they are not listing the gearing for whatever reason :(

Maybe try something similar to stock 2wd buggy gearing and check temps after 5 minutes ? Lotta guys run something in the neighborhood of 72/33.

Quick pic of my 44.1, powder coated Ali chassis and white wiring etc

http://i783.photobucket.com/albums/y...6EAC00AFC4.jpg

Very nice and clean! :tire:

What wheels are those ?

Wheels, my guess..durango


The white wire looks cool.

Thanks guys, yes pleased with the ways its turned out.

The wheels are durango ones (original hex front/pin rear) and the ali is from a guy on oople called Tony Parr was only £20.00

Has anyone figured out how to put a vts slipper on a b44.1? I am guessing it is because the extra hardware is too thick?

Pretty certain you cannot fit the VTS due the longer length of the assembly. But you can get the Avid Triad slipper, which fits and achieves the exact same thing.